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Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 02-26-2010   #1 (permalink)
raeloneq is offline Rookie


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Default 1966 Mustang Ignition timing and fuel mixture setting.

Hi guys,

Car: Mustang '66 with a 302.

I'm back. I have 2 questions right now. I did a little work on the distributor point, also replaced dist. cap and condenser. Also I replaced the gaskets on my carburetor again, seems to be working good now (no leaks).

Question #1. Since i did some distributor work, should I check the timing and or set it. If so, how do you set the timing. I've never done it before and you know of a site that gives you step-by-step instruction with pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Question #2 Since i changed the gaskets and fiddled with the fuel mixture screws should I check this with a CO2 meter? Problem is I dont have a RPM gauge in the car so how do you set those mixture screws properly? Also need a step-by-step instructions on that.

Question #3 I cleaned the pint on the distributor, should this be checked with a feeler gauge and the dwell angles? If so how is this done?

Any help is appreciated. The car runs alright at the moment. But the idle seems a little clunky.

Rafael
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Unread 02-26-2010   #2 (permalink)
Joes72/65 is offline GT Member


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Default

I can't go into detail on all your questions, as I would end up writing a book, and I'm sure other forum members would have issues with my methods of setting ignition timing, so I'll just keep it simple. I have a '65 with a 302, so I know exactly what you are dealing with.

#1 Yes. But before you attempt to make any adjustments, you need to check the dwell angle and make adjustments there if necessary. Dwell angle must always be done before timing. I go by the 289 spec of 26-29.5 degrees. You will need a tach/dwell meter.

#2 I have never heard of using a CO2 meter to set the idle mixture. I just use a tach/dwell meter. A good rule is to set each adjustment screw 1.5 turns out as an initial setting, then make adjustments (if needed) from there. Make sure the motor is at normal operating temperature before adjusting.

#3 I don't check bother checking the gap, because the dwell angle is what's important to the ignition system anyway, and a worn distributor cam can make it impossible to have both the gap and dwell angle within limits. Again, you will need a tach/dwell meter.

All of the procedures are in the shop manuals. As I said, I would write a book if I put it all here, and I'd only be plagiarizing the shop manual, anyway. Good luck!
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Unread 02-26-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Default Ignition timing and fuel mixture setting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by raeloneq View Post
Hi guys,

Car: Mustang '66 with a 302.

I'm back. I have 2 questions right now. I did a little work on the distributor point, also replaced dist. cap and condenser. Also I replaced the gaskets on my carburetor again, seems to be working good now (no leaks).

Question #1. Since i did some distributor work, should I check the timing and or set it. If so, how do you set the timing. I've never done it before and you know of a site that gives you step-by-step instruction with pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Answer - - For your situation I would say NO - - leave it alone for now.
Timing a motor requires the use of a timing light. It is pretty simple to do but not if you don't have a timing light. Just so you know - - To check the timing, you make a mark on the damper (lower pulley) with white chalk and then hook up the tim ing light. The timing light is attached by using 2 leads to the battery and then one wire goes to the #1 spark plug wire. You start the motor, and point the timing light towards the pointer near the damper. Then you check the timing and adjust by turning the distributor, For now - I would leave it alone.

Question #2 Since i changed the gaskets and fiddled with the fuel mixture screws should I check this with a CO2 meter? Problem is I dont have a RPM gauge in the car so how do you set those mixture screws properly? Also need a step-by-step instructions on that.

Answer: - - There are several ways to adjust a carb. The first involves the u se of a vacuum gage, They can be purchased for about $20.00. You hook up the vac gage to a port on the intake manifold. The you read the vacuum seting. As you adjust the carb, the vac will increase or decrease depending on your adjustment. You try to get the highest vac reading.
The second method involves the use of a tach or tach and dwell machine. The cost about $50.00. You hook up the tach and read the rpms. You adjust the idle screws until you get the highest rpm. Both idle mixture screws should be turned out about the sam amount,

This last method is the method I would suggest for you.

I hope you know where the idle mixture screws are on your carb. If not post with the type of carb. Turn both mixture screws in to gently seat. The back off both idle screws one and a half turns. Now start the motor, - slowly turn one of the screws out about an additional 1/4 turn. Listen to the motor. If the rpm raises - great. Now do the sam to the other screw. Once again listen to the motor.

Keep doing this until the motor starts to slow down a tiny bit. Then once you are at that point, turn the screw back in 1/4 turn. Both screws should be close to each other as far as the number of turns out.


