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Old 10-08-2009   #1 (permalink)
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Default 1968 Mustang Oil Pan/Drain Plug Problem

Well it seems it's just one problem after another with my car

So I went to change my oil today, unscrewed the drain plug, replaced the filter, and when I went to put the drain plug back on, it wouldn't tighten! The plug itself looked fine, but from what I could see, it looks like the threads in the pan might be stripped It screws in enough to seal fairly well, though it looks like oil can still leak out a little bit. I haven't put new oil in yet, so it's pretty much empty. A new pan will cost about $50.

My question is twofold: is there a temporary fix for this problem, at least enough to get me to a shop or something? Also, how involved is replacing the oil pan? It looks like I might have to take the engine out... and I don't have the means for that (thus needing to get to a shop). I don't know how much a shop would charge for something like this either. Thanks in advance!
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Old 10-08-2009   #2 (permalink)
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There are 2 ways to easily 'fix' a stripped oil drain plug.

One is a rubber stopper. It comes with a small plastic rod used to push the over size rubber plug into the pan hole.

The other is a self tapping drain plug. They come in oversize and double oversize.....if you strip it more than once!

Both work very well and can be considered permanent.
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Old 10-08-2009   #3 (permalink)
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Alright, thanks! Sounds much more reasonable than replacing the pan After poking around online, it sounds like this is a somewhat common problem/fix, but some people have had bad luck with self-tapping drain plugs... Can anyone else vouch for or against them? I'll be checking at the local auto parts store for a self-tapping plug tomorrow. Thanks again!
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Old 10-09-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Well it turns out the drain plug that was in there was already a self-tapping one, so I got a double oversize. But I can't get the new one started! It just keeps slipping. I tried a socket, but it's too deep, and doesn't allow the gasket to fit around the plug either. Any tips for putting in the new plug? Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2009   #5 (permalink)
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Hmmm...the plug head is going too far into the socket to put pressure on the threads to get them started?
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Old 10-09-2009   #6 (permalink)
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stuff some paper or some other substance into the socket to take up the extra space so the bolt bottoms out in the socket. Maybe that will help.
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Old 10-09-2009   #7 (permalink)
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Put as many nuts into the socket as it takes to make it so you can put a lot of pressure on the self tapping plug to get it about 3 turns in - then it should go all the way in without a problem.
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Old 10-10-2009   #8 (permalink)
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Well I have it squared away for now, it seems. I tried to get my hands on a rubber plug, but the auto parts store didn't have any. The guy gave me a single oversize plug, and that fit a bit better than the original, though it still doesn't tighten all the way. It doesn't seem to be leaking, but I'll be checking in the morning to be sure.
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Old 10-12-2009   #9 (permalink)
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So I put a paper cup under the drain plug and after 24 hours, there was only maybe 5 drops in it. After two days, maybe a dozen, if that. So it looks like I'll be able to squeak by for a while.

Next oil change, should I try to fit the double oversize plug in? Or just go for a new oil pan? And if I do a new oil pan, does that require taking out the engine? Thanks again, everyone.
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Old 10-12-2009   #10 (permalink)
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You should have to remove the starter, crossmember, and maybe center link, but that is all. Oil pan should come right out after that.
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Old 10-12-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Ah, okay. I don't really know what that stuff is, besides the starter, but I'll tackle that when I change my oil next Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2009   #12 (permalink)
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If you don't have a manual for the car, get one. Even if its a Haynes manual from your local parts store. It will familiarize you with the car and names of parts.
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Last edited by sixtsixstang; 10-12-2009 at 07:11 PM. Reason: bad spelling
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