Has anyone out there removed the rear springs off a '66? The rear eyes are easy, but the front eyes on both sides are a pain. The bolts on each side turn with diffuculty and because the nuts are on the outside, there is little room for access to knock them out. Any ideas would be more than appreciated! Thanks.
Bill
'66 Fastback, Ford Racing 351W, 392CI, T-5 World Class, SSB front power discs, Aqua w/ Aqua/White Pony interior.
Lube them up real well, let them sit for a while and try again. Sometimes those things will sieze together after 40 some odd years and will have to be cut off.
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1966 Mustang Coupe. Mica Merlot with black stripes, Deluxe interior, 302 4V, 4-speed toploader, 3:70 9" rear end.
2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Gremlin taking up residence in the idler pulley. I'll finish this one when I'm done with the other one.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, draglink bars, hedman headers
Coming soon - disc brakes, electronic ignition and a whole host of other stuff I forgot to mention. The list goes on and on. Basically, it's my new toy
My 67 gave me fits too. You can get them started out by using...
Fully Threaded Bolt
Nut
Washer
Stub of pipe
And a board
1.) Put the board (1x4 - or whatever) against the inside of the rocker.
2.) Measure the distance from the board to the end of your spring bolt. ( I assume you have the nut off already - otherwise this trick won't' work).
3.) Find a bolt the same diameter as the spring bolt that is slightly shorter than the measurment you just took (1/4 inch or so).
4.) Thread the nut on all the way, put the washer on and cut a piece of schedule 40 or similar pipe to go from the washer to the end of your new tool bolt.
5.) Now, you should have a bolt with nut threaded all the way to the head, next is a heavy washer, and the the piece of pipe. Put the head of your new tool against the end of the spring bolt and the other end against your board. (a helper is a real plus here)
6.) With one wrench on the head of your tool bolt and another wrench on the new tool nut - start removining the nut. This will push the pipe stub firmly against your board and have nowhere to go thus pushing the spring bolt out. The board is to protect inner rocker, so if it starts to crush or fragment, go to a harder board like oak.
If you can't get your new tool to stay on the spring bolt try a similar piece of all-thread instread of the botl with double nuts on the head end, but with the outer nut only partiall on.
It's hard to explain this stuff without hand jestures, hope this at least gives you some ideas.
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Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
Many thanks to each of you with your ideas! I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one out there who has experienced this problem. I'll let you know how it turns out. My idea, which I haven't tried yet, was using a "C" clamp, but I don't think it will align properly.
If you use the c clamp against the bolt, don't mushroom the threads otherwise you'll have a hell of a time getting the bolt to slide through the sounds-to-be-seized metal sleeve that's inside the bushing.
Good luck though with whatever method you try.
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2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Gremlin taking up residence in the idler pulley. I'll finish this one when I'm done with the other one.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, draglink bars, hedman headers
Coming soon - disc brakes, electronic ignition and a whole host of other stuff I forgot to mention. The list goes on and on. Basically, it's my new toy
1966 Mustang Rear Spring Removal-Help! 
