Rain Gutters - Ford Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2004 Thread Starter
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Rain Gutters

Hello all,
New member here. Got my 65' Coupe last year and have been making upgrades and minor repairs since and loving every minute of it. I am about to start sanding/painting the body, however my hang up is at the drip rails. They are rusting a bit not sure how deep yet either. I have talked with several people and they recommend fillers ie. bondo, one even mentioned a silicone compound. Can any of you recommend a good repair or tell me what you did? Thanks again.

Navy Mustang
The only time you have too much fuel, is when your on fire!!!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2004
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i know one guy who shaved them off, and i think that's what i'll be planning on

try finding a classic bodyshop, they should know how to repair it
also try finding a forum that is specifically for classic 'stangs, these guys are mostly 5.0/4.6 guys, you'll get better results where the guys know what you are working with

Chevy, Like a Rock!!!
that means it don't move

i wish i knew now what i will know in thirty years, that'd be nice...

Susie will always be my main love! ('67 coupe, soon to be nightmist blue w/'68 GT stripes)
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-24-2004
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I'm not sure what shape they're in, but you could just wire brush it and weld up the drop rail in spots and then grind it to make it look right. Or you could, and this was done long ago before bondo, just as good but a little more expensive and very few people can do it these days, is they melt like iron or some metal(don't remember) as a body filler. Have a body shop do that for you. If you called a good reputable shop, they'd know what I'm talking about. It was done all the time back in the day but since the invention of bondo, it's cheaper and easier, but the method of melting metal on is still a cool technique.
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004
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The metal your refering to is lead, not many people left who can do it anymore.

Check with a auto paint store neat you there are some good body fillers out there now, they cost bit more but last forever
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004
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If you are going to use fillers rom autoparts stores then go with a fiberglass filler rather than bondo.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004
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Fiberglass will break up before bondo will though. I would use bondo over Fiberglass. And yes, lead is it, I just couldn't think of it. And yes, there's few left who can do it, but it's a handy technique.
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004 Thread Starter
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I have heard of using lead as a filler, but like you said tough to find someone to do it. I've stopped by several body shops who said they will weld it, but my gut tells me to keep looking for different shops. I have also heard of a liquid metal(similiar to bondo), someone said to use, I have seen it used on water pipes and stuff, just never cars...anyone out there use it? Don't think I will go with cutting them off, no offense ASA67_stang, I would be worried about rain getting in my doors and I like the way the chrome trim contrasts the door frame area. Thanks again for all the reply's anymore suggestions keep them coming.

Navy Mustang

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004
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just thought i'd toss out a possibility
when the car is moving, it doesn't really help with preventing rain getting in anyways, but at a stop it can help a little

Chevy, Like a Rock!!!
that means it don't move

i wish i knew now what i will know in thirty years, that'd be nice...

Susie will always be my main love! ('67 coupe, soon to be nightmist blue w/'68 GT stripes)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2004
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I think the best repair would cut out the rust affected section and weld in a new bit.
Lead filling would be a little tricky but possible (I'm not sure I could carry it off)
Polyester filler would be my 3rd choice but by far the quickest and easiest

Wimblton white 66 coupe C code 289 auto
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04 Holden VY SS 5.7 auto (wifes)
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I would not use: anything silicon- The reason for this is believe it or not it IS NOT WATERPROOF.My Ranchero windshield was put in by someone who used silicon it not only rusted the guy who correctly installed my new windshield said it was lucky it didn't come out.
If what you have is rusted through the best way is to weld in a piece from another drip rail. You then grind your welds flush and go over the welds with a fiberglass putty. the fiberglass putty IS waterproof . The bondo like regular primers ARE NOT WATERPROOF.Epoxy primers are waterproof. Most important read about what your doing before you even start. Long time bodyman

Old and in the way.
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USG made a polyester body filler with metal, I think aluminum, in it. It was waterproof but I remember it being difficult to sand. I think I used a grinder. It may not be around anymore I used at a body shop I worked at back around 85.
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