Will this rear end work in my 1968 mustang? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011 Thread Starter
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Will this rear end work in my 1968 mustang?

I found this on craigslist and wanted to know if it would work in my mustang with no mods except for welding on spring perches. Any input is greatly appreicated. The text below is from the ad.

3.27 gears, good limited slip unit, out of an 88 Lincoln LSC

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011
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I know the rears in those cars are 8.8 inch rears (not 8 or 9 inchers), and i think they might be a few inches wider then the stock rears from 68. You could always just have the axle housings cut and welded while your doing the spring perches. The only thing i would be concerned with would be the driveshaft matching up.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-09-2011
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I'm not familiar with the 88 model 8.8, but things to check are...

1.) Parking Brake Cable compatibility.
2.) Driveshaft/U-Joint compatibility.
3.) Axel Tube Diameter, the 8.8 might be larger - this requires larger shock mount brackets (not cheap).
4.) Spring Perch Loations (as you said).
5.) Overall width (as mentioned).
6.) Brake line mods/relocation.
7.) 8.8's have an offset pumpkin to the passenger side and it may hit the tunnel if you are lowered or have sagging rear springs.
8.) Driveshaft length may need to altered.

Ride On,
Noel

"I'll fix it or break it, Guaranteed!"
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011 Thread Starter
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Im thinking that i should just buy new gears and install them in my 8 inch for the money and for a lot less hassle...thanks for the guidance

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011
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I would never take out a 8 inch for a 8.8,The 8 inch will take more a beating plus you already got it.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011
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As far as durability goes, I remember my brother breaking a 8 inch with a warmed up J-code back in 1970. My nephew put about 700 horse to a 8.8 and it survived. The attatching points on the body were not that lucky.

Old and in the way.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011 Thread Starter
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How involved is the process in switching gear ratios in the rear end?

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewmp6 View Post
I would never take out a 8 inch for a 8.8,The 8 inch will take more a beating plus you already got it.
HAHA...and what experience to you pull this from?

the 8" is a glass house waiting to explode.

I've had friends with the stock 28 spline axles 8.8 with 4.10's and 350 to the wheels launch on drag slicks for close to 4 years before He broke the rear.

I've got the 31 spline trak lok 8.8 373 gears from a 96 explorer that I just finished putting into my 66. I've seen comparison charts, and the 31 spline 8.8 rear is literally rated on par (very slightly under) in strength with a built 9" rear. How much are you going to pay for a 9" rear?

As well, I was just going to modify my 8" with a limited slip carrier and 373 gears until i went price searching.....lol!!!!

I got my 8.8 for $150 from the junkyard WITH rear disc brakes WITH 373 gears, WITH 31 spline axles and WITH limited slip/trak lok...I bought summit racing spring perches for $10 or so and had a friend weld them up for free....I've picked up an explorer aluminum driveshaft from a junkyard for $25 which is a direct drop in....OR in the past I've had my stock shaft rebalanced cut and welded, stuffed with new joints for $78. I'm using the explorer shock plates presently...but not happy with the fit...so I plan on using the stock 8" plates...and I'll redrill to accept the wider u bolts.

Jeremy

-86 ssp X chp 5.0 coupe
-66 coupe,Ford racing crate 5.0 roller engine, t5 trans, 8.8 explorer 373 rear,2005 mustang front disc conversion, lots more
-1972 Maverick undergoing full resto
-1998 Lincoln Mark Viii LSC Black/Black
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-11-2011
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I use to drag race a ranger with a explorer 8.8 in it i blew it apart with a mild 351 and slicks.After i rebuild the diff in it one of the axle tubes cracked away from the center.I do a lot of off roading the only ones that use a 8.8 are some jeeps.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-12-2011 Thread Starter
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Now i dont know what to do again ha

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
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you don't have enough mods to really take advantage of a limited slip rear, nor do you have an overdrive trans to take advantage of the gear that you should really be running. IMO a stock rear is perfect in your setup. I'd spend the cash instead on some good heads and an o/d trans...then come back and re-examin the rear end question.

Jeremy

-86 ssp X chp 5.0 coupe
-66 coupe,Ford racing crate 5.0 roller engine, t5 trans, 8.8 explorer 373 rear,2005 mustang front disc conversion, lots more
-1972 Maverick undergoing full resto
-1998 Lincoln Mark Viii LSC Black/Black
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The stock rear ends was geared to make up for not having a over drive.So you could gear it higher but it will hurt you're top end speed and mpg but if you get a over drive a 3.55 or higher will be prefect.If it was me i would lower the car or maybe spend the money for window tint there's a lot of ways to spend on these cars.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-13-2011 Thread Starter
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Ok i think ill focus on the tranny or something else first then come back to the rearend

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
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you could always buy some new gears, say 3.25s, and have a shop put them in. i agree that you don't really have the power to take advantage of a limited slip diff, so an open should be fine. even with a stock setup, bigger gears in the rear will give you much better acceleration/torque. however, with only a 3-speed auto, your rpms will be higher with higher gears. if you using a c4 trans, stay below 3.55s or you'll be around 4500rpms just doing 70mph

you can use this site to play with axle ratios/tire size to check rpms at various speeds:

Randy's Ring & Pinion. RPM Calculator.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-14-2011 Thread Starter
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ok thanks what brands should i look at when looking for gears? Or what else should i look at spending money on?

-Jared 1968 Coupe 289 4V (Daily Driver).
What i've done...
-New steering box and front end rebuild
-New interior
-Disc brakes and brake system rebuild
-Edelbrock 4V
-New Exhaust (neighbors love me in the a.m)
-And to many other things to mention
All by the age of 18
Warrior 2011 is offline  
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