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Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 03-05-2011   #1 (permalink)
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Question Stock 289 - What is the best heads and cam?

I'm looking to beef up my stock 289 with some heads and a cam. Budget is a concern... Currently I have standard 1968 heads, high rise intake and holly 600 4b carb. Bottom end is stock to my knowledge.

Just reading threads... I was thinking the gt40p heads would be a good upgrade but I see other heads cheaper but have no ideal if they would be good. What is the best head(s) for a budget minded top end upgrade from stock.

Also, I have no clue on cams. something mild but not to mild... I love a rough idle. Thanks for any assistance!!
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Unread 03-05-2011   #2 (permalink)
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gt40 heads are ok, you would bolt on about 25 extra hp with those. run a cam w/ 500 lift and 220 something duration with your hi rise. some longtubes and you will feel like your in a totally different car.

also make sure you match the springs in your heads, any brand you get, to work with your cam, ot it will perform like junk.
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Unread 03-05-2011   #3 (permalink)
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you can find it all on craigslist if you dont mind buying used.
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1968, 302 .030 / Comp Cams Magnum 270h #31-414-3 501 lift @ .050 dur 224/224
Comp Cams Magnum Lifters and Pushrods Comp Cams 1.6 Full Roller Rockers
Edelbrock RPM heads (2.02 / 1.60) / RPM Air Gap
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
Edelbrock 110gph Fuel Pump
Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Chain / Professional Products Harmonic Balancer
MSD Pro billet Dizzy, 6AL Box, Blaster 2 Coil
Flowtech Long Tube Headers
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Unread 03-05-2011   #4 (permalink)
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Find you a set of the 210cc Pro Comp heads, fully assembled on Ebay new for less than $700, cheapest Aluminum head around. If you love a rough idle and good streetability you might look into Comp's Thumpr Cam line.
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Unread 03-05-2011   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshMac View Post
Find you a set of the 210cc Pro Comp heads, fully assembled on Ebay new for less than $700, cheapest Aluminum head around. If you love a rough idle and good streetability you might look into Comp's Thumpr Cam line.

Hi! I assume that your 289 was 2 barrel before. Your current head have a 63 cc chamber and give you 8.7 to 1 comp ratio. 60 cc head would put you at about 9.1 to 1. Gt40p have 60cc chamber but the spark plug pointing almost at 90 degree out witch cause problem to fit headers. If you are going to spend money on a set of head go with some aluminum head 170cc to 190 cc intake runner.
For your cam, more info is needed. What Trans are you running? If auto what is your stall? What is your rear end ratio? With stock drive train I wouldn't go bigger than something like a comp cam 268h
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Unread 03-05-2011   #6 (permalink)
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Thank you for all the information. Yes, my engine had the typical 2b carb setup when I bought it all those years ago. Trans is a C4 that is shot... but plan on replacing with the same or having it rebuilt. I've never pulled the trans but assume it has a default t-converter and plan on getting a new one based on the final setup of the engine. Rear end is a 4.11 locker.

Probably should have mentioned this is a 1968 fast back that used to have a 390 in it. I'm not sure that makes a difference in fitting a header on the GT40P heads. Right now I have hooker long tubes but they are old and rusty (need to change).

I'm looking to spend around $400 on heads and $150 on cam. I also hope to re-use the welder (spelling??) high rise aluminum intake and 600 4b carb. I also plan on swithing up to a plug and play electronic ingnition.

I'm looking for my best head/cam setup in this price range (if one exists). Thanks again for all the help!!
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Unread 03-05-2011   #7 (permalink)
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As others have mentioned, forget the P's unless you run into a deal that offers you the headers to match! The GTs would work well for you, but I think your budget may be a little lean, cause your gonna need pushrods, gaskets, etc. Be patient, and keep your eyes open, for someone wanting to step up to some Aluminum heads, and you may get lucky and score a nice set of Irons.... World, RHS, etc.? Good Luck with your decision, and Good Hunting!


Here's some......http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/2249369854.html
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Unread 03-05-2011   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks CoupedUp!! Just so I understand, forget the GT40P's but some GT40's (without the P) would work great.

