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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-03-2010   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rear frame rail replacement

Hello, Iam in the process of stripping the undercarraige of my 66 coupe, in the process I have dicovered that the drivers side rear frame rail just before the shackle bolt for the leafspring rusted almost thru...I was thinking of frame rail patch....is theis a good idea or should i replace the whole rail.
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Unread 01-03-2010   #2 (permalink)
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I would patch it. The first thing is to grab a pick hammer and tap around the hole. It will most likely grow right before your very eyes! Mine were patched when I bought my car. One was as crooked as a dog's hind leg. They're pretty straight now. You can make patch pieces just make sure the gauge is the same.
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Unread 01-03-2010   #3 (permalink)
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i have found prefabricated patches that actually go over the existing rail. dont know how structutrally sound it woul be.
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Unread 01-03-2010   #4 (permalink)
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Well my thoughts are: 1. You need to cut out the rusty old metal anyway- "rust never sleeps". 2. You'll be able to see the repair easily. If asthetics doesn't bother you then go for it.
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Unread 01-03-2010   #5 (permalink)
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have you tried using any of the rust prohibitors and rust removers...have seen quite a variety of the posted....not sure on the dependability of them...have you used them?
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Unread 01-04-2010   #6 (permalink)
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Goodafternoon Replace the rail section It's the best and safest way to go. Patching humm how are you going to weld under the drop off ??.. The prefabed rail cover is junk and is used by gippo body shops to fix a car to sell to some poor smuck. Get the frame rail section a dropoff and the bummper brace/suport and to it right, I will try to attch a pic of my rail ready for the dropoff to be welded on. Hope the pic went with this
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Unread 01-04-2010   #7 (permalink)
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DVM is right guy's !!!. I know its a lot of work but your talking about a structural component here and if you intend for it to hold up at all, replace it.

Patching is fine but you cant patch a frame rail properly near the shakles unless you remove the trunk pan. If your going to do that, replace the thing and be done with it. You are only postponing the inevitable.

Remember, hind sight is 20 - 20 and we have all been in a position when we wished we had done something differently.
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Unread 01-04-2010   #8 (permalink)
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I have done the rear frames before with the short patch they sell. One end will fit inside the old frame rail after you cut off the old rusted section and then you just weld the two together. I was able to cut the bad section out from under the car without removing the trunk floor and then line up the new one by the spot welds from the old one and spot weld it back to the floor. If your floors are good you can do both sides in a weekend with the right tools.
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Unread 01-05-2010   #9 (permalink)
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Yes you should be able to do that. But the inserted new section is welded to the old, and not the old welded to the new on the inside of the rail and that requires the dropoff/trunk floor to be removed or opened up at that spot rail welded and then the floor welded. Having the rail only welded to the out side my not be strong enough for and fun driving. To each his own.
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