1966 Mustang Timing chain cause engine not to start?
I have a 1966 Mustang L6 200 cid, auto, convertible I picked up last year and have tinkered with several things to make the car a daily driver, at least in the summer. You can't drive in the winter with a convertible here.
Earlier this summer I realized that I had the wrong carburetor on the car, which I assumed was one of the reason the car always ran rough, including fast idle, stalling at quick stops, etc. No matter what adjustments I did to the carb, it just wouldn't settle down, so after some research I found I had a carburetor for a manual transmission on the car (I have an automatic.) So, I purchased a new carb from Pony Carburetors. After installing the new carb it fired right up and I took it for a test drive to work out the timing a little more. After that drive, the carb was leaking from the accelerator pump shaft (under the bowl), but I didn't have time to investigate, so the next day I went back to check things out and the car won't start. So I assumed it was the carb, to make a long story short, I send the carb back and Pony fixed the carb up. I reinstalled the carb Pony send back and the car still won't start. I've checked the spark and I'm good; the coil is good, the plugs are good, I'm getting fuel in the carb. The car will occationally start for a couple of seconds, but then die, though it really never gets going. After the the initial 'start' it won't even do that again unless it sits over night and then it's the same thing. I've even replaced the points with a Pertronix II ignitor with the same results , (previously I was using the standard points). The engine turns over and sounds normal, no irregular sounds, pinging, dinging, etc. I do seem to be getting a little extra exhaust coming from the donut gasket as the manifold, but I didn't think that would cause the engine not to start.
I'm looking for some advice. I think it might be that the timing chain has jumped. Could a tooth or two slip be enough to cause this issue?
You bet it can. Turn the engine over so that #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Remove the dist cap and look to see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 cylinder's ign wire terminal.
Okay, I gave that a try and it's pointing just before the #1 terminal. Should it be right at the #1 or is just before okay? I'm guessing I really should rotate the distributor so that it's just after the #1 terminal, so that it would fire BTDC?
I've never had a timing chain jump, but the "sitting overnight" comment you made strikes me funny. That shouldn't help/hinder a jumped timing chain in my way of thinking. I have a truck that has a carb on it that is too much cfm for it and the spark plugs get gas soaked if it dies or even spudders. It won't start until you remove the plugs and clean/dry them or it sits overnight. I know you said the plugs are good, but if you haven't pulled one imediately after the engine dies, you should and check it out. You may be putting too much fuel to it and fouling the plugs.
Of course, checking the timing as easy as the Greek says and an excellent and important check.
EDIT _ Well - Sorry, I was writing my reply while you were reposting. The folks with better timing knowledge are going to want to know how much is "just before" because adjusting the dist cap will account for some of that. Anyhow, you're on the right track. Good Luck.
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
Last edited by Sick467; 3 Weeks Ago at 10:05 AM.
Reason: posted at same time as originator
If you set it slightly after #1 then it would be ATDC. When you just start timing it try 0° and it will usually start then you can set the timing from there with a light.
only if there is to much slack in the chain from being worn out or it has jumped timming but like some of the others said it isnt to hard to check if it is in time
To answer Veronica's questions. I tested the Ohms on the coil and the readings seem to be within specs. Pulled the primary wire from the distributor cap, used a remote starter and held the end near the engine and saw a good, consistent spark. Pulled each plug and turned the engine over, while grounding the plug to the block and saw a good, consistent spark. Anything else I should try/do?
For sick467, I've pulled the plugs and wiped them clean and checked the spacing since this started, but nothing's seemed to work. Though the #1 plug is almost always 'wet', but the others are usually dry with a powdery film. I assume a little extra exhaust, but nothing to prevent it from starting. This is a 1bbl carb (reproduction of the Autolite 1100), so I'm not sure there could really be too much cpm for this engine, at least with this carb. I probably should really say starts after sitting a long time, I get a few 'put-puts' and then nothing. Just before, as you look down on the distributor, it is counterclosewise (to the right) of the #1 terminal, it's not exactly straight on. I'll try rotating to put it at the #1 terminal.
Well, I'm at a bit of a loss. How bout I grasp at straws?
1.) How's the compression?
2.) I have a Ford 8N and once it had the worst time starting, the plugs looked fine. (I had seen far worse that worked fine.) Changed the plugs and problem solved.
3.) Has your fuel gone bad? Filter plugged? or Plug wires shorted out?
Huh?
__________________
Ride On,
Noel
"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
My Garage - 67 Mustang Coupe, 67 GTO, 67 Sprite, 72 Chevy PU, & Old Ford 8N.
I can appreciate your frustration but since it sounds like you have confirmed you have spark (ignition), and I would have to assume you are getting oxygen, i can only figure its not getting fuel or to much fuel like sick467 said earlier.
keep in mind, all this started to ocurr only after you had changed the carb. Any chance you still have the old carb ? if so, i would slap that back on and see what it does.
If not, try the "shade tree mechanic process". Try spraying a little fuel in the carb while someone turns over the engine. Becareful as it can dangerous (i always kept a rag to put out any back fire flame).
If you have any way to get someone to turn the engine over while you poor or spray a little fuel in the carb it will tell you if its not getting fuel. If it fires (even only briefly) then you have a fuel issue.
Use a spray bottle or an old hair spray bottle. You only need a little.
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'68 Fastback, space blue metalic, 351C-4-V, 4-speed toploader
The compression was about 150-160, after I turned it over a couple of times. It was about the same for all six cylinders. I think that's within an okay range.
I know it's getting fuel, because when I look down the choke and pull up on the acceletrator I see fuel entering the chamber through the inlet value (not sure of the proper names), but I think you get what I'm saying. While I was on my test drive of the initial carb I had added fuel and driven it another 20 miles, so I think the fuel it okay. But, maybe it is getting too much, how would I adjust that or tell if it's getting too much fuel? I'll try a new fuel filter. But I'm at a lose, which is why I thought maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth or something and the timing between the cam and value to now off enough to make it not start. Any thoughts?
So the accelerator pump is squirting(little tube thingy) but you may have a clogged jet in the carb as well. This way when you pump the gas to start the car it squirts a bit of gas into the intake. Then it uses this up after a few putt-putt's and has no more fuel.
Well, sure enough, I put a little gas in the carb and it fired up. But, it would only fired and kept running if I held the choke plate open. When I'd let it close it would die. I was able to let it run a couple of minutes. When I let the choke plate close after that it died and I tried to start it again, but it wouldn't start. Tried the gas in the carb again, but it wouldn't start that time, though I may have put too much in. I'll try it again later this weekend. But any suggestions on how to get it to start without putting fuel in the carb and holding down the choke plate? What would cause this condition? Thanks.
Holding the choke closed makes it richer meaning that your carb is too lean. I would look up how to take out the jets on the carb and clean them, make sure they are free of blockages. And before that, just make sure the jets are adjusted properly.
1966 Mustang Timing chain cause engine not to start? 
Just out of curiousity, how exactly did you go about determining all of this ? This kind of sounds like an ignition problem. 
