T5's are obviously not known to be a "bulletproof" transmission. I am sure that most of us have neglected one part to add to another. Case in point, it seems that most would spend the cash on the engine, because thats what makes it fast. Transmissions might be second, as thats what puts it to the rear wheels, then the rear end seems to come in third.
There comes a time to just run what you have, and replace what breakes when it does- if it does.
BTW, Sfinch- I was just thinkin', if it's a 64 to 68, go with the 351, or whatever, but if you go with a 69, big block all the way. From the 69's to 70, I agree on the 69 all the way. I like the 4 headlights and the 1/4 panel scoops.
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5 speed, factory 18" wheels, Roush springs, hood scoop, spoiler, pedals and carbon fiber dash/console inlays. Rear black-out panel, headlight, foglight, and turn signal covers, C&L intake, tuned by Brenspeed.
Im going to use a carburetor. Ok if i use a 351w what year should i use.
If you dont think a T5 can handle it what trany would you recommend. what type of heads and cam shafts do u recommend like what valve sizes what size carb stuff like that
Thats really a loaded question. You seem to want it pretty radical, but still streetable. You gotta be honest with yourself in exactly what you want it to do. As for year of block, I will have to try and find my "Ford Performance" book. I know it's here somewhere.
With any kind of real power, a stock T5 will be on borrowed time. Again, that depends too...Tremecs are very popular, or if you like old school, go toploader. Or to get by, you could throw the T5 in there and consider it the weakest link, and drive it accordingly.
As for heads, the small blocks downfall are the exhaust ports. Again, if you wanna spend some money, you can certainly do just that with a decent set of heads. If you want "wild", check out Keith Craft. He knows his Fords, and will hook you up. A more mild choice would be just plain Edelbrock heads, with like a 2.02" intake and 1.68" (or so) exhaust valve sizes.
Camshaft? That depends on where you want the power, which the intake should be planned accordingly. Do you want the power off-idle, or do you want something that screams from 4500-7500 RPM?
Carb is another thing. A 600 CFM should support a fairly healthy 351, with possible rejetting...a 750 might be overkill. Then, do you want vacuum or mechanical secondaries, double pumper, lol...the options are endless.
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5 speed, factory 18" wheels, Roush springs, hood scoop, spoiler, pedals and carbon fiber dash/console inlays. Rear black-out panel, headlight, foglight, and turn signal covers, C&L intake, tuned by Brenspeed.
plenty of good feed on the motor situation but another thing to condsider is the ease of working on the motor when its IN the car like spark plug changes and such. Depending on the year mustang a 351W will be a tight fit but still doable in a 64-66. A clevland in that same car and you would need to remove the shock towers and go with coil overs which are never cheap. if its a later model (67-73) they came with 351 from the factory so the shock towers were made originally to have the clearance for a 351W or 351C. Either way a 351W would be my choice. If you want 400-500 horse out of a 302 your best bet would be a NEW block from DSS or something like that. But a stock bore/stroke 351W with a good set of heads alone can easily get you to 400HP and be perfectly streetable. Good luck doing that with a 302. And as far as parts prices and availability for 302 or 351W, from what ive seen theres not a whole lot of difference except that 302s have been put in just about everything ford has to offer... Id say 351W
I went from a 302 to a 351w with Edelbrock heads with the same cam grind as in my 302 and couldn't believe the difference. Do a 351w for sure. Like previously mentioned 400 streetable horsepower is a reality with a 351w with good heads. Good luck!
There is no replacement for displacement, go with 351w. As for the T5 i would be very leary of running one with more than 300hp one real hard shift could be your last.
I believe the only years a 351 Cleveland was available in the Mustang were 70 to 73. I was first thinking only from 71 to 73, but I remember my neighbor having a 70 Mach, and it had the Cleveland.
Again, I am all for the Cleveland, as my first car- for my 16th birthday was a 73 Mach, 351C auto. It took a year and a half, making $3.35 an hour to build it. Even with an "astonishing" 2.55 rear end gear, the thing ran. The cam was so rough, the top of the antenna bounced back and forth...with the doors open, the bottom back edge of the doors would move up and down a good 1.5". Off the line, it would fall flat on it's face. At 25 MPH, it would slide sideways at will. It would roast 'em pretty good going into 2nd, and on any somewhat smooth road, would chirp 3rd. I put it through hell, and it always came back for more. Anyway, sorry for rambling, but man, what a fun car.
