67 conv - adding HP/Torque, negative effects on body/frame?
Hi Folks,
Performed a couple of searches and didn't see this issue addressed.
I have a stock & orig 1967 Conv w/289, 4 spd, and 3.00 gear. Wanted to explore the possibility of swapping in a 87-93 HO 302 w/alum heads & more aggressive cam. Somewhere around 350-375 crank hp/torque.
I have a Chevy friend that says that much HP/Torque may twist the body slightly where the body panels may not line up. Then I have a Ford friend that says the conv's are typically made stronger than coupes. I know these cars are unibody...not frame like a pickup truck or some other cars.
Anyone have experience with conv's and more HP/Torque...WITHOUT modifying the suspension / structure. I want to completely avoid that.
Thanks!
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1967 Mustang Convertible. 289 -4spd. Original
Daily Drivers: G37 coupe & S430
I've heard of cars doing that but usually that have some mad torque to do that. I don't see having 400 or less tweaking the frame or anything like that. It won't hurt if you can beef up some areas like most do anyways.
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1995 Mustang GT-Heavily Modded-Sold 2003 Ford Lightning-Sold 1997 Saleen-5.4 conversion-Sold 2005 Mustang GT-Torch Red-Sold 2003 Mustang Cobra-Oxford White 2003 4Runner V8 Sport Edition 4X4
I've heard of cars doing that but usually that have some mad torque to do that. I don't see having 400 or less tweaking the frame or anything like that. It won't hurt if you can beef up some areas like most do anyways.
thanks for the reply. I'm concerned about the car being 42+ years old and perhaps their strength isn't like the later model stangs. Just don't know.
Though there were Big Blocks in 1967....the 390. Plenty of torque...just don't know how many conv's there were with the 390 and if there were more strengthening.
One thing i want to avoid is having to beef stuff up. The car does have some round bars in the engine compartment that go from the firewall to the front end. see pic:
Convertbles have inner rocker panels that Coupes/Fastbacks don't have. The inner rockers help strengthen the structure due to the lack of a rigid steel roof. I've heard the Dynacorn repro Fastbacks have them too.
Those round rods on your car that run from the firewall to forward of the battery/wash bottle are a homemade add on - not factory. Ford did put similar bars on earyl '65 models, but did not on '67s. If I were you, I'd remove them and install an Export Brace instead. The Export Brace runs from the firewall and connects to both of the shock towers. This piece replaces the stock shock tower brackets you have now, with a one piece bracket. It really makes a difference in stiffening up the front end. A lot of people also install the Monte Carlo Bar. This bar runs across the engine bay forward of the shock towers, and has a loop around the distributer for access. With these changes, I believe you should be OK with a 350hp. Big block cars Ford built also had beefed up shock towers, which may be a good idea for you to look into. I really depends on what you are planning to do with the car. If you have an 8" rearend now, I'd definitely upgrade to a 9" rearend, to handle a that power.
Any more photos of your car?
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
Convertbles have inner rocker panels that Coupes/Fastbacks don't have. The inner rockers help strengthen the structure due to the lack of a rigid steel roof. I've heard the Dynacorn repro Fastbacks have them too.
Those round rods on your car that run from the firewall to forward of the battery/wash bottle are a homemade add on - not factory. Ford did put similar bars on earyl '65 models, but did not on '67s. If I were you, I'd remove them and install an Export Brace instead. The Export Brace runs from the firewall and connects to both of the shock towers. This piece replaces the stock shock tower brackets you have now, with a one piece bracket. It really makes a difference in stiffening up the front end. A lot of people also install the Monte Carlo Bar. This bar runs across the engine bay forward of the shock towers, and has a loop around the distributer for access. With these changes, I believe you should be OK with a 350hp. Big block cars Ford built also had beefed up shock towers, which may be a good idea for you to look into. I really depends on what you are planning to do with the car. If you have an 8" rearend now, I'd definitely upgrade to a 9" rearend, to handle a that power.
Any more photos of your car?
wow, great info....! just what i was looking for, thank you.
The extra braces are definitely doable, i don't mind that. The shock towers, i am not going to replace those with the big block ones. A bit too much work for my taste.
I am not looking for this car to be ultra fast, just a little more power than what the stock 289 produces. With budget in mind and still pondering thought on my friend's advice, 250-300hp may be more in line of what this cruiser should be ----and keeping it looking original. Hence, cast iron heads & mild cam.
I was able to check out the rest of your photos. Great looking car - kinda looks like my car!
Do you know if it's a real GT?
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
I was able to check out the rest of your photos. Great looking car - kinda looks like my car!
Do you know if it's a real GT?
They do look the same, hahaha! red on a stang is awesome!
I don't believe it is a real factory GT b/c the lack of disc fronts, and 4 barrel carb. If anything it was one of those "GT" 's that has been "dealer installed". That's what the previous owner claims. Who knows.
It's a beautiful looking car. I always get honks and thumbs up. More than when I had a brand new corvette. My only complaint would be no "AC"...haha, Georgia is HOT --- and a little more power to go w/the good looks. It is not gutless, but nothing compared to what it could easily have.
Let me ask you something "kinda" related. Do you know how to get the dash/gauge lights to work? I have very little area lit up and i have replaced all the bulbs. Thanks!
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1967 Mustang Convertible. 289 -4spd. Original
Daily Drivers: G37 coupe & S430
The key for a cruiser is the rearend gears IMHO! My engine has an Edelbrock Performer Aluminum Intake, Edelbrock 600 CFM Carburetor, Windsor Jr Heads, roller rockers and a mild cam. I can't say I'm really happy with this set-up. I've had some troubles with the engine making noises it shouldn't and I haven't cured it yet.
