[kelal9698]

Im planning on putting the 8.8 in my 67 fastback.Ive heard different year mustangs as donars and explorers.What the best year to get I want the rear disk setup. Also does anyone sell the spring perches to weld on thanks

[429ragtop]

Why would you put a 8.8 in instead of a 9 inch? I dont think you will find one that will fit a 67 without alot of work.

[v8only]

because the 9" rears are getting rare, and are WAY too expensive.

Both the mustang and the explorer rears come out to be the exact same width as the old 8" that you currently have...

both have +'s and -

the mustang rear has a centered pumkin, and trak lok, but typically comes with 2.73 gears unless you can find an 87/88 turbocoupe tbird rear, which come with 3.73 or 3.55. The mustang rear is only 28 spline and has 4 lug drum brakes. If you convert to disc with the mustang rear, you'll need the north star or something like that brackets. Or convert to 5 lug ranger drum brakes

the explorer rear has 31 spline rear and trak lok, and comes with better gears, but is heavier and has an offset pumpkin. If you're stock ride height, then no big deal. some people who are lowered have claimed the driveshaft can bang on the tunnel on bumps.

summit racing sells perches

myself, I'm going with a 3.73 mustang rear, but I already have it. I'd prefer the centered pumpkin. I can always upgrade to the center chunk 31 spline explorer carrier in the mustang housing later if I wanted..however most of my friends run stock mustang 8.8's with 400+ horse power on slicks all day long without issues.

[andrewmp6]

The downside is it has c clips make a lot of power you'll break them.The explorer is a off center diff so if your car is lowered your rear end could hit the floor pan if it bottoms out.If you can afford a fastback a crate 9 inch isn't much.I would stick with a 8 inch you got one build it up.

[Dave]

Isn't the rear end on a '67' off-centered also?
Dave

[v8only]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

The downside is it has c clips make a lot of power you'll break them.The explorer is a off center diff so if your car is lowered your rear end could hit the floor pan if it bottoms out.If you can afford a fastback a crate 9 inch isn't much.I would stick with a 8 inch you got one build it up.

Last time I checked, a good rear from currie cost $2500.

I don't know about you, but I don't have that kind of cash.

a mustang/explorer rear costs $150 or LESS all day long.

you're not going to break those c clips. I've been in the fox mustang world for 15 years now, and to the track all of the time...I've never known anyone to break a c clip.

additionally, a stock 8.8 from a mustang will handle 400 flywheel hp all day long on slicks.

our beloved 60's mustangs have 150 from the factory. Likely less than 10% of us even have 300 flywheel around here.

the 8.8 makes the perfect rear.

that explorer 31 spline will handle more hp bone stock than all that 1% of the population here will ever need, all for $150 including disc brakes

[Tydeorum]

So what years do we look for when it come to the explorer rear ends?

[v8only]

95 I "believe" was the first year for disc brakes...95-01

most, but not all came with trak lok, so be sure to verify trak lok and gear ratio at the yard before removing and plunking down cash for it.

[Dave]

Yep, '95' and up have the disc brakes. I've always used car-part.com to find the best buy in my area. Lots doing the V-8 into a Ranger are using the Explorer rear ends.
Dave
Explorer
Code
Description
Capacity
Ratio
41
Open 8.8"
3200
3.27

43
Open 8.8"
3200
3.08

44
Open 8.8"
3200
3.73

45
Open 8.8"
3200
3.55

D1
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.27

D2
L/S 8.8"
3200
4.10

D4
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73

D5
L/S 8.8"
3200
3.73
L - Limited Slip Differential C - Conventional Differential

[Tydeorum]

What do you have to do to install in a 67 coupe? Is it just welding new spring perches or a lot more?

[fonzoayala88]

if u use the rear end out of a mustang, u have to cut off the lower control arm mounts, and then weld the spring perches on. ive read its smart to weld the axle housings to the center piece, cuz for only plug welded them on. i have a 8.8 in my 5.0 lx, ive been wanting to put it in my 65, i want lsd, the full locking richmond dif in my 8 "acts kinda crazy some times. but i dont want to paralize my 87 either.

[v8only]

Originally Posted by Tydeorum

What do you have to do to install in a 67 coupe? Is it just welding new spring perches or a lot more?

that's mostly it.

go to the carcraft site..they did it for a 67 and have an article for it, giving all the dimensions and everything

[Sick467]

Some things to concider...

1.) Spring Perch location and angle (been discussed)
2.) Overall width, my 8.8 from a 2003 explorer is about a 1/2" wider than stock. Not too big of a deal unless you already maxed out your tire/wheel sizes.
3.) The disk brake set-up may require a different master cylinder to accomodate the different volume of brake fluid required to fully actuate the rear brakes. And/Or a proportioning valve to adjust/balance your front to back brakes.
4.) If you have your car lowered, the offset pumpkin will likely cause the diff yoke/driveshaft to hit the passenger side tunnel under the back seat at least at the bumps in the road. This can be fixed with a hammer if you don't mind.
5.) The rear drive shaft yoke may have to be changed, but I'm not sure about this - my drive shaft is still in the shed and I plan on going to an AOD so I'll have to check both of my yokes.
6.) Your rear wheels will need to clear the new disc set-up. 14s won't unless your backspacing is near nil which is highly unlikely.
7) The shock plates and U-bolts will have to be changed to accomodate the difference in axel tube diameter. My 8.8 was 3.25 inches where the stock 4 lugger was 3. Currie carries these.

That's about it.

[429ragtop]

Originally Posted by Sick467

Some things to concider...

1.) Spring Perch location and angle (been discussed)
2.) Overall width, my 8.8 from a 2003 explorer is about a 1/2" wider than stock. Not too big of a deal unless you already maxed out your tire/wheel sizes.
3.) The disk brake set-up may require a different master cylinder to accomodate the different volume of brake fluid required to fully actuate the rear brakes. And/Or a proportioning valve to adjust/balance your front to back brakes.
4.) If you have your car lowered, the offset pumpkin will likely cause the diff yoke/driveshaft to hit the passenger side tunnel under the back seat at least at the bumps in the road. This can be fixed with a hammer if you don't mind.
5.) The rear drive shaft yoke may have to be changed, but I'm not sure about this - my drive shaft is still in the shed and I plan on going to an AOD so I'll have to check both of my yokes.
6.) Your rear wheels will need to clear the new disc set-up. 14s won't unless your backspacing is near nil which is highly unlikely.
7) The shock plates and U-bolts will have to be changed to accomodate the difference in axel tube diameter. My 8.8 was 3.25 inches where the stock 4 lugger was 3. Currie carries these.

That's about it.

and all this brings me back to my original question, get the nine inch and do a disc conversion. they are not hard to find, why go through all the hassle?

[Sick467]

There's pros and cons with both options. I've read discussions that argue which one is better and technically - I can't go there. I came to the conclusion that they are equivilent for my application (actually overkill for a 300 hp 289 or 302). An 8" comes a dime a dozen, but cost almost as much as a 9" to rebuild. In my case a 9" was not readily available and my builder said that the 9" would cost about 300$ more to build plus the cost of buying a core to start with. I paid 1750$ for a completely rebuilt 8.8 with Ford Motorsports 11" disc brakes and braided stainless brake lines. There was some hassle in finding the right shock plates, I'm not lowering the rear, and I haven't determined my wheel & tire size yet, but I traded this for the hassle of finding a 9" core for a good price. And there are alot of 9" varieties out there that pose the same questions like perch locactions, overall width, etc.

8.8s aren't for everyone, but it fits my bill.