[jspirritano]

Hi,
I was getting a small amount of oil seepage from around my distributor on my 289 so I decided to pull it out and replace the O-ring to see if that would help..... Seemed like a very simple job. I also marked off everything to assure proper replacement of the distributor. I put the new O-ring on, got all my marks aligned, and tried inserting the distributor back in, but it wouldn't slide in all the way in, it stops with about 1/8" left before it completely seats against the motor, and I've tried everything over the last 4 hours, with no success to try and get it to seat. I've slightly rotated the oil pump shaft about 20 times to get it to align and drop in, but no success...... im frustrated and tired because such a simple job has now put my baby out of commission. I pray to god i don't to have to drop the oil pan....... any suggestions?
thanks!
Jamie

[Tominator]

Sooner or later every person that works on a SBF has this very experience..the oil drive rod is not going into the hole on the distributor shaft.

Look at the bottom of the distributor shaft. Some are beveled where the rod goes into the shaft and others are not. Of course that bevel lets the rod go in rather easily and the one that's not beveled can be a SOB!

Turn the shaft with the proper sized socket just a wee bit[again] and that might do it.

Patience....

Last time that happened to me I gave up....next morning it dropped right in!

[cody browning]

ive been there man it is frustrating as hell. Same thing for me though i gave up and a couple days later it fell in on the first try! good luck i wish i knew a trick to tell ya but seems like the best thing to do is keep trying.

[banjo314]

Wow, I am glad to see someone else has this issue. 6 hours and then beer. 2 days later it dropped right in. If you rush it, it will not happen.

[jspirritano]

Well I woke up this morning very hopeful after reading the previous 3 posts late last night. But unfortunately I've been at it for another hour with no success yet..... Im trying to be patient. little turn of the oil pump rod, re-try insert, little turn, re-try, little turn, re-try...... I'm wondering if i swap it for a new distributor if that will help. I can get a new one with the core for around $40, then i will probably throw an electronic points converter in there as well..... Although I guess if i can't even get the new one in its pointless, but i guess i can try.

[Ranger1]

I had the same problem on my 289 rebuild. I had enough varnish buildup inside the distributor hole that I had to take crocus cloth and cut the varnish out and then clean the hole with a rag and brake cleaner. I also removed the distributor o-ring, then cleaned the distributor boss with crocus cloth and again brake cleaner. Then the distributor dropped in as it should. Also, look down at the oil pump shaft and see if its sitting straight up. When they get lots of wear they tend to lean to one side, so try and staighten it up, then drop the distributor in after cleaning. It worked for me.

[The Greek]

Remove the O-ring from the distributor and then get the dist to seat. You won't be fighting both the O-ring and the pump shaft. Once everything is lined up, reinstall the O-ring and then the dist. I've found that the O-ring needs to have some oil or grease on it for lubrication and then a gentle tap on the distributor's base with a piece of wood and a hammer will overcome the resistance that the O-ring is causing. You will know it's the O-ring not seating since you've already got the pump shaft in the right position previously.

[Jay H 237]

I had the same problem and what I did was get the distributer as far as it would go then I just bumped the starter and it dropped right down.

[jspirritano]

Thanks Jay H 237. I had my wife crank the motor while I put firm pressure on the distributor and it fell in (on the 3rd try). Problem solved. Thanks

[jspirritano]

I got the distributor back in and now the motor wont start

[jspirritano]

I thought I found TDC, and matched up my firing order with the position of the rotor but she just cranks like a champ with no fire. How do i know when the piston has reached the top of the cylinder.... which one of the rods indicates top of the stroke, the rod closest to the front, or the rear of the cylinder?