289 2v to 4v swap help - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010 Thread Starter
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289 2v to 4v swap help

Hi,

It seems that the rough idle and other problems I've been experiencing have finally been traced to a problem with the carb. Not the valves/heads. (Thankfully).

You guys have been a great help. I'm going to take your advice and approach the work on my engine by upgrading my manifold and carb first.

I'll be changing from an autolite 2100 to a 4100. Can you double check my parts list and maybe offer some advice on the swap?

4100 carb
4V manifold
Manifold gaskets (Ford racing)
Manifold bolts
Carb spacer and gaskets (above and below)
Thermostat (I'm going with 160 for my w/e driver)
Thermostat housing with gaskets and hardware
Heater hose fitting
Temperature sensor (or can I re-use the one from my 2V?)
"Right Stuff" gasket maker for the front and back of the manifold
3M black gasket adhesive for the sides

Also, there's what looks like a vacuum tree with a brass fitting behind the carb. Can I reuse that from my 2V manifold...or should I buy new? If new, what is that part called?

Thanks again!
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010
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Did you get an OEM spacer with the PCV port at the rear?

Also hope you got a correct 4100. They were not all created equal. Post a carb number if you are not sure. Complaints abound when either BB carbs or California smog carbs are used.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010
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289 2v to 4v swap help

Hello cuddyk,
In addition to Booms advice - -here is a couple of things

1. - You can re-use the vaccum port (tree) from the 2 barrel

2. - I would advise going with a higher thermostat. Try 180. The motor
will run cooler

3. - You could re-use the temp sending unit - - BUT they are cheap (under $8.00) so I would change that to save trouble later on.

I think your on your way just fine. Best of luck with the build

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boomyal View Post
Did you get an OEM spacer with the PCV port at the rear?

Also hope you got a correct 4100. They were not all created equal. Post a carb number if you are not sure. Complaints abound when either BB carbs or California smog carbs are used.
Hi Boomyal...

Here's the carb info..C5ZF-D 1.08 Venturi #48f + #58f Jets 1.08 / 480 CFM. Fingers crossed...

The spacer is from cjpony: INTAKE MANIFOLD SPACER 289,302 351w 4v 1965-1969 - CJ Pony Parts, Inc.

It appears to have the PCV port and the bushing.

Thanks for the encouraging words, PD! What procedure do you recommend for putting the adhesive on the gaskets. should they be adhered to the block and not on the manifold side? Or do I glue it all up? Seems like if I did the manifold would be really difficult to remove later.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010
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289 2v to 4v swap help

Hello cuddyk,
In my opinion the use of sealant on the top of the gaskets is optional. It will not hurt to put a little but very sparingly. You want to seal the gasket to the head to help keep it from moving when placing on the intake.

As a side note - - What you can do to make the job a little smoother and fit right is to get 2 long bolts about 4 inches in length (the same size as the intake bolts.
Cut off the head of the bolts and cut a slot across the bolt thread top.
Let me explain - when you cut the bolt head off, you are left with just a threaded rod.
Now at the top of the rod, cut a slot to be used much like a screw.

Take on of the bolts and put it on the front of the pass head and the other on the rear of the driver head. These bolts will go into the holes that the intake bolts to.

Now place the gaskets (glued on bottom) to the head. position all gaskets. Run a little extra bead of sealer in the corners of the front and back gasket. These are the skinny gaskets about 3/8 inch wide. Use a little sealer under the front and back gasket in the corners where the gasket meets the head. After placing the gaskets, put a dab of sealant on the corners of the front and back gasket on the top.

Now you should have the 2 bolts just finger tight into the block and the gaskets placed. A little extra sealant in the corners (4).

Now you place the clean intake over the bolts you cut and gently place down in position. This will assure you have a nice fit and you won't knock off the front and rear gasket.

Lastly - - start putting in the intake bolts. After you have a few in place - - remove the bolts you cut and put in the correct bolts.

Be certain to follow the torque sequence when torquing down the intake.
Take the intake down with a torque wrench in about 3 stages. In other words.

Tighten the bolts to 10 ft/lb. Then go around the sequence and tighten to 15 and repeat till at final torque which I think is about 22 ft/lbs

Here is a link that shows the sequence. Look at page 3

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_.../2000/2121.pdf

I think you'll be fine, just take it slow. Don't overdue the sealant. A little extra in the corners and when tightening, take your time and follow the sequence.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010 Thread Starter
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Thanks so much, Print Dad! All great advice which I will follow to the letter. Now, if only Boomyal can give the thumbs up to my carb, all will be well! I probably won't have all the parts until next week. Will post pics of the process and let you know how it goes.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010
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The carb you have is exactly what I'm running on my 289. I have the 1.08 venturi with the same size jets as yours.

I used all the fittings that were on my 2v intake & like was said, 180 t-stat..........

Since doing the swap, I've even noticed an improvement on gas mileage. My 2100 carb had bigger jets than the 4100 primary jets.

Car runs a whole lot better......
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010 Thread Starter
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Great to hear, '66...now I can't wait till all the parts arrive and I can get my hands dirty.
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