[Geo]

I will be doing this job for the first time. I've read several posts about it. I still have a few questions. Please, guys that have actually done this before, I would sincerely like to read your feed back and advise.

The head size of the harmonic balancer bolt is 15/16". Do I need a deep socket or will a regular length socket with a 1/2" breaker bar work just as well? After the bolt and washer is off, I'll going to use the larger harmonic balancer puller from AutoZone. It takes a 5/8" socket to pull it off. Because I don't need to replace the timing chain and sprockets (it has been done before), lining up the balancer with the timing pointer reading TDC as I remove it is not necessary. Is that right?

After I removed and replaced the timing cover gasket and fastened it back on, I have to line up the harmonic balancer keyway with the key on the crankshaft. By doing this the engine still remains at 6*BTC. Is that right?

I'll be using a torque wrench to fasten back the 15/16" balancer bolt and washer. Does someone know where I can find a list of torque limits for the 289 engine on our site?

The timing cover gasket set (Fel-Pro) I will be using has a sleeve (speedy sleeve) which is a crankshaft front repair sleeve for a hub or shaft that is grooved. Regardless if it is grooved or not I'm thinking of using it. Anything wrong with doing that?

Finally, besides draining the coolant from the radiator, I want to drain it also from the engine block. What size drain plug is it and is there one on each side of the block near the middle bottom?

Please guys, respond as soon as possible. I have not invested in a computor yet - I'm using them at libraries which allow only one hour use ( sometimes two) each day. If you ask me a question, I may not be able to get back to you until the next day.

[The Greek]

First, the library should have a service manual in the reference book section for the torque specs. If you can't find the specs for the 289, the specs for the 302 will be fine for your application. To save you time, the bolt for the balancer to crankshaft needs 70-90 ft lbs of torque. The waterpump to cover and the cover to block bolts get torqued to 12-15 ft lbs.

You do not need a deep well 15/16" socket to remove the balancer's bolt. Since the balancer is keyed, there is no problem with installing it and it being out of position in relation to the timing pointer if the gears and chain aren't disturbed. The balancer will install to it's original position.

You won't hurt anything by installing the speedy sleeve. Actually you will be preserving the seal surface on the balancer by using it. Just be careful with the sleeve, they will bend easily when installing.

As for the coolant plugs, there should be a couple of 1/4" pipe thread plugs on each side of the block. They are below the freeze plugs, height wise. One plug in the front and one toward the back. You will need an Allen wrench to remove them. You would not be able to access a plug if it was in the middle because of the engine mounts. Since the engine is usually slightly tilted to the rear when installed, using the rear plugs would be the most effective at draining out the most coolant. I installed petcocks in place of the plugs to make draining a little easier. The same kind of petcocks that are used for draining the radiator.

I'm not aware of a list of torque specs being posted on this site. I would get a copy of the factory service manual. They're available in reprint for your model year from most Mustang resto part vendors. Good luck.

[Geo]

Thank you Chuck for the quick confirmation to replacing the timing cover gasket. You are correct about the torque limits for the 289. I have the 1967 Mustang manual. I feel more confident now in doing the job and locating those drain plugs.

I have one other question. Do you advise me in using a silicone sealant? What is the best way to apply it? Would you use the same sealant on the paper gaskets as well as the two cork tabs for the left and right sides of the oil pan and the thin curved rubber seal? (I think it goes at the bottom of timing cover).

[The Greek]

Yes, you will want to use some silicone sealant. Use it on the gasket, on both sides around the water passages, in the corners and where gaskets join. I also apply a thin coat around the outer surface of the crankshaft seal, (The metal part), before installing. Don't forget to apply a coat of oil or grease to the lips on the seal for lubrication where it rides against the balancer. Friction will ruin the seal if there isn't any lube there.

I use a spray on gasket sealer called "Copper Coat" on both sides of the paper and cork gaskets. When dry, it leaves a tacky surface and it helps to keep the gaskets in position. Most part stores have it.

The curved seal that sits on the bottom of the cover should have some silicone applied to the portion that sits inside of the groove on the cover and on the ends where it meets the other gaskets. Use just enough silicone for a good seal, don't over do it. Use your judgment. If the curved gasket makes good contact with the oil pan, you can either leave it alone or apply a light coat of the silicone to that surface, but you will definitely need some in the corners. Use the service manual as a guide.

I apply the silicone straight from the tube, but it helps to use something like a popsicle stick or a finger to spread it out. If the stick is too wide, cut it down to size. I don't recommend cutting down your finger, though.

[Geo]

Thanks again Chuck for your advise on replacing my timing cover gasket. The detail information on sealant use and what to be careful about is excellent. I have not started the work yet, but I placed jack stands under the car and was looking for that 1/4" pipe plug for block drainage that you said takes an allen wrench to remove. What I did see on the driver's side at the rear next to a freeze plug, about 2" away was what feels like a 1/4" square head with threads going into a hole. Is that what you mean? On the front of the driver's side of the block and the passenger side, front and rear, the view was blocked too much to look for it. The reason I want to drain coolant from the block is because when I remove the timing cover, I have read a post about it pouring out and some of it going into the oil pan and making a mess when I am working under the car.

[The Greek]

Geo, you are correct about the coolant getting into the oil pan as well as anything else that's scraped off of the face of the block. I always change the oil after doing things as such, just in case.

On the drain plugs, I had to go out and check their location. My memory doesn't serve me as it used to. There is one plug on each side. On the driver's side, it's located about 2 inches behind the rear most freeze plug. On the passenger side it is located about 2 inches in front of the forward most freeze plug. They are the only 1/4" pipe plugs on the side of the block. One per side. I apologize for any confusion that I may have created.

I used pet cocks that have a small nipple on the opening so that a hose can be slipped over it and then down into a drain pan. This keeps coolant from running down the side of the block and making a sticky mess.

The plugs on my block were a hex shape Allen type hole. Yours may have a square, I guess it would depend on what was available at the time that the engine was assembled. Sometimes the plugs will be tight and may take a bit of "Grunt" to get them out. Be aware of this so that you don't strip the hole in the plug.

[Geo]

Chuck, You don't after apologize. I have read some of your other posts to other members. You have a wealth of knowledge from your experiences in life. It is impossible to remember all of it, especially when you don't use it every day. I'm going to take your advise again and forget about draining the block plug.