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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 02-05-2010   #1 (permalink)
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Angry 1965 Mustang, 289 Engine Stalls and starts hard when warm

Hey Mustang Lovers!!!

I have been troubleshooting an issue with my engine for weeks now, and I am about to pull my hair out! I have a 65 convert with a 289 hipo, and when it runs for 30 minutes or longer, the engine will run rough and then sometimes stall. It takes awhile for it to start back up again. From everything that i read, it sounds like i have a vapor lock issue???? maybe, maybe not? I re routed the fuel line from the #5 cylinder, and it is no where near the exhuast manifold. I also have 3/4" spacer under the carb. I have replaced the dual points, the condinsor, the coil, the plugs, the rotor, the cap and the plug wires. Timing is dead nuts, and the carb is adjusted perfect! This car has run good ever since i got it, but i recently adjusted the valves because i was getting blow back from my carb leaving black suit on my air cleaner. At first I thought the valves were too tight, leaving a valve open, causing the blow back. I checked compressions and they were all 100 to 115. One thing I noticed was when the engine acts up and i push the throttle linkage, the carb smokes and it sounds like it sizzling. Could the manifold be getting too hot, maybe a water temp issue or even too tight of valves??? ANY help at all would be appreciated! Its a shame to have such a cool car with such a cool engine that stalls out if i drive for more then 30 minutes.

Thanks!
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Unread 02-05-2010   #2 (permalink)
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If your spacer is aluminum then replace it with a Bakelite one to insulate it from the engine heat. Check to see if you have spark when the engine stalls - it might be a coil problem...
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Unread 02-05-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Isn't 100 psi a really really low compression number? I bet your valves could be tight. With a solid lifter cam you should be able to hear the lifters all the time, especially when cold. Can you? Make sure you're using the correct clearance specs for the hipo cam and not the hydraulic one.

Has the car always been this way? Have you made any recent changes before this started happening?
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Unread 02-05-2010   #4 (permalink)
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This all started happening after I adjusted the vavles. What is the normal psi for a hipo 289??? I bet that I tightened the valves down too much. I cannot hear them "chatter" anymore. I will try to loosen them tomorrow. Anyone know the correct way to adjust solid lifter cams??? All i did was go to top dead center on cylinder 1, then tighten the vavle down to where the push rod doesnt turn anymore, then go in firing order and keep doing the same thing.
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Unread 02-06-2010   #5 (permalink)
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One way to adjust them, is to remove a valve cover at a time, lay an old rag on the head to exhaust to catch the oil, start the engine, and use a .018 feeler gauge on the intakes and a .020 on the exhaust. adjust nuts until the feeler gauge will just slip in, if its too tight, it won't slip in. When one head is done, do the other one. If you don't like this method, then you have to turn the engine over with a wrench, until a cylinder is on the compression stroke, then adjust the valve lash as above. IF you think they are too tight, then do the second method, the valves won't get as hot. Good Luck.
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Unread 02-06-2010   #6 (permalink)
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Rex........ I love you man!!!! ha.... fixed the problem and I am back on the road again!! Thanks
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Unread 02-09-2010   #7 (permalink)
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Your welcome, my pleasure to help. I'll be glad when mines back on the road, I'm in the process of floor pan replacement, I've done the passenger side, now I'm doing the drivers side. It will be nice to not have a flintstone car anymore.
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engine stall, overheating, runs poor when warm, vapor lock



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