How to make my 302 faster - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010 Thread Starter
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How to make my 302 faster

My rebuilt 302 is decently quick in my '68, but I was hoping for some tips on how to make it even faster.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010
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You will need to give some info on what it has now, before anyone can give you ideas about what else to do.

1969 Boss 302 (Vintage Race Car) Calypso Coral
2012 GT, Grabber Blue, 3.73, Brembo
1967 Coupe, 5-speed, Grabber Orange
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010 Thread Starter
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Other than the 650 Edelbrock carburetor nothing's been done for performance
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010
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a mild cam and headers would wake up that motor pretty good
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010
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Start by adding compression. You can do this by having the heads milled but you won't get a big jump in compression doing that but you can go from the 8.5 to 9:1. If you have stock rear end gears then you will need a cam that gets a lot of torque down low - similar to the Edelbrock "Performer" cam specs.
If you are running a C4 transmission then adding a TransGo Reprogramming kit (47-2 for 67-69 or 40-2 for 70 and later).
That combination should provide you with a smile when you drive it.
Some additional money can be spent on getting the distributor advance curve taylored to your engine and driving style and some 3.55 gears installed in the rear end.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010
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Heads are the biggest HP maker you can throw on any 302. Even with a stock cam intake and that 650 carb it will add more power than almost any other individual mod, its just the price tag that holds most people back.
You could easily add 40-50hp with a decent set of heads alone, and without investing in almost anything else. Heads are great because they only flow what you supply them with, so if you stay mild on the intake and exhaust then the heads will only flow the maximum that both systems can create, and it sets the stage for future mods that will only complement and go from mild to wild in no time. With a stock cam and mild carb and just headers there should be no drawbacks whatsoever, vacum should remain plentiful and you should not lose any compression or sacrafice low or high end power if the heads you choose are conservative size on chambers and valve sizes.

95' GT. GT40X heads. XE264HR with 1.7RR. 4.10 Gears. SCT 4bank with Bama mail order tune removed....Quarterhorse soon.

I like junkyard swaps and budget building. Mods done on the cheap with bone yard parts:

Explorer Intake swap.
Used original cobra 1.7RR's
Fox valve covers
PBR brake swap.
4R70W Swap from 3.8, then beefed up with internals from Explorer.
31 spline T-loc from Explorer as well.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-27-2010 Thread Starter
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Now are you talking about new 302 heads or like 351 Cleveland heads?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010
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Adding heads will open the engine up for better breathing if you are going to turn the engine fast enough to flow the that amount. Putting AFR165 heads on an otherwise stock motor will not add much power to the engine. If you add a new manifold that matches the flow, a carb that matches and headers and an exhaust then you will get the added hp.
The Internalk Combustion engine is a group of sub-systems that have to work together to pump air and heat efficiently to make power. No one part is a magic bullet to more power.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-28-2010
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Heads, intake manifold, headers, retard the timing about 10 degrees, the list can go on and on and on and on and on! All depends on how deep your wallet is.
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Remember there are (three parts) to your drive train which a lot of people forget they build the motor and expect the world it just doesn't happen. don't get me wrong you will get more power but you will get a lot more power by building all three together (a combination). If money is a problem then I would and do start of with the rear diff gear ratio.Its the cheapest way to start off, and you will get more torque for your money. As they say bang for your buck. :hihi: Hey but most people like bling bling on there motor and that's all that matters to them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sweethotrods View Post
Remember there are (three parts) to your drive train which a lot of people forget they build the motor and expect the world it just doesn't happen. don't get me wrong you will get more power but you will get a lot more power by building all three together (a combination). If money is a problem then I would and do start of with the rear diff gear ratio.Its the cheapest way to start off, and you will get more torque for your money. As they say bang for your buck. :hihi: Hey but most people like bling bling on there motor and that's all that matters to them.
excellent point!

95' GT. GT40X heads. XE264HR with 1.7RR. 4.10 Gears. SCT 4bank with Bama mail order tune removed....Quarterhorse soon.

I like junkyard swaps and budget building. Mods done on the cheap with bone yard parts:

Explorer Intake swap.
Used original cobra 1.7RR's
Fox valve covers
PBR brake swap.
4R70W Swap from 3.8, then beefed up with internals from Explorer.
31 spline T-loc from Explorer as well.
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