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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 09-26-2010   #1 (permalink)
fasterthenev is offline Apprentice

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Default top end kit for 302?

do the hp/tq numbers sound right with this combo?
Edelbrock 2091 - Edelbrock Power Package Top-End Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com
my goal is to be around 400hp...
if these look correct do you think it could also stand a small shot of nitrous like 50 or 75?
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Unread 09-26-2010   #2 (permalink)
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Those edelbrock kits are really good but as far as nitrous goes its all about the bottom end of the engine. Really should be forged pistons and rods if you do more than a 75 shot i would think.
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Unread 09-27-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Default 302 looking for 400+

what would it take to get my 1973 mustang 302 up to 400+hp?
if i do a weiand 174 blower will i need to change the internals?
anyway to do with without changing the internals?(i have a rebuilt block)
I need this to be reliable for years
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Unread 09-27-2010   #4 (permalink)
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Depends your compression ratio if you can run a blower or not.
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Unread 09-27-2010   #5 (permalink)
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I just got this top end kit for my 302. Have yet to install it though.
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Unread 09-27-2010   #6 (permalink)
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edelbrock.. got a holley carb too
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Unread 09-27-2010   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fasterthenev View Post
what would it take to get my 1973 mustang 302 up to 400+hp?
if i do a weiand 174 blower will i need to change the internals?
anyway to do with without changing the internals?(i have a rebuilt block)
I need this to be reliable for years
If you need it to be reliable for years build it back to stock.
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Unread 09-27-2010   #8 (permalink)
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Pig's right. The only way it would be reliable for years is if you did not need to depend on it. 400 hp pushes the limits of a 302. It can be done, but it's life will not be as long as a mildly built stock 302.
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Unread 09-27-2010   #9 (permalink)
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Any power adder places a high load on the crank, rods and pistons. You should use forged, high strength, low weight components. For a blower or turbo-charger you get more out of any given boost with higher cylinder volume (not swept volume) so you start with a lower compression to get higher hp with boost. 8:1 compression is a good average for a street blower application. With a blower it can be easy to get 1.5 hp per cubic inch at rpm where it won't destroy a well prepped engine (5000 - 5500). You can do the same with a turbo but the turbo has to be carefully matched to get maximum boost from idle to full rpm like the blower provides. Both systems need an engine built from the bottom up and well matched to get the power. It is not something I would recommend for a novice to attempt on his (her) own.
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Unread 09-28-2010   #10 (permalink)
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400hp i would be scared of a oem block aftermaket cost more but won't blow apart as easy.
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