I've got a 66 coupe that was painted a couple owner's back (emberglo). The paint has a nice shine but seems to have been a rush job as there is rust bubbles comping out in corners of door and while the filler around the rear glass is holding up it's not the best job. Question - one of the bubbles has cracked open and I can barely see rust inside. The car stays parked inside garage and doesn't roll on wet surfaces. Could I put a dab of clear nail polish into the crack to prolong the inevitable?
In my experience with paint and rust, if you see the rust under the paint, it's already started and will contunue with any moisture. You need to sand it down and get rid of the rust and primer, seal, and repaint that area. I would take it back to whoever did it and make them fix it!
best way to estimate is go to the place you want it done and explain it all to them and let them give you the estimate. Every place will probably be different.
Gease or Oil is a good idea, I've oiled down under carrage parts, some on purpose and other due to slow oil leaks and it does slow things down. Notice the word slow is not to be translated as "stop". Wax will prevent and/or slow rusting in chiped areas, but if the rust is bubbled up under the paint it may be coming from the other side of the sheet metal and must be accessed to be oiled as well. Bubbled up paint may also prevent your oiling from really penetrating the cancer, so you might want to get the bubbled area scaped away. This will leave more of the rust exposed which is ugly, but you need to expose it so that the oil can be applied. If I had a car in storage that had rust issue - it would get coated with a heavy motor oil and or gear grease (the rusted areas, not the entire car). Oiling the rust will have to been done religiously if your car sees any weather.
Your repair estimate will depend on your level of expectations.
"I just want the rust spot fixed and the paint closely matched" -$100
"I need the door stripped down, guts removed, interior coated, ecthe primed, filler primed, base coat, clear coated, reassembled, & the surrounding body panels to be fade matched" - $1000
See what I mean? Call some local body shops and tell them what you think you want and go from there.
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Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
It wont be anywhere near 300 dollars considering the crap ive went through with bodywork. Seriously, it would have taken 350 dollars to take out 2 dents. I cant imagine what rust and metal replacement would cost, but it really depends on the area. My guess is 500 bucks for a bs job, but it may be better than it is now and maybe the paint isn't worth dumping a serieus load of cash? All depends on what you want to do.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.
You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
Thanks guys. I know this is simply a band-aid, but body work will have to wait. If I access the interior of door and coat with oil, won't that give the interior a pretty strong oil/grease smell. Any experience with this Sick467?
PBLA, yes if the substance (oil) you are putting on the rust smells then your car will also smell. However, for example, WD-40 kinda smells good - differential grease smells BAD BAD BAD. If you can access the doors interior, you might try 10$ worth of a Rustoleum (oil based) product. Try to follow the cans directions as best you can and remember - what ever you treat the scaley rust with will have to be removed later when the job is done. Oil is hard to get from nooks and crannies and brushed on paint is hard to strip or scrape from the interior of a door. Oil will contaiminate the future paint job if not removed properly and rust under brushed on paint that has not been removed WILL resurface.
If your looking for a simple and temporary SLOWING of the rust - use some WD-40 like spray oil on the interior of the door every month or so, work some motor oil or bearing grease around the exterior rust periodically. It's easy to tell when the oil has dried up or washed off because the rust will return to looking dry and lighter in color. Oil rust looks dark and wet. When you get around to repairing the rust - the WD-40 will rinse from the interior of the door easily with some solvent and a spray bottle and can be blown dry with an air gun. The heaverir oil or grease on the exterior rust will be easy to get to with grinders, wire wheels, sanders, etc.
Theres only one way to do it right, but slowing it down until then may mean saving the door or rocker or whatever the rust is attacking.
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
If I were you, I would get a dremmel tool, sand down the spot your talking about, get one of those airbrush guns and spray it your self. There are all kinds of how to articles online that can show you how to do this. And you can gain the experience.
Hello. Nail polish is just cheap car paint that's been re-packaged and had the price per unit volume jacked through the roof. If acrylic enamel paint won't fix it, neither will acrylic enamel nail polish.
I took some of my favorite shade of nail polish, thinned it down and painted a small piece of sheet metal with it, took that to a PPG distributor and had them mix me up a quart of it several years ago, and I haven't really even knocked a dent in that yet. I quit buying nail polsh a long time ago. I just go out in the garage and look through the colors of paint that I have sitting around, mix a little bit of hardener in with it, and I'm good to go.
The best thing to do with the rust is to remove it and repaint.
Veronica that's funny, I'm picturing a vanity with little nail polish bottles each having a piece of masking tape with hand-written labels such as "Rangoon Red", "Ivy Green", "Raven Black", and "Sapphire Blue"!
If you can't have this work done immediately, at least scrape all the rust/paint bubbles off, and sand off all the rust you can see. Hit it with some acid cleaner, then hit it with some primer, even if it's just rattle can. If you dont want nasty overspray, tape the area off, with an inch or so overlap on to the non-rusty area.
This way you will have an ugly primer spot on the car, but you won't have the area spreading while you wait to have the time/money to get it fixed right. Plan on spending $400-$500 to have the rusty areas fixed correctly, as it's not a 10 minute job, and a good body guy gets paid well for a reason. Pay a hack to do it cheap, and you will end up where you are now again in about 2 years.
Don't laugh, but will nail polish slow rusting? 
Nail polish is just cheap car paint that's been re-packaged and had the price per unit volume jacked through the roof. If acrylic enamel paint won't fix it, neither will acrylic enamel nail polish. 
Veronica that's funny, I'm picturing a vanity with little nail polish bottles each having a piece of masking tape with hand-written labels such as "Rangoon Red", "Ivy Green", "Raven Black", and "Sapphire Blue"!