Choose your intake and cam based on the power range you will most be operating in. Some intakes give you a more power at higher RPM's - will it be a quarter mile car or cruiser? You've already answered that. For me, I don't like the unsteady RPM at stop lights or in traffic that a performance cam gives.
Looking back at the way I use my car over the last 16 years of ownership, I think I should have built the engine to stock spec's and just put some 3.25 gears in the rear, for some kick around town.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
Are you are a new owner of this car? I was guessing your car was not really a GT, mainly due to the Mustang lettering and Pony emblem on the fenders. These would not be on a factory GT car. It would just have the GT badges.
You can find out for sure what your car's options/original colors/where sold...etc..when new at:
It's called a Marti Report. I got one for my car and I always recommend getting one to anyone that's planning on buying / restoring a '67 and up Mustang.
I know what you mean about A/C. I drove my car to Florida several years back and vowed never to take it back again, without A/C. It can get brutally hot in traffic down there. I found an original A/C system to install in my car and have about 95% of the parts. I just have a few more items to track down, before I can install it.
Are all your dash lights now working?
The dash lights never were that bright when new. I've cleaned/painted the inside of the dash bezel bright white to help reflect light better and have no trouble reading them at night. Many people have replaced the incandescent bulbs with LED's. I never wanted my lights to look too bright or a different color(non stock). Just do a search in the forum for LED dash lights.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
I am the new owner. Had a 1967 coupe about 20 yrs ago, but we couldn't get it to pass California emissions, so we shipped it off the New Jersey to sell (Uncle was a car dealer). Missed the car ever since.
Been looking for something and a 1967 conv became available the next town over due to a divorce sale. Picked it up for a decent deal. Haven't done much to it. New shocks, points/condensor, starter, and oil change. Driven about 300 miles in the past 3 months or so. Mostly around the neighborhood or short cruises around town. Great car! Fun, Fun, Fun...
Oh, I did ad the little tach where the blank clock is.
Yup, i'm familiar w/the Marti report, just didn't want to spend the money...! LOL. Probably should for curiousity. I know the orig color is not red. haha.
If I keep the car long term, which I would like, I will add AC to it. I'd only sell if I found something more unique or rare. Doubt that will happen...esp w/this economy.
I have only a small area of dash lights that are working right now. I did replace all the bulbs and still the same. From my research, it appears that maybe a regulator is bad?
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1967 Mustang Convertible. 289 -4spd. Original
Daily Drivers: G37 coupe & S430
Is it only some of the lights are working or are they all working but are just dim? Are you sure the wiring is intact? No breaks or grounds?
BTW, a Marti report is only $40. From the look of the big brick house you'e got and it's in that really nice neighborhood, I think you can probably afford it! I like that 3rd garage bay being separate from the main garage.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
Is it only some of the lights are working or are they all working but are just dim? Are you sure the wiring is intact? No breaks or grounds?
BTW, a Marti report is only $40. From the look of the big brick house you'e got and it's in that really nice neighborhood, I think you can probably afford it! I like that 3rd garage bay being separate from the main garage.
I don't believe there are any breaks at all. At this point, who knows, i'll have to crack the dash open again. SOme of the lights are working, others are nada.
Marti report....$40. Oh...in that case. OK.
BTW, things are much, much less expensive in the burbs of Atlanta VS where we lived in Southern Cali. We have a mansion out here, but could only afford a shack out west.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody browning
back to your original post... imo you should keep the 289 and invest in some add ons!
add on's being?? heads, cam, carb, intake?
I do have long tube headers on the car right now, with 2.25" dual.
It was suggested to get good HP/Torque and to keep prices relatively cheap, go with the 302ho roller, world iron heads, edelbrock intake mani, 650 carb, and b303 cam.
I could always use the 289 block, world iron heads, edelbrock intake mani, 650 carb, and mild cam ---but i don't think i will get anywhere the power of the roller 302.
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1967 Mustang Convertible. 289 -4spd. Original
Daily Drivers: G37 coupe & S430
Regarding my last post, 'Don't pay it no nevermind", I'z just jealous, thats all"
Hopefully you just got some bad bulbs.
If not, since all the lights have just a power lead going to them, they lamps housing itself is the ground for the light. Make sure ther holes the sockets snap into are clean for a good connection to ground.
I don't think it would be a problem with the voltage regulator, because it would effect the bulbs that are lit up.
When you get it working, I'd put a fresh coat of bright white paint on the inside of the housing and the bezel, to reflect the light better. That's what I did. Mask it off well, before painting.
BTW, Power Front Disc Brakes is one of the best upgrades you could possibly do to your '67.
__________________
I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill
Regarding my last post, 'Don't pay it no nevermind", I'z just jealous, thats all"
Hopefully you just got some bad bulbs.
If not, since all the lights have just a power lead going to them, they lamps housing itself is the ground for the light. Make sure ther holes the sockets snap into are clean for a good connection to ground.
I don't think it would be a problem with the voltage regulator, because it would effect the bulbs that are lit up.
When you get it working, I'd put a fresh coat of bright white paint on the inside of the housing and the bezel, to reflect the light better. That's what I did. Mask it off well, before painting.
i'll try and see what works. thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67ragtopStang
BTW, Power Front Disc Brakes is one of the best upgrades you could possibly do to your '67.
I installed a 4 wheel disc setup on my 69 olds 442. Didn't even get a chance to install b/c the car was stolen at the bodyshop. nice, huh?
So i'm a little bitter about doing brakes again. LOL.
that's on my list of stuff to "eventually" do. thx.
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1967 Mustang Convertible. 289 -4spd. Original
Daily Drivers: G37 coupe & S430
67 conv - adding HP/Torque, negative effects on body/frame? 
I like that 3rd garage bay being separate from the main garage.
