1968 Mustang-How do you replace rear wheel bearing - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
bexleykent's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Greenville
Posts: 24
 
1968 Mustang-How do you replace rear wheel bearing

I have a 68 and my driver's side rear wheel bearing has gone bad.
I have a few questions about replacing it.
  1. Can they be replaced with ordinary tools? I do know that I may need an axle slide hammer.
  2. Do you need to go into the pumpkin to remove anything to get the axle out?
  3. Do you need a special tool to pull the bearing out?
  4. Is there a special tool to seat the bearing back into the tube?
  5. Any other things to consider, or watch out for when doing the job.























/

Keep the reproduction parts industry alive.
Drive your Mustang, break it, repair it.
Keep the cycle going.
bexleykent is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009
GT Member
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Smyrna
Posts: 1,997
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bexleykent View Post
I have a 68 and my driver's side rear wheel bearing has gone bad.

I have a few questions about replacing it.
  1. Can they be replaced with ordinary tools? I do know that I may need an axle slide hammer. You can get them out with a slide hammer and ordinary tools (well a seal removal hook is handy and makes fast work of getting the seals out). One of mine needed the slide, the other came out with a pull. Most parts stores rent the slide hammer for free w/ a deposit.
2. Do you need to go into the pumpkin to remove anything to get the axle out?
No, no need to go into the pumpkin.

3. Do you need a special tool to pull the bearing out?
You need to take the axles to a shop that can press them off/on, most independent tire shops do this, muffler shops, etc. you can call and get an hourly charge. I chiseled the retaining ring off first and it only took 1/2 of labor to get the bearings off/on. You can see one pic below, following the shop manual I made 4 indentions with a chisel the whacked away in a spinning motion to get the retainer to break free, a new one comes with the bearings. I bought the bearings and brought them to the shop that pressed them for me, cheaper, they're in the last pic and fit most small bearing 8 & 9".

4. Is there a special tool to seat the bearing back into the tube? Nothing special to get it back in the tube, put a new seal in first and be very careful not to tear the seal when you slide the axle back in.
5. Any other things to consider, or watch out for when doing the job.
Take the drum off, then unbolt the 4 retaining bolts, get the axles out and carefully slip the brake backing plate with shoes/springs intact out the way and you shouldn't need to undo the brakes. Now you can get to the seal and check the bearing surface, I used some emery cloth to make sure there were no burrs where the bearing or seal sits. Tap the seal in evenly and put a little grease on it so it's not dry.

Some people get them to slide out by putting a tire back on the studs with some space to use the rim as a slide hammer jerking the wheel back against the lug nuts.

Take note when you're putting them back in, one short , one long, can't mix them up. Once you get them slid back in slight turning will let you know when the splines are lined up then give the end a whack with a block of wood and a mallet, they make a 'click' and they're back in.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlereassembly4.jpg
Views:	5465
Size:	66.9 KB
ID:	86371   Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlereassembly3.jpg
Views:	2363
Size:	66.1 KB
ID:	86372   Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlereassembly1.jpg
Views:	1569
Size:	68.8 KB
ID:	86373   Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlepulled.jpg
Views:	1898
Size:	55.6 KB
ID:	86374   Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlelockcollarremoval.jpg
Views:	1802
Size:	66.0 KB
ID:	86375  

Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxleheights.jpg
Views:	1500
Size:	48.4 KB
ID:	86376   Click image for larger version

Name:	67rearaxlebearingparts.jpg
Views:	2127
Size:	51.7 KB
ID:	86377  

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2009 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
bexleykent's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Greenville
Posts: 24
 
Jonk67 thank you for the time you spent on such a detailed response!!

Based on your pictures, it appears to me that the part that needs to be pressed in is a retaining collar, not the bearing itself. This is the piece you made the indentations on. Is my observation correct?

If this is the case do you think that when I replace the new collar on, I could get a pipe that is a slightly bigger diameter than the axle shaft and hammer it down the shaft?

Keep the reproduction parts industry alive.
Drive your Mustang, break it, repair it.
Keep the cycle going.
bexleykent is offline  
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2009
Banned
 
cindys_sn95's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Gulfport
Posts: 7,991
 
that is the old school way, but it will work. have done it many times.
cindys_sn95 is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-25-2009
GT Member
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Smyrna
Posts: 1,997
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bexleykent View Post
Jonk67 thank you for the time you spent on such a detailed response!!

Based on your pictures, it appears to me that the part that needs to be pressed in is a retaining collar, not the bearing itself. This is the piece you made the indentations on. Is my observation correct?