Also, any suggestions on a cam that would match that head well with a stock bottom end? Thanks again!!
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Unread 03-05-2011   #9 (permalink)
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Wow...... That's a tough one! It really depends on what you want. IMHO, There's nothing wrong with a "Stock" bottom end, as long as your not Pounding the R's, and the HP's around 275- 300, after that you'll probably want some better hardware, holding your rod caps on. Make sure that the Heads you get, haven;t been Decked, too much, as you'll already be gaining points in C/R... which is good, as long as you don't over do it, to your Used bottom end. The GT-40s are gonna breath better, than what you already have, and you can always do a little exhaust port polishing, yourself, to get a little more. Intake port matching, will also get ya a little more.....Cams? There's alot of them out there, and as mentioned above, make sure your springs, follow the specs of your chosen Cam grind! You'll probably want a single pattern cam, that's power curve is focused between 1200 - 5500 rpm, or so. Stick around .500 lift, and you'll be fine... Oh and make sure that your timing chain and gear (double roller) is in good shape! While your at it, Throw in a hardened oil pump shaft, ($20) if you haven't already! Have Fun!

Here's something that might help...http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ad_porting.pdf

just my .02 sense.
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Unread 03-05-2011   #10 (permalink)
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A good fool proof cam for a 289 is the edelbrock performer 289. It's designed for that engine and is priced right in your budget

you won't realize any respectable gains with polishing unless you're operating in the higher rpm range when there's high air volume moving through the ports.
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Unread 03-06-2011   #11 (permalink)
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Some GT40 iron heads and a Ford Racing B Cam and 1.7 RR's and you'll have the idle and HP you want. This is all subject to how many miles you have on the 289? It's a strong motor so you have a good base line to work with.
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Unread 03-06-2011   #12 (permalink)
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My suggestion of the day, who's ever cam you decide to purchase, make it a hydraulic roller.
It just happens, I have a good entry level setup CompCam and conversion kit (cheap).
PM, if interested.
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Unread 03-06-2011   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
My suggestion of the day, who's ever cam you decide to purchase, make it a hydraulic roller.
It just happens, I have a good entry level setup CompCam and conversion kit (cheap).
PM, if interested.
you mean retrofit the block, that gets expensive. I dont think he wants to spend that much. 289 is a hydraulic flat tappet that is the least expensive cam/lifter route.
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1968, 302 .030 / Comp Cams Magnum 270h #31-414-3 501 lift @ .050 dur 224/224
Comp Cams Magnum Lifters and Pushrods Comp Cams 1.6 Full Roller Rockers
Edelbrock RPM heads (2.02 / 1.60) / RPM Air Gap
Holley Street Avenger 670 carb
Edelbrock 110gph Fuel Pump
Cloyes Street True Roller Timing Chain / Professional Products Harmonic Balancer
MSD Pro billet Dizzy, 6AL Box, Blaster 2 Coil
Flowtech Long Tube Headers
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Unread 03-06-2011   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pig Muffin View Post
you mean retrofit the block, that gets expensive. I dont think he wants to spend that much. 289 is a hydraulic flat tappet that is the least expensive cam/lifter route.

Yes, it it gets expensive if you go the "link bar" route, but, not if installing a spyder assembly. I used this setup for a couple of seasons, then, cobbled the money for the big time link bars.
It's a great way to enter the full roller realm, inexpensively.
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Unread 03-06-2011   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rorr4 View Post
Thank you for all the information. Yes, my engine had the typical 2b carb setup when I bought it all those years ago. Trans is a C4 that is shot... but plan on replacing with the same or having it rebuilt. I've never pulled the trans but assume it has a default t-converter and plan on getting a new one based on the final setup of the engine. Rear end is a 4.11 locker.

Probably should have mentioned this is a 1968 fast back that used to have a 390 in it. I'm not sure that makes a difference in fitting a header on the GT40P heads. Right now I have hooker long tubes but they are old and rusty (need to change).

I'm looking to spend around $400 on heads and $150 on cam. I also hope to re-use the welder (spelling??) high rise aluminum intake and 600 4b carb. I also plan on swithing up to a plug and play electronic ingnition.

I'm looking for my best head/cam setup in this price range (if one exists). Thanks again for all the help!!
GT40 head have about the same size chamber as your 289 head, they will flow more but your comp ratio will still be a 8.7 to 1.

What about putting 4-500$ in your current head, bigger valves, new seats, screw in studs, milling and home porting. They would give you more power than gt40 head with all that work done to them. I did home porting on my friend DOOE 351w head with a carbide burr and EASTWOOD porting kit. Took me about 3 hrs. Here a couple pics of the exhaust port donít have pic of the intake port.
Attached Thumbnails
Stock 289 - What is the best heads and cam?-005.jpg  Stock 289 - What is the best heads and cam?-001.jpg  
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