Removing Leaf Springs 66 Mustang - Ford Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009 Thread Starter
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Removing Leaf Springs 66 Mustang

Just really quick, I believe it's 2 bolts on each end of the spring that needs to be removed, and then the U-Bolts. Now, my question is, once the car is on stands and I heard raising one side at a time is the easiest to do, Do I jack the rearend up do have some play in the U-bolts so it would make it easy to remove the springs? I could go back to previous threads but just want to make a quick new thread about it.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009
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Support the car on each side at the frame rail or just in front of the leaf springs with safe Jack stands. With the car supported, place a floor jack under the center of the rear end and lift just a slight amount. This will put the leaf springs in a "neutral position" so they can be removed.

Just a word to the wise. if these leaf springs have never been removed before, you have difficulty getting bolts out of the front. Typically what happens is the bolt has corroded and fused to the metal bushing inside the front leaf spring rubber. therefore it wont slide out. no pounding with a hammer will acomplish anything if this is the case.

If this is the problem, remove the nut on each bolt. Get a sawzall with the best quality bi-metal blades and cut the bolt on each side of the leaf spring. the trick is being careful not to cut into the sheet metal. the bolts are hardned and i typically go through about 6 to 9 blades to cut of each side of the bolt at the front of the leaf spring. its takes a while and will tire you but you can get it.

Good Luck !!! and be careful

'66 Ragtop, vibrant red, 289-4V, 4-speed toploader
'68 Fastback, space blue metalic, 351C-4-V, 4-speed toploader
'69 Mach I, (Pending Resto Project)
'66 Fastback (because I wanted one)
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009
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one mroe thing for clarification. you have to cut the bolt on each side of the leaf spring between the leaf spring and the mount.

'66 Ragtop, vibrant red, 289-4V, 4-speed toploader
'68 Fastback, space blue metalic, 351C-4-V, 4-speed toploader
'69 Mach I, (Pending Resto Project)
'66 Fastback (because I wanted one)
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009 Thread Starter
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Thanks RF. I did read some nightmare stories about that. haha I've been soaking the bolts lately before I attempt to take them off. The good thing about it is yea, it has some rust on it, but the guy had garaged the car so I'm HOPING it won't be that bad. I got the ol' dremel so when it comes down to cutting, I should get it done. But am I right, just those 2 bolts on each end and the U-bolts? And about using the blades, what do you do once you cut the ends off, do you tap it out with a hammer and something thin and solid?

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009
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I just changed my springs I was able to get a air impact and lots of WD 40 to drive the bolt out, worked slick. Removing the rear shackle will depend on what kind you have. Either just 2 flat plates with 2 separate bolts or mine had the 2 plates but the bolts or studs are manufactured on one side forming a U. So I had to remove both nuts and slide the shackle (the U) and the bushing out.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009 Thread Starter
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On the shackles, the new shackle bushings go just above where the leaf spring attaches? I have 8 of them too so I just want to make sure where exactly they go into. I"m not too familiar with leaf springs/shackles. Pictures would help too.

Edit: Think I found a picture of it. I guess, what, 2 shackles holding each end of the spring so then replace 2 bushings on each of them and for driver and passenger side, I think I see the 8 bushings.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009
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There will be one bolt at the front of the spring. You may be able to heat the spring where the bolt goes through. This destroys the bond the bushing has made with the bolt, and after the rubber has started smoking you should be able to pound it right out. At least this is how I remove bushings from the lower control arms. If your car is completely assembled heating may not be your best option because you're pretty close to fuel lines.

For the shackles in the back, you have 8 bushings because each of them is only half a bushing and the half presses in from each side. There will be four bushings per shackle (I just had my springs off about two weeks ago so I think I'm recalling this correctly...)

Anyways, it's pretty self-explanatory to see how the leaf springs come off if you look at how they're attached. Just make sure you have the body of the car supported as well as the axle.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-22-2009 Thread Starter
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Ahh. Ok. I kind of thought about how the bushings were placed. I did see pics of other shackles with just the half bushing. Coolio. Thanks.

2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Air ride system with 4 link CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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