turn signals not working 1967 Mustang

Mstngfnatc21 · 10-14-2009

My car sat most of the summer while i was underway. The turn signals worked fine before hand and no longer worked when i started driving it again. I have since replaced the turn signal switch and the flashers and they still do not work. The flasher is not getting power when the switch is turned on. Any ideas to what else might be the problem? The hazards work fine.

Veronica · 10-14-2009

Hello.

I think that the first thing I would do is check the fuse. The turn signals are on the 14 amp fuse marked ACCY . The emergency flashers are on a different fuse.

Mstngfnatc21 · 10-16-2009

Finally got a chance to work on the car again today. Checked the fuse, looked good, but change it for a new one anyhow since they are so cheap. There is power across the fuse, but no power is getting to the turn signal switch or flasher. Anything else to check before i rip the wiring harness apart and start tracing wires?

Veronica · 10-17-2009

Hi again.

If power is making it out of the fuse, but not to the flasher, then your problem is somewher between those two. The flasher is upstream from the turn signal switch, as in, power goes to the turn signal switch from the flasher, so, that would eliminate a lot of things to check. Try running power from the fuse directly to the flasher with a jumper wire. If that gets the turn signals working, then you know where the problem must be. Good luck.

Mstngfnatc21 · 10-17-2009

Thanks. I'll give that a try this afternoon.

Mstngfnatc21 · 10-18-2009

I got a chance to do some work yesterday. Ran power directly from the fuse block to the flasher and everything works. For a temporary fix so i can drive i put a wire in from the fuse block to the flasher. Thanks for all the help.

Veronica · 10-18-2009

Hi again.

The jumper wire should be for diagnostic purposes only. The problem is that Ford's wiring is still there. If you have a problem with power not making it to the flasher, but, everything else on that fuse works, then the problem is almost certainly with the wire itself, and there are only a few different problems that an actual wire can have, and they all come down to a short somewhere. If you just bypass it totally, then you still have a live wire with a short in it behind the dash. The short could be contained because the other wires around it are acting like insulation and preventing it from sparking and starting a fire behind the dash, but, it is also possible that the short is not being insulated like that. I would definitely either go ahead and track it down, or, at least, separate that wire from the back of the fuse box so that it doesn't have power on it.