1969 Mustang 250 4.1L Inline 6 Questions - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011 Thread Starter
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1969 Mustang 250 4.1L Inline 6 Questions

Hello everyone,
I'm new here but I'd like to share with you what I've recently gotten into.

Attached is a picture of my first project car.
1969 Mustang 4.1L 250 Inline 6, Factory.

I've don't alot to get her to run and lately it's been frustrating, haha like we all haven't been there.

Well, I've replaced alot of parts so far including:
  • battery
  • starter
  • starter relay
  • carburetor
  • fuel pump/filter
  • condenser and points
  • coil
But right after getting the new carb on and trying to crank her up, she finally runs. I got 2-3 starts on her because it kept dying, I had to adjust the idle.

Well I went to try to start it again, and nothing but a click, so I figured the battery must of died, well replaced it with another new battery, and still the same thing.

I head one click then nothing. And sometimes not even that. I believe someone in the wiring is messed up, I don't know where tho.

Recently I also come to find, My intake and head are integrated. but I've been planning on going a dual carb intake system.
Now I'm stumped, I don't know if I should continue on the inline 6 and forking out for a new heads and intake. or just going the ever so common v8 route, and if I do, I'm not sure what I'd want.

What are your guy's opinion on this matter? (both my starting problem and the motor swap)
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011
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As far as the inline 6, you can keep the original head and still run dual carbs. A machine shop will be able to mill the head and weld on the needed adapers to run multiple carbs. Check out classic inlines, clifford performance, and ford six.

Good luck getting your car running.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011
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First of all Welcome. I would love to have your Mustang. I looked for a 69 250ci for my son and was unable to find one. I would start by checking your battery cables, especially the ground to engine and connection to starter. Click means solenoid relay is energizing. Purchase the Ford Falcon Performance Handbook and it will take you thru step by step of your options for the I6. classicinlines.com is a good site, take some time and read the tech section fully.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011 Thread Starter
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Thank you thank you both of you,
I've contacted classicinlines and clifford proformance about my issue just waiting on a reply back.

Hmm Ill check those lines for sure, I've already ran another ground for the battery to the chassis, just to see if that would help.
I should probably just put out to just get knew battery and grounding wires to have better connection and voltage regulation.

But I also fear it may be something like one of the wiring harness, relays, ignition switch it's self.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011
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I would test things before purchasing new parts. If your car budget is like mine, I cannot afford to replace all parts of a system, only the defective one. There are many knowledgeable people on here that can help you solve this and any other problem you have with your Mustang.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011
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Grounding to frame and to firewall is a good practice, however it's really "bonding" everything together. The #1 ground is straight from battery to engine block for the starter.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-03-2011
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Welcome to the forum. I agree with yerdonrw in that I would check all part involve before replacing anything. I would start by making sure the wire from the starter relay to the starter is tight on both ends then try bypassing the starter relay to see if the starter will turn over.

Dare to be DIFFERENT. Stay INLINE

1966 Mustang Vert., 200 CID I6, Autolite 1100, Pertronix Ignitor I, Candy Apple Red, black interior, black power top with glass rear window, C4 Auto Trans, Scarebird 4 lug front disc brake conversion, dual master cylinder, LED dash, park and tail lights.

1976 Cobra II, 302 CID, C4 auto trans. Blackjack headers, white with blue stripe and blue interior. Restoration process.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011 Thread Starter
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Roger, I decided to make it look a little nicer under the hood and replaced wires for the:
  • battery to block
  • battery to switch
  • switch to starter
  • starter to firewall
Looks clean and nice now. I'm not quite sure if the firewall is really a ground tho, It just seems like a wood type material? O.o
This normal?

I've had the starter tested before all this, it's good, I've connected it directly to the battery as well you can hear it spinning down there.

I got the multimeter and test light for finding the electrical problem.

I'm just not really sure where and what I need to check to see what's going wrong in the wireing.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011
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On the starter relay: 12v is applied to the "S" term to close the circuit powering the starter. Should have the 12v when key is turned to start position. If not, suspect ignition switch. If voltage is fine, the relay will click when closing and should have 12v to starter, if not , bad starter relay. Lets get it turning over first. Starters can run laying on a bench, but not turn the engine due to the load. So still possibly a starter problem.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011 Thread Starter
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I've checked it once when it all started to happen and I had that one single clock at the relay, I had 12v then. But now it doesn't even click, I gotta get someone to turn the key for me to check right now tho.
It's a new relay in there, the 2nd new one

Hmm, so even the starter test may not completely rule out the starter? load as in what? like amps from the battery? or work
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Sorry to say, but it's hard to buy a good relay anymore, a lot of them are bad right out of the box. As far as starter load, the effort it has to use to turn the engine.
Edit: Just seen in your previous post that you hooked batt to starter and it turned. If it was turning the engine over, then we're back to the relay.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011 Thread Starter
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Yeah it didn't turn the engine over, you could just hear it spin inside.
Hmm :/ with all this, couldn't I just convert the ignition system to something better after we isolate the problem?
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If the starter spins and doesn't turn the engine, you have a starter problem. It's not engaging the flywheel/flexplate. The electronic ignition is the easy part, lets get this thing running. Sounds like the Bendix is bad in the starter.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-05-2011 Thread Starter
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Hmmm okay okay, so I suppose I could just take it back and try another new one?
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Starters for a manual tranny and automatic are different. Possibility of them giving you the wrong one, or it's bad. When 12v is applied, the actual solenoid on the starter pushes the gear back to engage the flywheel/flexplate. This can be seen by removing the inspection plate on an automatic, but safety is a concern and would be leary of trying this unless vehicle is off the ground on jackstands at least.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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