What spark plugs do you use? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010 Thread Starter
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What spark plugs do you use?

1966 mustang, inline 6

I have some free time on my hands, its winter here so my car is not going to be on the road all that much, i figured what better time for a tune up.

If it matters, im eventualy planing on repacing my points with under cap electronic ignition.

SO, let me know what you use, what you would recommend.

And if you you prefer a certian type, like diamond fire, tripple fire,... etc.

Thanks everyone

1966 Mustang I6
1984 Mustang GT 5.0
2005 Mustang V6
2011 Boss 302....only when i close my eyes
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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Hi,
I'll chime in with....,
First, I'm running a Jacobs CD box, an OEM dizzy with a Pertronix. My plugs are Autolite 3924s. Gapped at .045". These are the small base plugs in TW heads.
Nothing exotic, they burn clean and have been working well.

Ken
Severna Park, MD
1964 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt Resto-Mod
333 cu.in, dual Webers, CI cam, TW heads,TRI-Ys, 3.55 rear, T5z, TCP susp., real leather seating
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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I was told not to use Platinums by the parts store dude. He said a regular resistor plug if you're running stock ignition. Not sure if he's full of it or not, any inputs on that?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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I have always run autolites in my in-line 6 nothing fancy just standard autolite plugs...I am interested in what others are using in their I-6 especially if any are using some of the proclaimed higher efficiency plugs.

I switched to the petronix electronic ignition several years back I love it No more point replacement or adjustments! I have seen mixed reviews on Petronix but my experience has been good...

I also put in a more modern coil pretty sure I used a Accel super stack model I believe it helped my idle
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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Autolite plugs have always been the best in my car and they are also the most economical. I run a set of plugs for two years on my daily driver (classic) with no perceptably reduction in performance. When I change them the gap is around .040" which means it has grown .012" in the two years. (Yes I gap my plugs at .028" - it works best for me) The plugs cost right around a dollar each. You don't get that kind of service out of any other plug on a daily driver - not that I have ever seen anyway.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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i just use standard champions, they are what edelbrock said to use in their Performer RPM's

1968, 302 .030 / Comp Cams Magnum 270h #31-414-3 501 lift @ .050 dur 224/224
Comp Cams Magnum Lifters and Pushrods Comp Cams 1.6 Full Roller Rockers
Edelbrock RPM heads (2.02 / 1.60) / RPM Air Gap
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MSD Pro billet Dizzy, 6AL Box, Blaster 2 Coil
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulS View Post
Autolite plugs have always been the best in my car and they are also the most economical. I run a set of plugs for two years on my daily driver (classic) with no perceptably reduction in performance. When I change them the gap is around .040" which means it has grown .012" in the two years. (Yes I gap my plugs at .028" - it works best for me) The plugs cost right around a dollar each. You don't get that kind of service out of any other plug on a daily driver - not that I have ever seen anyway.
That's interesting. .012" is a huge differance; almost 50%. Especially in only 2 years. That means your spark is so hot, that it's melting away the electrodes - eating them up.

I think there's a reason that no manufacturer that I know of recommends a gap so small.

But, I do agree that standard Autolite copper cores are the best bang for the buck.

.boB
'08 V6 Pony
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010
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There are engines that won't run with plug gaps larger than .022" - I think its a Mitsubishi 4 cylinder - carbureted. but there are others. When I used to race we would reduce the plug gap until we got a rough idle and then increase it until the idle smoothed out. That made the spark stonger all the way up in the rpm range. It also keeps the voltage down so wires last longer. The best reason for the small gap is (with points ignition) that the amperage goes up the same percentage that the voltage goes down. That amperage is heat - and heat ignites your fuel - not voltage! The spark won't have any difficulty with the turbulance "blowing the spark out" with small gaps. I get 21 mpg with my 302 C4 with 100000+ miles. The more compression you have the more important this is.
Modern electronic ignitions use an amplifier that increases amperage and voltage rise so it is less important to have a small gap. Even at that, small gaps never hurt - and they will still reduce your voltage so your plug wires will last longer than with a wide gap.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LFugate View Post
I was told not to use Platinums by the parts store dude. He said a regular resistor plug if you're running stock ignition. Not sure if he's full of it or not, any inputs on that?
I think this guy is messing with you, platinum plugs have an increased longevity, i see no reason why they shouldnt be used in stock engines.

1966 Mustang I6
1984 Mustang GT 5.0
2005 Mustang V6
2011 Boss 302....only when i close my eyes
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-03-2010 Thread Starter
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Does anyone know if there is any benefit to diffrent configurations of spark plugs.
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1966 Mustang I6
1984 Mustang GT 5.0
2005 Mustang V6
2011 Boss 302....only when i close my eyes
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Muffin View Post
i just use standard champions, they are what edelbrock said to use in their Performer RPM's
I quit using Champions a long time ago - they did not hold up as well back when you use to change plugs/points every year/12000 miles.

They did seem to do a little better in my friends 327 Chevy, but he eventually ditched them also.

Beri Fraley
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If you find yourself in a fair fight, you haven't been trained properly.
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What's the difference between a resister plug and a non-resister plug (other than one having a higher resistance, of course) and which is best for a stock ignition?

Joe
'65 Coupe, 302, Autolite 4100, C4, 2.80
'72 Grande, 351C, Motorcraft 2100, FMX, 2.75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger1475 View Post
Does anyone know if there is any benefit to diffrent configurations of spark plugs.
With stock ignition and stock engines there are no benefit to expensive configurations.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joes72/65 View Post
What's the difference between a resister plug and a non-resister plug (other than one having a higher resistance, of course) and which is best for a stock ignition?
If you like to listen to your stereo/radio without having it buzz in relation to your engine rpm, resistor plugs are better. Non-resistor plugs are for cars without radios or guys who use the buzz as a tach.

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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