power steering removal 1966 mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-27-2009 Thread Starter
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power steering removal 1966 mustang

hey guys, ive grown to really hate my power steering in the mustang and figure since its such a light car anyway i want to take it out completely. Aside from removing the pump what else do i need to do? Dont know much about it so any help would be great!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009
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I know exactly what your feeling man. Did the same thing and have not been happier. Before you decide on doing this just be aware that installing manual steering on a power steering gearbox is quite a hassle for some but i dont mind. With that aside, this is what i did on my 66 coupe.
1) Got a Manual drag link on ebay for 55 bucks.
2) Rip that crap outa there.
3) Simply install drag link replacing the control valves spot.
4) Sell power steering for 200 bucks.( i sold all mine on craigslist for 250 and the guy was amazed at the price so you may get better)

All in all, i made 200 buck profit, and my car doesnt leak like a sieve. Took 30 min to install.
Note: be careful taking out the pump and hoses. PS fluid will get everywhere if your not careful.

1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Wimbledon white with guardsman blue stripes
Ford Racing 302 gt40 aluminum Heads, e303, Edelbrock rpm intake, edelbrock 600, All Forged, 1.6 roller rockers. 340 hp, Ford racing t5 super duty,
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-28-2009
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How does that manual steering feel on a 289? My '65 is sloppy feeling and vague. I had a 64 Galaxie with the same kind of steering and it felt reasonable but the mustang is lazy and acts like there is slop in the steering box. I had it out of the car an torn apart. There is nothing wrong with the box itself.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009
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Im 90 percent sure its the control valve brass slide and the seals around it. I know from my experience that this is one of the most crucial parts of your power steering. Most would say the steering box and idler arms are the problems and all that but its probably the control valve. You might want to take it off and if you can slide the ball stud back and forth a bunch thats your problem. You want it to pivit more than slide. Major sliding causes most of the slop. Id spend the time and effort rebuilding the control valve before anything else. Makes one hell of a difference.
Also, check out the steering cylinder bracket on the frame. Get someone to turn the wheel slightly back and forth to see if theres slop in the bracket. If it does like mine did, get a new bracket because the old ones most likely bent and new crush nuts.

And about the manual with the v8, i have a 302 in mine and its really not a problem. If your a real wuss then it might.

1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Wimbledon white with guardsman blue stripes
Ford Racing 302 gt40 aluminum Heads, e303, Edelbrock rpm intake, edelbrock 600, All Forged, 1.6 roller rockers. 340 hp, Ford racing t5 super duty,

Last edited by FordGtMan; 10-29-2009 at 01:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-29-2009
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If you're switching to manual steering you may want to upgrade to an Opentracker roller idler arm, it will make turning the wheel easier and tighen up the steering a little more. It is a direct bolt in.

1968 Mustang coupe, Acapulco Blue, 289 2v, C-4, Power Steering.
Hopefully a 1969 convertible or Sportsroof (non Mach or Boss) for next Mustang project

Trying to find my father's 1973 Mustang Grande he bought brand new. 3F04F126773 last known registration and title was in New Jersey, 1982.
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