Question #3 I cleaned the pint on the distributor, should this be checked with a feeler gauge and the dwell angles? If so how is this done?

Answer: - - - The dwell is set using a dwell meter which may or may not be part of a tach and dwelll meter. You attach the meter and read the dwell. On Fords, if the dwell is off, you need to remove the cap and adjust the space between the point contacts. Then you start motor and re-check dwell.

As far as checking or changing the point gap. - - - -
You need to follow several steps.
1. - Remove the distributor cap
2. - Remove rotor fro better access.
3. - Block the wheels
4, - Apply emergency brake
5. - Put car in neutral - -remove key
6. - Rotate the motor by turning the fan and fan belt.

What you want to do - is to get the finger of the points resting on a high point of the rubbing block. When the finger is sitting on a high point, the soace/gap of the points is open. The "gap" is measured using a flat "feeler gage".

Once the "gap is set - - you put the rotor back on and the replace the cap. Then start the car and you should check with a dwell meter.

I know this is a lot of info - - if confused post back

Print Dad

Any help is appreciated. The car runs alright at the moment. But the idle seems a little clunky.

Rafael

I hope the answers show up above
Car: Mustang '66 with a 302.

I'm back. I have 2 questions right now. I did a little work on the distributor point, also replaced dist. cap and condenser. Also I replaced the gaskets on my carburetor again, seems to be working good now (no leaks).

Question #1. Since i did some distributor work, should I check the timing and or set it. If so, how do you set the timing. I've never done it before and you know of a site that gives you step-by-step instruction with pictures would be greatly appreciated.

Answer - - For your situation I would say NO - - leave it alone for now.
Timing a motor requires the use of a timing light. It is pretty simple to do but not if you don't have a timing light. Just so you know - - To check the timing, you make a mark on the damper (lower pulley) with white chalk and then hook up the tim ing light. The timing light is attached by using 2 leads to the battery and then one wire goes to the #1 spark plug wire. You start the motor, and point the timing light towards the pointer near the damper. Then you check the timing and adjust by turning the distributor, For now - I would leave it alone.

Question #2 Since i changed the gaskets and fiddled with the fuel mixture screws should I check this with a CO2 meter? Problem is I dont have a RPM gauge in the car so how do you set those mixture screws properly? Also need a step-by-step instructions on that.

Answer: - - There are several ways to adjust a carb. The first involves the u se of a vacuum gage, They can be purchased for about $20.00. You hook up the vac gage to a port on the intake manifold. The you read the vacuum seting. As you adjust the carb, the vac will increase or decrease depending on your adjustment. You try to get the highest vac reading.
The second method involves the use of a tach or tach and dwell machine. The cost about $50.00. You hook up the tach and read the rpms. You adjust the idle screws until you get the highest rpm. Both idle mixture screws should be turned out about the sam amount,

This last method is the method I would suggest for you.

I hope you know where the idle mixture screws are on your carb. If not post with the type of carb. Turn both mixture screws in to gently seat. The back off both idle screws one and a half turns. Now start the motor, - slowly turn one of the screws out about an additional 1/4 turn. Listen to the motor. If the rpm raises - great. Now do the sam to the other screw. Once again listen to the motor.

Keep doing this until the motor starts to slow down a tiny bit. Then once you are at that point, turn the screw back in 1/4 turn. Both screws should be close to each other as far as the number of turns out.


Question #3 I cleaned the pint on the distributor, should this be checked with a feeler gauge and the dwell angles? If so how is this done?

Answer: - - - The dwell is set using a dwell meter which may or may not be part of a tach and dwelll meter. You attach the meter and read the dwell. On Fords, if the dwell is off, you need to remove the cap and adjust the space between the point contacts. Then you start motor and re-check dwell.

As far as checking or changing the point gap. - - - -
You need to follow several steps.
1. - Remove the distributor cap
2. - Remove rotor fro better access.
3. - Block the wheels
4, - Apply emergency brake
5. - Put car in neutral - -remove key
6. - Rotate the motor by turning the fan and fan belt.

What you want to do - is to get the finger of the points resting on a high point of the rubbing block. When the finger is sitting on a high point, the soace/gap of the points is open. The "gap" is measured using a flat "feeler gage".

Once the "gap is set - - you put the rotor back on and the replace the cap. Then start the car and you should check with a dwell meter.

I know this is a lot of info - - if confused post back

Print Dad
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