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Old 10-22-2009   #1 (permalink)
kuhleako is offline Rookie


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Angry Sutck at work! Need help. Engine wont turn off.

Hey all, i'm kinda in a pinch here. I pulled into work today and pulled my key out of the ignition and the little guy wouldn't turn off. I put my key back in and twisted it around and it sped something up into double time. It was really humming so i pulled the key out and disconnected my battery terminals. I reconnected them and the engine is still going a mile a minute. Anything I can do to fix this quickly? Any ideas? I would like to be able to go home tonight lol.

by the way its a 1966 I-6.
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Old 10-22-2009   #2 (permalink)
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Just pull the wire off the coil and it will quit.

I think you need a new ignition switch
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Old 10-22-2009   #3 (permalink)
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I'm fairly dumb when it comes to these kind of things? Wire and coil where? Any way you could give me a location? I really appreciate it!
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Old 10-22-2009   #4 (permalink)
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Might be able to suffocate it if it has a snorkle on the breather.
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Old 10-22-2009   #5 (permalink)
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If it is a manual you could put on the brake and let out on the clutch and it should just die but I guess its not. You could unplug the coil wire.
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Old 10-22-2009   #6 (permalink)
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Unfortunately it's an automatic. Where is this coil everyone speaks of? If that doesn't work i'll definitely try the suffocation method.
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Old 10-22-2009   #7 (permalink)
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The coil wire is high voltage even on a 1966..ya said 1966 right?

It is a little smaller than a pop can one of the wires will be going to the distributer. You could use like a wooden broom stick
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Old 10-22-2009   #8 (permalink)
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its in the middle of the distribitor,where the sparks plugs are.
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Old 10-22-2009   #9 (permalink)
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yeah its a 66. So I just knock the wire going from the coil to the distributor off with a broom stick? I'm completely new to these old fords so sorry for asking so many questions.
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Old 10-22-2009   #10 (permalink)
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Yea it should work like you said. Unless you have like weldin gloves and insulated channel locks.

You could also unplug one of the low voltage wires going to the coil or comming from the distributor

If its a stock type coil it shouldent kill ya or even stop your heart if thats any help.
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Old 10-22-2009   #11 (permalink)
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Hello. It sounds like your ignition switch needs to be replaced. That isn't really something that you will be able to do after work if you aren't all that familiar with how the car is put together. Do you have any basic hand tools with you? First, I would advise you to have the car towed home. That would be an excellent idea. From there, you can sort the problems out a lot better. If you are one of those particularly hard-headed fellows ( you know how you guys can be sometimes ) how you can get the car home is reconnect the battery cables to get the car started and then unplug the two little wires from the front of the starter solenoid. That's the thing that has the other end of the positive battery cable attached to it. If the car continues running and it sounds like it normally does, drive it home and fix it. If the car dies when you unplug those wires, reattach them, start the car and then disconnect the starter cable from the back side of the starter solenoid. That's the cable that has an end like a battery cable and is over on the opposite side of the solenoid from where the positive battery cable attaches. But, plan 'A' is definitely tow the car home.
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Old 10-22-2009   #12 (permalink)
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If i disconnect all the wires going into the coil will it harm anything? Will it produce the wanted result? Also, does it make a difference if the battery is disconnected while I do all of this and the engine is off?
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Old 10-22-2009   #13 (permalink)
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I would not harm anything on the car to unplug the coil wire while it is running. On a newer style car with sensitive PCMs ECMs and such it could harm the computer if the coil wire was not grounded properly. You should not have any computer on board so should be ok. It would just spark a few times and be done. This does sound a little crazy if ya dont know what your doing. If you have a light and a screwdriver you should be able to unplug one of the low voltage wires like I said with no possibility of shock. Ya might be able to pull one of them wires off the solinoid but I'm not sure what wire onthe solinoid.

Maybe your coil is one with 2 small nuts in that case ya would need a small wrench, socket or vise grips always work haha

Your battery just starts the car
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FRPP C springs, Bilstein shocks and struts, M&M Caster Camber plates, Urethane rack & sway bar bushings, spring isolators.
M&M Stainless Steel braided brake hose, Hawk HPS pads, freshly turned rotors
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Old 10-22-2009   #14 (permalink)
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Either one of these primary terminals will kill it
Attached Thumbnails
sutck-work-need-help-engine-wont-turn-off-ignitioncoil.jpg  
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Tremec TKO 500, Spec Stage 1 Clutch & Pressure Plate, Ford clutch cable with MM firewall adj. & quadrant, MSD Cap/Rotor & Wires, Autolite 25's, Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure reg., SLP Loud Mouth 1 cat back, BBK CAI
FRPP C springs, Bilstein shocks and struts, M&M Caster Camber plates, Urethane rack & sway bar bushings, spring isolators.
M&M Stainless Steel braided brake hose, Hawk HPS pads, freshly turned rotors
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Old 10-22-2009   #15 (permalink)
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The coil is a small black cylinder, mounted to the side of the engine, with what looks like a spark plug wire sticking out of it. I'd get a leather glove and pull the larger wire off the coil. This will kill the engine if it's still running. I wouldn't do this as a way to use the car, but just a way to shut it down.

Have someone replace the ignition switch and you should be back in business.
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I contend, that for a nation to try to tax itself into prosperity, is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle.
—Winston Churchill

1967 Mustang Convertible - 289-4V w/C4
1992 Bronco - 302 EFI Auto
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