1966 Mustang Transmission options - Ford Mustang Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang Transmission options

Hello mustang lovers,

I am going to go direct to the point. I know that new cars have transmission that can let you shift manually and also can let you use automatic option. Is there a transmission, such as mentioned, out there that I can use to my 66 mustang? Is it a major job? Any members gone with that road? Suggestions will be much appreciated. Thank you.

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010
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All auto trans will let you manually shift them.Just look at the shifter if it says 1 2 then drive well you got 3 speeds drive will be 3rd gear.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010
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Here's a good auto trans website:
Click Click Racing Forums

I'm installing a medium built AOD and had a better valve body built by Home
for a better shift pattern and the ability to hold the rpm's longer at WOT. I will be able to manually shift and lock out OD for track days.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post
All auto trans will let you manually shift them.Just look at the shifter if it says 1 2 then drive well you got 3 speeds drive will be 3rd gear.
I only have a C4.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010
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Andrews example would be a C4, auto trans, they have 3 speeds and your shifter bezel should show 1,2,D(3rd).

If you are in park and you put it in 1 your car will accelerate and the RPM's will continue to climb until you shift it or burn it out (5-6-7K, etc. depending on what your motor/trans can handle), meaning you're going to want to shift before the RPM's get too high or the engine will be screaming and when you do shift get ready for a hard shift.

I wouldn't suggest manually shifting much past 3500 on a stock motor to start with if you don't want to stress the trans and practice at low RPM's like 3-3500K. You simply start out in 1 and when you get to the RPM you want to shift at push the handle forward to 2, then when the RPM's climb again push it to D (3rd).

IF you plan to do it often I'd invest in a built trans. with a better valve body.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonk67 View Post
Andrews example would be a C4, auto trans, they have 3 speeds and your shifter bezel should show 1,2,D(3rd).

If you are in park and you put it in 1 your car will accelerate and the RPM's will continue to climb until you shift it or burn it out (5-6-7K, etc. depending on what your motor/trans can handle), meaning you're going to want to shift before the RPM's get too high or the engine will be screaming and when you do shift get ready for a hard shift.

I wouldn't suggest manually shifting much past 3500 on a stock motor to start with if you don't want to stress the trans and practice at low RPM's like 3-3500K. You simply start out in 1 and when you get to the RPM you want to shift at push the handle forward to 2, then when the RPM's climb again push it to D (3rd).

IF you plan to do it often I'd invest in a built trans. with a better valve body.
Jon
Thank you for the input. If my car was manual, would it be easier to replace it with a different tranny (t5, tko, and etc). Thanks again.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010
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Yes it would be easier to swap an original manual 3 or 4 speed for a newer 5sp. just because you would already have the clutch linkage, Zbar, etc. in place, plus you'd have the 2 pedals/hanger for a manual vs. 1 pedal auto.
However plenty of people have converted auto cars to manual, I think some of the mustang parts suppliers sell kits to do this, check Mustangs Unlimited, NPD, etc.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Yeah I been researching on the process involved. Im seeing alot of websites but damn, I wish mine already a manual. But, can't cry over spilled milk. I found a website that states t5 is the easiest. Anything above it (tko, t56, and etc) is a major surgery. I don't know if that is a credible website. Thank you.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-20-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zhlange View Post
Yeah I been researching on the process involved. Im seeing alot of websites but damn, I wish mine already a manual. But, can't cry over spilled milk. I found a website that states t5 is the easiest. Anything above it (tko, t56, and etc) is a major surgery. I don't know if that is a credible website. Thank you.
And, how does a stall converter or torque converter works? I know they are two different items.

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Your 66 Mustang came with a C4. You can replace the valve body with a 67 - 69 valve body and install a TransGo Reprogramming Kit #47-2 and hold 1st and 2nd to any speed and downshift manually to 2nd or 1st at any speed - giving you manual control over 1st and 2nd.
A torque converter and stall converter are the same thing - they are both torque converters. The "stall converter" simply has a higher stall speed than a stock torque converter. A stall converter generates more heat because it "slips" more than a stock converter. It may be more difficult to find a stall converter for your C4 becaust it uses the early "small" input shaft which is not generally considered a performance part. You can get around the problem by swapping to a 70 or later (I recommend 73 - 79) C4 and converter. It will be a direct swap as long as it is from a 250" six or a 302. If you want a transmission that you must shift then you can get a manual valve body (not normally recommended for the street) from Broader Performance. Or get a completely modified C4 from them with a manual valve body for $850. (use your bellhousing and supply a converter) The Broader C4 is built for up to 500 HP so it should be great for any 302 not running nitrous. Jay, the proprietor can supply converters with any stall you need at a very good price. You should run a large cooler with any modified C4.

