I am new to the motor building and I need a lot of help. i am going to build a mustang between 1964 and 1969 and i need a motor for it. i dont know what motor to use a 302 or a 351. im going to use a five speed trany. i want it to be a quick car a really quick car. but it has to be some what street able cause it is going to be manly on the street with the weekend trip to the strip. i was thinking 400 to 500hp. preferably with a 302 because there is plenty of them around here and parts are a little cheaper. which motor and what all needs to be done to it and can i get by with out boring it out. Thanks for all the help
If you want 400 hp and done easy just get a 302 and go stroker. You get the best of both worlds. Reason why i say this is because your going to have to buy forged internals and all for the 351 anyway so you might as well spend a little extra for the stroker kit. I say a 347 with afr185's, and a custom ground cam, and a good single plane intake will run quite well. You say a five speed but is the transmission cut out for 500 hp? Is it a t5 or a tko or something of the sort? A t5 will break before you knew what happended to you. Also check out you rear end. If its stock 300 hp is pushing it. Id get a new 9 inch if the wallet allows.
Just remember, i know you may want quick but 300 hp is quite fast enough for a 3000 pound car. Thats about the limit you want to take your powertrain to, and thats pushing it. Anything higher your spending thousands extra for the rest of the powertrain parts.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.
You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
I am an avid fan of the 351C, but thats not as practical as the 302 or 351W...and out of those two, I always say theres no substitute for cubic inches. 351W all the way. I have never really understood the idea of paying to have a 302 stroked to a 347 or something, when you can start with a 351, which are also readily available. The 351 Windsor also has a much beefier crankshaft. If you are dead set on stroking an engine, you can have the 351W stroked to 427.
As for boring the engine, check the bores to see how out of round they are. I prefer to go .030 over just to true up the cylinders, as theres no sense in dropping all that money for heads, intake, headers, etc., when you skimp on the first step.
Unless you plan on spinning it to 7K RPM, the stock cranks again, are pretty stout. If you want to spend a bunch more money, get a forged crank. I would also suggest at least forged pistons. Pay the money to have the block, crank, and heads (if the heads will be used) magnafluxed and checked. The possibilities are endless, its just a matter of what you want to spend, and what you want out of the engine.
If you want 400 hp and done easy just get a 302 and go stroker. You get the best of both worlds. Reason why i say this is because your going to have to buy forged internals and all for the 351 anyway so you might as well spend a little extra for the stroker kit. I say a 347 with afr185's, and a custom ground cam, and a good single plane intake will run quite well. You say a five speed but is the transmission cut out for 500 hp? Is it a t5 or a tko or something of the sort? A t5 will break before you knew what happended to you. Also check out you rear end. If its stock 300 hp is pushing it. Id get a new 9 inch if the wallet allows.
Just remember, i know you may want quick but 300 hp is quite fast enough for a 3000 pound car. Thats about the limit you want to take your powertrain to, and thats pushing it. Anything higher your spending thousands extra for the rest of the powertrain parts.
Well I could be wrong but a T-5 has been known to handle 500 hp. Of course it can break with 200 HP but I have heard they will handle 500 HP pretty easy as long as it does not already have 200K on it. Also the ford 8.8 is just fine I know for sure with 500 HP. The ford 8.8 is tough as an anvil!!! No need to change to a 9" unless you break the 700 HP or better as long as you change the axles and they may be good for more
Go 351 all the way. That way if you want more your can stroke her and still have room to play with. Don't worry with the rear end, just go 31 spline axles and call it a day. Tho, I know of 4 drag cars at my track that run stock rear end's, 28 spline's, one just over 600 horse with a power glide and the other just at 400 horse with a c4. Both drag cars on fat slicks. Both launching b/t 4000-5500.
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1994 Mustang GT 5.0
Mods to date: T5 swap, MGW shifter & Composite race knob, Ram clutch, flowmaster cat back system, BBK o/r h pipe, BBK equal length headers, BBK cold air intake
In the process of a gt40 install along with 4.10's and some other new goodies
Blueoval hit the nail on the head for me. I thought you wrote that you did not want to bore out etc..
No susbtitue for CID, start with a Windsor Roller block and unless you get a fairly new engine (late model efi) it may need a bore to makeit safe to pump 4-600 hp.
the newer W roller blocks like the 88 and up 302's are high in nickel and almost dont wear the cyl. walls. We have built 5 of them so far and all having 100-120K in Explorers(98-02) had .003" wear in the blocks requiring only a hone. that is awesome man. I am a 351C fan but there is a STRONG aftermarket to support what you want to do with ease.