If this is the case do you think that when I replace the new collar on, I could get a pipe that is a slightly bigger diameter than the axle shaft and hammer it down the shaft?
The bearing is pressed on also, I don't know how you would get pressure behind the bearing to get it loose, you could use the pipe method I guess to get it back on. As mentioned I chiseled the retainer off and then took the axles to a tire shop and for $25-$30 1/2 hour labor charge I picked them up done, it was well worth all the pounding and cursing to have them do them. I cleaned the bearing surfaces and installed the seals while they did the bearings, that way when I picked them up I was ready to slide them back in. I try to avoid the high aggravaiton part of the job if it's affordable.

By the way I get to Greenville and Florence for work ~once/yr., Greenville is a quant town, I like eating at the overlook at the gorge.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-26-2009 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
bexleykent's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Greenville
Posts: 24
 
Jonk67,

OK I have the Axel out, and right now I am struggling to take the bearing and retaining collar off. I will try to find a shop to do it.

For laughs, look at the rig I made to try to get it off. It didn't work.


1968 Mustang-How do you replace rear wheel  bearing-dsc02766.jpg 1968 Mustang-How do you replace rear wheel  bearing-dsc02768.jpg 1968 Mustang-How do you replace rear wheel  bearing-dsc02767.jpg

Keep the reproduction parts industry alive.
Drive your Mustang, break it, repair it.
Keep the cycle going.
bexleykent is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009
GT Member
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Smyrna
Posts: 1,997
 
It might work if you chiseled the retaining ring off first (that ring of steel on the top side of the bearing) there's no way you're gonna get them both to break free at the same time. Take another look at my pic of it in the vice, here are the instructions from the ford shop manual:
"Loosen the inner retainer ring by nicking it deeply with a cold steel chisel in several places, it will then slide off easily"

I don't know about 'easily' but I rotated it in my vise giving it at least 4 good deep V groove whacks with my chisel/sledge or hammer then putting the chisel at a 45* to the V and whacking then rotating until the ring spun loose. Then I took it to the shop to have the bearing pressed off/on.

Nice job on the home made tool, if you want to see if it'll get the bearing off (soak it with penetrating oil to help) after you get the ring off.

I think you're learning what I did, after all the aggravation it's worth $30 bucks to leave it at a shop and pick them up done an hour later...
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
bexleykent's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Greenville
Posts: 24
 
Jon

The job is finally complete.
The key was chiseling the retaining collar. It only took me about 10 minutes. Four groves and it came right off.






As far as putting the bearing and retaining collar back on, I just used a pipe, and slid it down the axle shaft and used the pipe like slide hammer. Thank you again for your help and time. You saved me a lot of time and money.

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02770.JPG
Views:	1063
Size:	601.5 KB
ID:	86567   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02774.JPG
Views:	894
Size:	492.7 KB
ID:	86568   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02771.JPG
Views:	933
Size:	523.7 KB
ID:	86569   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02775.JPG
Views:	973
Size:	593.2 KB
ID:	86570   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02777.JPG
Views:	2125
Size:	564.6 KB
ID:	86571  


Keep the reproduction parts industry alive.
Drive your Mustang, break it, repair it.
Keep the cycle going.
bexleykent is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-27-2009
GT Member
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Smyrna
Posts: 1,997
 
Good job Andrew, did you try your puller contraption on the bearing by itself before tapping off the bearing like in the first pic? I take it the bearing wouldn't move with the puller you made?

Looks like someone owes me a next time I'm in Greenville!

Will you be going to the National show at the Biltmore in NC in Sept. 2010? I've already got a room for the family.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
bexleykent's Avatar
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Location: Greenville
Posts: 24
 
Jon,

I did try the contraption on the bearing only, and it did not come off. For clarity of other readers, I took the retaining ring off separately from the bearing. I just kept chiseling groves into the ring deeper until it came loose on its own,then I chiseled off the bearing at a 45 degree angle as shown in the pic.

I didn't know about the Baltimore show. I will look it up.

Keep the reproduction parts industry alive.
Drive your Mustang, break it, repair it.
Keep the cycle going.
bexleykent is offline  
GT Member
Classic Member
S197 Member
 
Jonk67's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Location: Smyrna
Posts: 1,997
 
Biltmore show:
Blue Ridge Mustang Club of Asheville - 2010 Nationals

Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
Jonk67 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Tags
bearing , wheel , wheel bearing

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Random Question

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183