Unless you're putting the Cleveland in a bodystyle (year) that it was offered in, although it absolutely can be done, it would just be alot easier to go with the Windsor. Go to Summits website or something, and look at the parts available for the 351W. You can easily find multiple offerings of basically anything you need. In fact, biggest difference between the 302 and 351W are the deck height to allow for the .5" increase in stroke (3.5" as opposed to 3").
BTW, in your original thread, you stated that you were looking for a 64 to 69 Mustang. If you were to opt for like a 67, 68, or 69, I would go big block all the way, as in 390, 427, 428. Parts are harder to find, and more expensive, but big block Fords are bad too.
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5 speed, factory 18" wheels, Roush springs, hood scoop, spoiler, pedals and carbon fiber dash/console inlays. Rear black-out panel, headlight, foglight, and turn signal covers, C&L intake, tuned by Brenspeed.
Jsusisaliv, when did he ever say he had a 8.8 rear? Hes looking for classic mustangs not fox body's. Unless its swapped he probably will end up with an 8 inch if its an early stang.
Also, there are cases of people running 400+ hp on a t5 but most have those gforce or whatever internals. Its just plain dumb to run that much power on a stock t5, which most likely has 200k miles anyway. Most would never know. If your going to spend thousands on making an engine right why do it in the first place if theres a "chance" of something breaking? Your engine can only be as strong as the rest of your powertrain. Just my opinion and all, not trying to piss anyone off.
Yeah I am not sure what rear he has I was only implying that a 8.8 would be fine A good 9" is normally on the pricey side and you can find 8.8's all over the place for little to nothing and would be fine under 500 HP as long as the axles were replaced. As for the T-5 yeah I agree 500 HP is really too much for it but I have seen people do it. Actually there is guys on this forum who do it. Personally I do not and would not I just know it is and has been done. Your fine fordgtman it takes allot more than that to piss me off you have a right to expressing your opinion!!
I will mention the rear since most has been engine talk and a bit of tranny talk. The front load carrier rearends (8" and 9") in the long run are much tougher than the 8.8's and can be a lot more user friendly (easier to work on). Just pull out the carrier, plop it on your work bench/table and there is all of your rearend guts in front of your face.
If you properly build up an 8", it can be very stout, and it will take most of what you throw at it. There are guys who are drag racing with 8" rearends putting 400+ torque/HP.
When dealing with tranny's and rearends it is the torque you have to watch out for more so than the HP. Diesels have stout rearends because of the torque they produce, because they aren't naturally high on the HP.
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65 Mustang 289 C4. Edelbrock 600cfm (no more Pony Carb Autolite), Shorty Headers with 2 1/2" collector & glasspacks, Shiftkit, 5-leaf stock height rear springs, 620lbs/1" drop front springs, Gas Adjust shocks, 14x7 American Racing S200 Daisy Rims, low-mid range cam, 1 1/8" front sway bar & 3/4" rear sway bar, & ~3.80's (I think) in the rear.
With the T5. You can buy new ones that are built to take lots of torque or you can buy the kits to upgrade a regular T5 to a heavy duty one. The TKOs are super heavy duty but a lot of the time they require cutting of the transmission tunnel wear as the T5 at most requires just moving the shifter hole a little bit. The full T5 installs are also at least twice as keep as a TKO install, if not more depending. I've done the research.
If it is just around 400ft lbs or so of torque a beefed up T5 should be quite find. If you are looking for a lot more power than yeah, you should go with a TKO then.
But in my opinion you shouldn't make the transmission decision or rearend decision until you hone in your goal. 400ft lbs or 500ft lbs? Makes a huge difference. Something to think about.
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65 Mustang 289 C4. Edelbrock 600cfm (no more Pony Carb Autolite), Shorty Headers with 2 1/2" collector & glasspacks, Shiftkit, 5-leaf stock height rear springs, 620lbs/1" drop front springs, Gas Adjust shocks, 14x7 American Racing S200 Daisy Rims, low-mid range cam, 1 1/8" front sway bar & 3/4" rear sway bar, & ~3.80's (I think) in the rear.
A good 9" is normally on the pricey side and you can find 8.8's all over the place for little to nothing and would be fine under 500 HP as long as the axles were replaced. As for the T-5 yeah I agree 500 HP is really too much for it but I have seen people do it. Actually there is guys on this forum who do it. Personally I do not and would not I just know it is and has been done. Your fine fordgtman it takes allot more than that to piss me off you have a right to expressing your opinion!! 
