1966 Mustang's main power supply to fuse box - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011 Thread Starter
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1966 Mustang's main power supply to fuse box

I'm going to replace the old glass fuse box on my 1966 with the blade style fuses.
My wiring diagram shows the black-yellow wire as the main power supply for battery power is this correct? Is there a secondary connection for acc. power?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011
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Here is a diagram for the accesories. I don't know which diagram you are using. You will notice two wires tap into the main feed before the fuse block. Some will circle back thru the different fuses. I replaced my fuse block with a 10 circuit block and mini fuses seperating and fusing the circuits a little more.
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66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011 Thread Starter
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Thank you. The wiring diagram is unclear to me as the main power source(s) to the box. When you replaced your fuse box did you bring a single source from the battery in the box? Or did you split the fuse box into 2 sources; 1 battery power then other acc power?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011
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The blk/yellow is straight from batt.(37) My fuse block was individual circuits so I jumpered four for constant voltage. Then jumpered four more for keyed power. Can't remember which wire I used, but it was one that was hot only with switch and isolated the hot side of it by pulling the fuse connected to it. Did not need to run any new wires. I can look tomorrow and see what color it is, but I did choose the largest gauge wire. Hope you understand what I'm talking about, sometimes I have a hard time getting it into words.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011 Thread Starter
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I know what you mean. I know what I want to say but can't get it on paper clearly.
I have the wiring diagrams. There are difficult for me to read because there are on several pages seperated by circuits(?).
I'm not certain how the stock box was set up since it's not spelled out in the diagram's I have.
The new box I have has a single connection for incoming power which then feeds the 8 fuse's. I'm not certain how to seperate the different power sources; always hot & hot only with on/acc.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011
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Know what you mean. That type fuse box is the most common found. I picked one up on E-bay that all the fuses were seperately fed. Easy to jumper one side for how many you want for different feeds.

66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011
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Wanting to switch to the newer blade fuses is like opening a can of worms. Basically, on the old style glass fuse type, everything splices together at some point and converges into the fuse box run by the 4 glass fuses.

To get to the new blade fuse type, as annoying and tedious as it is, you'll need to break out the splices and run everything you want on individual circuits. Just follow along on the diagrams you have and watch what splits to where.

I rewired my entire car, but went a step further than just the fuse box. Here's what I did:

My car had absolutely no wiring in it. I had a parts car that I gutted the entire wiring system out of (old glass fuse style). I ran that in my car.

Then, I ordered an entire wiring kit that included the newer style blade fuses, only everything was already run onto individual circuits. I ran everything in the car side by side with the original wiring.

Here was the hard part (and what you're trying to do). I then got the book of electrical diagrams for the car so I could see what did what and what went where and ran where. ONE feature at a time (ie brake lights, reverse lights, etc), I slowly cut out the old wiring and either removed the factory connector if I could or spliced onto it and terminated the new wiring using original connectors.

Again, I did this ONE feature at a time and moved on to the next, until eventually each section of the old wiring was removed, and ultimately until I got to the last set of wires behind the gauge cluster where I finally snipped out the last wire which removed the glass fuse box and made the new system dependent on the new blade fuse box.

I kept this all straight by doing one thing at a time and writing on the diagrams next to the existing wiring "ok this is the original wire #whatever, and it now runs off of the new wire whatever".

If you start cutting multiple wires and trying to do the wiring in sections, you will confuse yourself looking at the old diagrams and trying to figure out "wait a minute, this controlled this this and that, now what controls all that?" That's because the original spliced down to 4 fuses, and now you're breaking that out into separate circuits.

In the end, I ended up with a new wiring system that works off the newer blade style fuses, and everything has it's own circuit. Everything is connected with original connectors and ends. It took me about 40 hours to do the conversions, but initial testing looks like everything works the way it should.

Just take your time and be patient when breaking the circuits out. I had the same initial confusion thinking that one main wire runs the fuse box. It doesn't. If you need to figure out where something gets power, start with the battery diagrams, and follow the wiring schematics to the particular thing that you're trying to get power to. You'll find that most things run into a spliced junction, and everything eventually leads into the fuse box.

The other way to look at it is follow the wires out of the fuse box on the schematics. You'll find out just how many things run off of one fuse and how it got routed there.

Sorry for the book, but hopefully that gave you a little insight into what you're trying to accomplish.

2003 V-6 - the usual bolt-ons. Traded for 2012 V-6
2012 V-6 - premium "Pony Package" edition. Leased, so no mods. Traded up for 2013 5.0
2013 5.0 - premium package, visual mods for now.
1965 coupe - Born - straight six standard issue
Now - 5.0 motor, T5 tranny, R&P, full length subframe connectors, Caltracs draglink bars, hedman headers, disc brakes, MSD 6, paxton supercharger, and probably a bunch of other stuff I forgot to mention. It's loud as hell, and my new toy
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-26-2011
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Hello. This might help make some sense out of the wiring digrams.
The Care and Feeding of Ponies: Mustang Fuse Box 1965 1966
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011 Thread Starter
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Thank you. It least now it makes more sense, sort of. I have a new box that has 3 constant & 4 acc. on.
I was going to run the dome (green-yellow); incoming (black-yellow) & cig. lighter (blue-white) as constant
The heater (brown); ign. incoming (brown-green) as acc only on; I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the cluster lights (blue-red).
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