Electric choke wiring question - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010 Thread Starter
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Electric choke wiring question

I recently did the wiring on my car with a friend and he keeps insisting that the electric choke can be wired to the battery with an inline fuse but everyone i have talked to says that I should wire it through a keyed accessory fuse in the fuse box. Can anyone verify whether or not I can run the positive wire of the electric choke off the battery with an inline fuse or if I should run it through the fuse box, and if I run it off the fuse box can someone post a picture as to where I should wire it up.

Black 2006 GT T-2 Torsen Diff, 3.73 gears, FRPP 90MM CAI, SCT X-Cal 3 tuner/ Speed Inc. dyno tune, FRPP catbacks, Steeda Triaxe w/ Hurst stick and T handle, SVT strut mounts, FRPP strut brace, Steeda UDP, JBA long tube headers, JBA O/R H-pipe, CHE LCAs, CHE anti-squat brackets, Steeda adj. UCA, Steeda heavy duty engine mounts, FRPP AC delete, Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft, Hotchkis swaybars, Corbeau FX1 Pro

DONE: 1968 Convertible PROJECT candy apple red 289 w/ edelbrock 4bbl 600 cfm
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010
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Definitely NOT off the battery!

If you think it through, it becomes obvious that your choke would be "hot" (electrically and mechanically) at all times. It would always keep the choke open, thinking it was warmed up.

You didn't specifiy the year so I will assume the 66 in your profile. There are several safe ways to get "key on" voltage:"

For many years, Ford hooked it up to the "S" (stator) wire coming off the alternator which varies but delivers about 7 volts at idle. Enough for the factory choke but some carbs prefer the full 12 volts.

You can get this from the primary side of the coil if you do not have a ballast (or on the ignition switch side of the ballast if you do.) **

You can get it from the "I" terminal of the standard Ford starter solenoid. **

You can go to the fuse box and look for a fuse that gets voltage only when the key is on and tap into that wire.

There is a great post on the top of this forum page by pcfrisch that includes lots of schematics for classic mustangs. I have attached one from the 66 showing the ignition wiring. Note the "262" wire going to the "I" side of the solenoid and that it is joined with the "16" wire going to the primary side of the coil.


**Some people don't like to use this method because a shorted choke can take out the power to the coil and kill the engine. A small (5-6) amp in-line fuse can solve this problem.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010 Thread Starter
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Its a 68 listed in my profile. Its an edelbrock 600 cfm carb and the instructions specifically list not to run it off the coil or the solenoid and it does need the full 12 volt source so I think I will try to run it off the fuse box, however im not all that literate when it comes to electrics or reading the diagrams so if anyone could dumb it down for me that would be great.

Black 2006 GT T-2 Torsen Diff, 3.73 gears, FRPP 90MM CAI, SCT X-Cal 3 tuner/ Speed Inc. dyno tune, FRPP catbacks, Steeda Triaxe w/ Hurst stick and T handle, SVT strut mounts, FRPP strut brace, Steeda UDP, JBA long tube headers, JBA O/R H-pipe, CHE LCAs, CHE anti-squat brackets, Steeda adj. UCA, Steeda heavy duty engine mounts, FRPP AC delete, Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft, Hotchkis swaybars, Corbeau FX1 Pro

DONE: 1968 Convertible PROJECT candy apple red 289 w/ edelbrock 4bbl 600 cfm
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010
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SleeperStang07,

Any ignition wire that is hot while key is on will work or the "I" terminal as mentioned before. Go to a parts store and buy a $9.00 test light to check which wires or fuses are hot while the key is in the on position if you don't like reading wire diagrams.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010
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I wired mine through a keyed source in the fuse box. Edelbrocks website also says to do it this way. Whatever you do, dont wire it to the coil. Sapping electricity from the coil will make the car run like it has a potato stuffed in the tail pipe. Ask me how I know
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-30-2010
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Running a wire from the "I" terminal of the solenoid is the same as running it off the coil - don't do it!
You can run it of the "IGN" terminal of the switch or any wire that runs from that terminal other than the actual ignition wire to the coil. Do not run it off an accessory wire - one that is "ON" when the switch is in the accessory position.
Both the Edelbrock and Holley carbs need the full battery volts. The Ford carbs connect to the stator wire on the alternator - but it is not a full 12volts.

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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-01-2010
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i spliced it into the hot side of the blower motor under the hood,it works great and is fused.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-01-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butchd88 View Post
i spliced it into the hot side of the blower motor under the hood,it works great and is fused.
Thanks, I think im going to try this one.

Black 2006 GT T-2 Torsen Diff, 3.73 gears, FRPP 90MM CAI, SCT X-Cal 3 tuner/ Speed Inc. dyno tune, FRPP catbacks, Steeda Triaxe w/ Hurst stick and T handle, SVT strut mounts, FRPP strut brace, Steeda UDP, JBA long tube headers, JBA O/R H-pipe, CHE LCAs, CHE anti-squat brackets, Steeda adj. UCA, Steeda heavy duty engine mounts, FRPP AC delete, Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft, Hotchkis swaybars, Corbeau FX1 Pro

DONE: 1968 Convertible PROJECT candy apple red 289 w/ edelbrock 4bbl 600 cfm
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