Terry - the pickle fork is a Chevy tool - you do not need them on a Ford.
Sorry, but this is just bad information. To merely state that it's not needed without suggesting another tool to use implies that once the tie rod nuts or other ball joint nuts are remove the joint comes right apart, which is not the case. I'm sure what you're probably going after is that pickle forks were not recommended for use on Fords. If you have nothing else to use, gentle taps on the pickle fork will knock lose most, if not all, of the ball joint connections. It especially doesn't matter on the ball joint or tie rod anyways if they're going to be replaced, but is for sure less damaging than pounding on the stud with a hammer to knock the joint out.
To the original poster, I'd recommend polyurethane bushings with graphite. The graphite was initially intended to make them softer but it was found to be more beneficial in that it reduced squeak. Polyurethane is considered a 'performance' bushing as they are a little stiffer than rubber and they'll last much longer too. I went with polyurethane bushings all around and Moog joints.
You can get the bushings from Performance Suspension Technology
or Suspension.com. Bruce at Suspension.com is a Mustang suspension expert who used to design sway bars for them a long time ago, and occassionally he'd bump elbows with Shelby and Arning. He is also the original creator of polyurethane bushings, when he originally started using the material as roller skate wheels. He's very helpful to talk to.
If I were to do it again I'd probably go with PST just because their package comes with everything you need and you don't have to buy the components individually like you do at Suspension, which ended up costing me a little bit more. But for my first suspension job, Suspension was probably best because I wouldn't have got the expert support from PST.
Anyways, components you will want to replace if doing a complete suspension job in the front:
--new tie rod ends, inner and out (pay the premium to go Moog here)
--New upper control arm shaft and bushings (the original one tends to oval out).
--new bushings for upper control arm coil spring perch
--new bushings for lower control arm (you can't replace the ball joint however, so you may be better of just getting new lower control arms that come with new ball joint and bushings)
--new upper control arm ball joint
--new sway bar bushings and endlinks (you should really consider upgrading to a larger sway bar too, it will improve handling substantially)
--new coil spring insulator
--new coil spring (620 spring 1" shorter offers some handling benefit)
--new front strut rod bushings
Whew...I think I remembered it all. Note the use of polyurethane bushings on the front strut rod bushings is a point of controversy because people contend that the bushing is too hard for the strut rod and will snap it. I would suggest anyone to give Bruce at suspension.com a call, and he'll give you an earful for an hour as to why this is completely substantiated. A mustang enthusiast himself, he wouldn't sell a product if it was dangerous, and still says to this day that if he sees proof of this claim, he'll stop selling it. The strut rod is spring steel and opposite force applied to it from a polyurethane bushing is is not mechanically strong enough on its own to snap spring steel.