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Old 1 Week Ago   #1 (permalink)
BWR
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Default Just joined AFM and wondering how I should start my mustang after years of storage?

Hi, Yesterday I brought home a early 65 convertible. Today I joined your forum. My 'new' Mustang is just about 100% original and completly intact. Its a 260 with a 3spd manual trans. All in all it's in very good condition. But...for at least the last five years it had been garaged and has not been started. How should I go about starting it for the first time? I am exited to start it up but not looking forward to spinning a bearing or similar. I was thinking I should I pull the plugs and spray a bit of oil in each cylinder and allow that sit a few days until it seeps down around the rings. Then hand crank it around stopping each cylinder in BDC and again lightly spray the cylinder walls with oil. Next, drain all the oil, change the filter. Then remove both valve covers and add new oil being sure to lubricating all the rocker assemblies in the process. Reinstall the plugs and give it a go... There is bound to be a best practice for this. Should I pre-presurize the oil before starting it? How is this done? Thanks for the replies. Can hardly wait.
Brad

Last edited by BWR; 1 Week Ago at 03:08 AM. Reason: added verbaige
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Old 1 Week Ago   #2 (permalink)
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Welcome aboard! The folks in here will square you away.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #3 (permalink)
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Hello BWR and welcome,
Be prepared to do several things beofre even trying to start
To do it safely and the correct way I feel.
1. - Remove valve covers
2. - Pull all sprak plugs
3. - Squirt a little “Mystery Oil in eacg plug and on the rockers and valves
4. - Take off fan belt - it will need a replacement anyways
5. - Put a socket on the crank pulley center bolt and try to rotate the motor
6. - Watch the valves and see if each rocker and valve are moving.
7. - If not - - - can probably loosen but hit with more MOil

The oil in the cylinders will run down into the crankcase in time.

8. - Change oil and filter - I like lightoil to start even a cup of MO
9. - CARB - see if choke closes and opens freely

10 - For a 65 I would probably replace the gas tank
11. - Minimuum blow out lines to Fuel Pump.
12. - Install clear filters before and after fuel pump..

Ther is a good chance the carb will be gummed up. We can cross that bridge later

Install new fan belt and adjust
Put on valve covers
Re-Install the spark plugs
Pump up the lifters by cranking with coil wire disconnected or better yet..pull the distributor and spin the oil pump[ shaft. Be careful if you pull the distributor.
Pump gas pedal 3 or 4 times, try to start.

If no start it iwll probably be fuel related.

Must figure if you are getting gas. The clear filter will help us see what’s going on.

The car just needs gas and a good spark to start. All of these can be figured out

One of the big obstacles will probably be fuel related. The old gas varnishes and gums up. Tis can cause many issues inside the carb etc.

This is an idea of where to start. It sounds like you are on the right track. Don't rush things. Print Dad
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Old 1 Week Ago   #4 (permalink)
BWR
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PrintDad, thanks for the detailed reply. I completely forgot the oil pump was driven off of the distributor. That was not only worth the price of admission but a trip down memory lane. thanks! I love stuff like that. Can I simply spin it with a cordless drill motor until it pumps oil up pushrods?

Can you explain lightoil? Are you talking about mixing 1 cup of Marvels Mystery Oil with five quarts of 30W? How long do you run a mixture like that before changing to straight oil? Thanks again for the help. I'll post some pics when I can.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #5 (permalink)
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DON'T pull the distributor! Pull the plugs. get a flexible semi rigid 3/8's tubing, like they use to send water up to your bathroom sink faucet. Get an Aerosol light lubricant like Zep 45 (or equiv).

Stick the 3/8's tubing into each cylinder and give it a big squirt of the lubricant, using one of the little tube spouts attached to the tip.

Leave the plugs out and turn the engine over with the starter (it will turn fast) until your oil pressure gauge comes up or the idiot lite goes out. At that point, absolutely every thing will be lubricated, valve train and all.

Then reinstall the plugs and fire it up. Cranking it with the plugs out pump up any lifters and will also get gas up into the carb.
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Old 1 Week Ago   #6 (permalink)
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Default Just joined AFM and wondering how I should start my mustang after years of storage?

Quote:
Originally Posted by BWR View Post
PrintDad, thanks for the detailed reply. I completely forgot the oil pump was driven off of the distributor. That was not only worth the price of admission but a trip down memory lane. thanks! I love stuff like that. Can I simply spin it with a cordless drill motor until it pumps oil up pushrods?

Can you explain lightoil? Are you talking about mixing 1 cup of Marvels Mystery Oil with five quarts of 30W? How long do you run a mixture like that before changing to straight oil? Thanks again for the help. I'll post some pics when I can.
Hello,
First as far as spinning the shaft....I may not pull the dizzy unless you mark it correctly and are pretty familiar with distributors and timing. I am thinking you may have that knowledge. To be honest if you use the Mystery Oil in the cylinders and on the rockers, you can turn the motor with coil wire pulled. I have done it that way several times. As far as spinning the shaft, you need a special tool to get on the shaft.

As far as thin oil. I would use a straight 20 weight oil for the first say 10 hours of run time on the motor. Then I would change the oil and use 10/30 weight oil.
If you can't locate straight 20 weight then yes I would use about 1/2 quart of Mystery Oil with 4 1/2 quarts of 30 weight.

You can never change the oil too often. So in the beginning I try to use a thinner oil to get into all the little nooks and crannies. It also helps free up small sludge deposits that may be in the system.

Lastly, as I am sure you know....When you first try to start the motor...don't give it high revs. Be very patient with the motor. Allow it to free-up a bit if you will before revving. When I started my Mach after many years...I let her run for about 3 minutes, shut it off, and checked for leaks etc. Then I started her again and let it run 15 minutes.

You may have issues related to the gas. If you use "starter fluid" USE SPARINGLY.
It will dry out the cylinder walls and the explosion is not good for the pistons.

I only mention these things in anticipation of troubles that may arise. Sea-Foam spray is good for cleaning the carb while running. Be advised it will smoke.

Lets see what happens. When you try to start her let us know. Then if there is a problem we will need to know a little about the carb (type etc.)

Don't rush this and don't get frustrated. There are several thing that could give you trouble when you first start. Things like points, wires etc. could be a small bump in the road.

Try to get to the point where you start it and let us know what is going on.

Best of Luck........ Print Dad
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