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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 10-07-2010   #1 (permalink)
bravoman is offline Apprentice

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Default 1965- best way to bleed brakes?

time to work on the brakes. Has anyone used the cheap $4 plastic container with the one way valve to bleed the brakes? Im doing the job solo, I see a more expensive brake bleeder for 25$ with some type of hand pump.guage. Will I need that instead?

Also, I can fit a socket over the bleed valve because the spindle is in the way, I assume Ill need a box wrench, does anyone know the size?
any reccommendations or potential problems I should be aware of.

thanks
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Unread 10-07-2010   #2 (permalink)
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i just installed line lock on my stang and also had to bleed the brakes. im a big fan of start cheap, so i got the cheap little speed bleeders (one way valves) and they worked like a charm the only thing you have to worry about is holding the brake pedal down about half way. or your going to have very touchy brakes.

as for the wrench, i cant remember the size but a wrench worked perfectly
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Unread 10-07-2010   #3 (permalink)
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Wrench size depends on the bleeder. Either 1/4, 5/16 or maybe 3/8.
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Unread 10-07-2010   #4 (permalink)
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I use the vacuum pump by Mityvac. I can bleed the brakes easily by myself and the entire job goes pretty quickly. The pump comes complete with adapters so you can use it on many different applications. The pump has other uses besides brake bleeding and is a nice addition to your tool box.

For brake bleeding, you'll need a box wrench with some kind of offset. The rears are 3/8", the fronts are 1/4". Start with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder. The sequence should be RR, LR, RF, LF.

Good Luck!
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Last edited by 65 Fixup; 10-07-2010 at 11:28 AM. Reason: correct wrench size
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Unread 10-07-2010   #5 (permalink)
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I have done many a brake job and have always gone with the old fashion having someone in the car and "pump it up" .... "hold it down" If you have to do it by yourself then the vaccuum pump like 65 fixup shows is the way to go. I have been able to get a pretty decent pedal with a simple gravity bleed as well. Simply fill the master cylinder and leave the cover off. Then open all the bleeders strating from the RR, then LR, RF, LF, let fluid run out until you get steady flow and then tighten them up in that order. Top of the master and you should have a pretty firm pedal.
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Unread 10-08-2010   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bravoman View Post
time to work on the brakes. Has anyone used the cheap $4 plastic container with the one way valve to bleed the brakes?
Yeah, I've used that technique. It works basically the same as a speed bleeder valve, as long as there is some fluid in the bottom of the container. So it allows fluid and air to be ejected out but only sucks back in fluid (when pedal is released). As with any bleed technique, it works best when depressing the pedal SLOWLY. Perhaps even waiting a few seconds before releasing it so the air that was ejected gets away from being sucked back up the tube.

However, I found it only worked marginally well and had a few connections that weren't air tight (from the bleeder to the hose). Naturally air got pulled back in at those times. But when you're working alone late at night and can't get a helper, at least it allows you to accomplish the goal by yourself!
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Unread 10-09-2010   #7 (permalink)
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My step dad uses a old clean 20 oz water bottle with a hole in the lid.It has a long hose and some brake fluid in it.Open the bleeder shove the hose on it and pump the brake tell you don't see any bubbles in it anymore.The pump bleeders just push the air up in to the master cylinder they work good too.
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