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rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-21-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulS View Post
Your 66 Mustang came with a C4. You can replace the valve body with a 67 - 69 valve body and install a TransGo Reprogramming Kit #47-2 and hold 1st and 2nd to any speed and downshift manually to 2nd or 1st at any speed - giving you manual control over 1st and 2nd.
A torque converter and stall converter are the same thing - they are both torque converters. The "stall converter" simply has a higher stall speed than a stock torque converter. A stall converter generates more heat because it "slips" more than a stock converter. It may be more difficult to find a stall converter for your C4 becaust it uses the early "small" input shaft which is not generally considered a performance part. You can get around the problem by swapping to a 70 or later (I recommend 73 - 79) C4 and converter. It will be a direct swap as long as it is from a 250" six or a 302. If you want a transmission that you must shift then you can get a manual valve body (not normally recommended for the street) from Broader Performance. Or get a completely modified C4 from them with a manual valve body for $850. (use your bellhousing and supply a converter) The Broader C4 is built for up to 500 HP so it should be great for any 302 not running nitrous. Jay, the proprietor can supply converters with any stall you need at a very good price. You should run a large cooler with any modified C4.
Thanks PaulS. You've been helpful to noobs like me. The plan was actually for a manual tranny swap (like a T5). But, along the way, I have realized it is a big job. I am planning to do put this thing together myself and I am not that mechanically incline. SO, the T5 swap is almost out of the window. I was reading about AOD but I haven't got alot of info from it, yet.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by zhlange View Post
Thanks PaulS. You've been helpful to noobs like me. The plan was actually for a manual tranny swap (like a T5). But, along the way, I have realized it is a big job. I am planning to do put this thing together myself and I am not that mechanically incline. SO, the T5 swap is almost out of the window. I was reading about AOD but I haven't got alot of info from it, yet.
The swap from a C4 to an AOD is more challenging than to a four speed manual, at least technically. It will also involve new rear gears, replacing the kick-down linkage with throttle pressure cable, a different or fabricated crossmember and possibly a shortened driveline.
A well built C4 will handle 500 hp on the street and last 20 years with proper maintenance.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-21-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulS View Post
The swap from a C4 to an AOD is more challenging than to a four speed manual, at least technically. It will also involve new rear gears, replacing the kick-down linkage with throttle pressure cable, a different or fabricated crossmember and possibly a shortened driveline.
A well built C4 will handle 500 hp on the street and last 20 years with proper maintenance.
Well don't you have to install pedals and clutch kit (cable or hydraulic)? I just thought that auto to manual is harder. Can you suggest any company that offers good rebuild products for a C4?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulS View Post
If you want a transmission that you must shift then you can get a manual valve body (not normally recommended for the street) from Broader Performance. Or get a completely modified C4 from them with a manual valve body for $850. (use your bellhousing and supply a converter) The Broader C4 is built for up to 500 HP so it should be great for any 302 not running nitrous. Jay, the proprietor can supply converters with any stall you need at a very good price. You should run a large cooler with any modified C4.
He did suggest a place in his above post with link -http://www.broaderperformance.com/

I think your shortest route would be as Paul suggested and just get a built C4 and whatever converter they suggest for the type of driving you plan to do, give them a call and they will discuss. Otherwise you'll have to piecemeal it as Paul also noted by upgrading yours with a later valve body and transgo kit, this way is cheaper but you're still using your old C4 vs. new purpose built.
Jon

'67 Coupe 289 stroked to 333, AOD, 9" w/3.50:1, PDB, Candyapple red w/red deluxe int., PS, ext. decor group, light group, foxbody seats.
'09 Black Warriors In Pink with glass roof - the wifes Mustang.
"If it ain't broke, I haven't fixed it yet" -Jon
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Quote:
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Yeah I been researching on the process involved. Im seeing alot of websites but damn, I wish mine already a manual. But, can't cry over spilled milk. I found a website that states t5 is the easiest. Anything above it (tko, t56, and etc) is a major surgery. I don't know if that is a credible website. Thank you.

The T5 swap is by far the cheapest and easiest as far as switching from automatic over to manual goes. The T5 is smaller than the TKO and both the T5 and TKO are smaller than the T56 6-speeds.

With a TKO prepped by us, the only modification you have to do to the car is to massage the stiffener rib that runs from the drivers side floor pan, through the tunnel, over to the passenger side floor pan. Where that ribs goes through the peak of the tunnel, you have to massage about a 6" section of it for the top access covers of the TKO to clear it. There is no actual cutting of the tunnel though.

The T56 requires the use of adjustable engine mounts and cross member as well as the massaging of the rib in order to fit without cutting.

If you'd like more info on a swap to a 5-speed, PM me. We are site sponsors on here and have been doing these conversions for almost 10 years now. We have it down to a science. :hihi:

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