I broke one of these putting it in last night and was wonder if a standard 90 degree grease fitting is all that bad to use? I was getting the second side of the front suspension ready for assembly last night at 9pm and the fitting bottomed out facing the wrong way and "I Broke It" trying to get it right and then cussed because I am now held up by a special puny little grease fitting. At least I got to bed earlier. It doesn't look like you can install the grease sert after the upper control arm is intalled, so here I am looking for another way. The picture shows Mustangs Unlimiteds option for 20$ and a wait for the mail. I got a case of "I want it now"! Tomorrow night is another night in the shop.
Thanks,
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
The longer ones might make it a little easier to get the grease gun on but I manage by pushing on the gun hose while pumping gun against my leg, etc. This is what the fitting that came on my stock replacement arms looks like:
I was lucky that all 4 of mine tightened enough pointing out. One on each side just about touches the inner shock tower but I don't see any paint missing so I guess it doesn't touch enough to rub.
Jon
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'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
That's Good News, Thanks for the reply Jon. I was really hoping to get on with the build tomorrow and I have a seletion of "off the shelf" grease fittings.
BTW, why is there a screw and nut mounted to your control arm. Is it a lock of some sort? Not factory, right?
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
Figured you'd notice that, yes it's an idea I came up with to stop the nut from turning and loosening. Some people weld a plate from the top like on Opentrackers UCA's Opentracker Racing Products - Street Ready Upper Control Arms
but I can't weld so I used what I have - drilled a hole, tapped it, screwed in a SS bolt cut to length, added a SS nylok nut so it can't unscrew.
My nuts had turned (i know, i know) as I had marked them at install, maybe a 1/4 turn over 9mos. so I had to come up with a way to stop this, I don't think there's a lot of torque on them just the flexing of the arm that slowly loosen's them. I'm testing it to see how it works, on another forum some think it'll just wear down the screw or wear the nut until it can turn again so we'll see. Opentracker posted and said he thought it would work just as good as welding the tab or welding the nut but I'd be able to rebuild my arms and those who weld them can't (easily). A cheap experiment for me costing $2.33...
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
I'm new to Mustangs, well I've had mine for a year and I haven't driven it yet, but what do I need to know about those nuts. I just bolted in my control arm assuming that they're set to go. Do I need to tighten it? Watch for loosening? What's the story there?
Thanks,
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
The only instructions I could find were tighten snug then loosen 1/8 turn (~one flat side on nut) that's the best I could find. I have the shop manual and couldn't find it specified in there. The shop manual (<$50 at most mustang suppliers) is a great investment, I look something up in mine at least once/week and write my specs, highlight and write notes in it as my record keeping for me or future owners.
If you're redoing the front suspension I'd seriously consider doing the 1" Shelby/ Arning drop while you're there: Opentracker Racing Products - UCA Drop Template
or DazeCars, Shelby Drop, Klaus Arning drop, upper control arm drop, Falcon, Mustang, Cougar 60-70
Cheap to do and it puts your tires flatter to the road for improved steering, road feel and tire patch contact, just be sure to have it aligned to the specs on those sites. If the alignment shop puts it to stock specs it'll drive like crap so make sure they will align to the specs you supply.
This article has a lot of good beginner info. on mustang suspension strengths, shortcomings and mods: DazeCars, Suspension 101
Jon
__________________
'67 Coupe 289 C4, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
Next to install> stroked 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Great stuff Jon, I will not be bolting up the drivers side suspension tomorrow night, but rather disassembling the passenger side to do the UCA 1" Drop. Thanks for the Heads Up. I guess it turns out that I not only got to bed earlier last night because I broke the grease fitting, BUT I also learned a new trick after all.
Too Cool,
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.