You can even put Alum. Edelbrock 351C heads on the windsor and a mild roller cam in the .566 are and make your 450hp with a good carb. imagine a 393W with those heads and fuel injection or a nicely set up 750 Holly - nice! Good luck
well for the kind of numbers you are looking for 400-500 hp
trying to build a 302 will cost you a fortune , trust me i'm doing right now
yes it call be done well at least 400 with the right internals and a later 5.0 (87-92 w/ roller cam)
so i agree with the others just start with the 351 and get the right set
of heads and intake/carb combo match up a cam and that car will be a monster!
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91 302 roller .030 / Comp Cams #XE266HR cam
Edelbrock RPM Heads / RPM Air Gap intake
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
and ice cold A/C!
well soon , very soon!
"the only time you have to much fuel is when you are on fire!"
well for the kind of numbers you are looking for 400-500 hp
trying to build a 302 will cost you a fortune , trust me i'm doing right now
yes it call be done well at least 400 with the right internals and a later 5.0 (87-92 w/ roller cam)
so i agree with the others just start with the 351 and get the right set
of heads and intake/carb combo match up a cam and that car will be a monster!
Me too! If your building a motor with that power your basically building a whole new drivetrain.
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66 coupe 306cid
Speedpro pistons - Cloyes 2x roller timing - Comp Cam Magnum 270h - Edelbrock RPM Air Gap - Pro/Sport SFI damper - DART heads coming soon! - carb is TBA - ARP hardware - thats it for now.
HI GO WITH THE 351 W i HAVE ONE AND AFTER A WHILE YOU'LL WANT EVEN MORE. THEN GO WITH THE 351 STROKER WHAT A KICK A.....S CAR THE WINSOR IS THE BEST i HAVE EVER DONE FOR MY STANG. HOPE YOU GO WITHIT BECAUSE YOU;LL LOVE IT..
Your performance is going to depend on the weight of the car you choose. A 65-66 will be great with a built up 302 but the 69 will be a dog compared to the 65 with the same engine. The 69 would be a mover with a 460 stroker but it won't fit between the shock towers of a 65 or 66.
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Paul's Street and Strip Performance AODs & C4s paulstephens @ q . com 6522 51 Ave. S. Seattle, WA. 98118 206.725.0881
Sfinch- BTW, do you plan on going the efi route, or carburetor? Do a search on a book called "Ford Performance", written by Pat Ganahl. It's about a $15 book or so, and worth it's weight in gold. I know he has printed a revised and updated version, and although even that might be a little outdated for efi, but the basic principals still apply.
The book will tell you what year or part number heads to look for, the difference in blocks, performance ideas, etc. It is a great book.
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5 speed, factory 18" wheels, Roush springs, hood scoop, spoiler, pedals and carbon fiber dash/console inlays. Rear black-out panel, headlight, foglight, and turn signal covers, C&L intake, tuned by Brenspeed.
Jsusisaliv, when did he ever say he had a 8.8 rear? Hes looking for classic mustangs not fox body's. Unless its swapped he probably will end up with an 8 inch if its an early stang.
Also, there are cases of people running 400+ hp on a t5 but most have those gforce or whatever internals. Its just plain dumb to run that much power on a stock t5, which most likely has 200k miles anyway. Most would never know. If your going to spend thousands on making an engine right why do it in the first place if theres a "chance" of something breaking? Your engine can only be as strong as the rest of your powertrain. Just my opinion and all, not trying to piss anyone off.
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1966 Mustang- "Five liter Fury"
Future mods: Rebuild motor, New paint, Install a 4 speed.
You know your a real GearHead when your friend tells you the IRS has really been killing him lately, and you reply, "Yeah, i prefer live axles too."
which motor 302 or 351 
That way if you want more your can stroke her and still have room to play with. Don't worry with the rear end, just go 31 spline axles and call it a day. Tho, I know of 4 drag cars at my track that run stock rear end's, 28 spline's, one just over 600 horse with a power glide and the other just at 400 horse with a c4. Both drag cars on fat slicks. Both launching b/t 4000-5500. 
HOPE YOU GO WITHIT BECAUSE YOU;LL LOVE IT..
