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Unread 11-30-2011   #1 (permalink)
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Exclamation I have a question on a flex plate?

Hello to all. I have a 86 5.0 that im instaling in a 67 mustang with a c4 trans. I have the flex plate for the 5.0 which is a 164 tooth 50oz. I also have the tork converter which has a 10.5" bolt patern. I have been traying to find a flex plate that will work with the aplication but with no luck. Any one that might have an input with my problem id apriciate some help. Its the key pece to the instalation of my power plant. Hoping to get the Pony runing before the end of the year.
I will atach some pictures of the parts I have.
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I have a question on a flex plate?-imag0575.jpg  I have a question on a flex plate?-imag0576.jpg  I have a question on a flex plate?-imag0577.jpg  I have a question on a flex plate?-imag0578.jpg  I have a question on a flex plate?-imag0580.jpg  

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Unread 11-30-2011   #2 (permalink)
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Maybe this ill fit.....

Performance Automatic PA26461 Performance Automatic SFI Flexplates
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Unread 11-30-2011   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the post couped up. Im not sure if it matters but the flex plate i have is a 164 tooth so im not sure if the 157 tooth one will work.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #4 (permalink)
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Wait for someone to confirm or deny this as I'm going off a feeble memory. I think you will need the 157t flexplate with the 67 C4 Mustang bell housing. I ran into this when I did a V8 Ranger swap a few years ago. I recollect the Mustang bell housing was smaller.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #5 (permalink)
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i think you are right richard. the 157t/50oz.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #6 (permalink)
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The flexplate that you show in the photo is for use with the AOD or automatic overdrive transmission. The C4's flexplate is smaller in diameter. The flexplate that you need is an aftermarket piece only and was never used on a production Ford vehicle. You'll never find one in the scrap yard, so don't waste your time.

What you need for your C4 is a 10 1/2" (Torque Converter Bolt Pattern), 157 Tooth flexplate with a 50 ounce counterweight. Your torque converter bolt pattern will be correct for the new 50 Oz. flexplate.

There are several sources for them. Our forum has sponsors that can get one for you and probably with a member's discount. Summit Racing and Jegs are two mail order sources. Also any dealer of Ford Racing Performance parts as well as most vendors of Ford performance automatic transmissions will carry them, too.

Don't make the mistake of using a 10 1/2" 157 Tooth flexplate with a 28 ounce counterweight from the parts store. This will bolt right up, but because of having the wrong weight, will cause vibration and engine damage.

To mount the flexplate, I recommend using new mounting bolts, (Specifically for a flexplate. These bolts are shorter than those for a manual trans. flywheel.), bolts of good quality such as bolts from ARP. Use a good thread sealant that has a high resistance to oil and temperature. Always use the circular backing plate that goes between the flexplate and the mounting bolts. This plate helps to spread out the bolt clamping force and prevents flexplate cracking due to vibration or harmonics. If you don't have one, get one. It's important. Ask for one when getting the flexplate or get one from the Ford dealer or NAPA. They don't cost much.

F.Y.I. about your engine. If it still has the original pistons. The 1986 5.0 HO pistons were forged from the factory, but there are no valve reliefs cut in them. This was on the 1986 engine only. If you are changing the cylinder heads, don't forget to check the valve to piston clearance. The 86 only cyl. heads had a unique combustion chamber design which, it's said, isn't very good for performance because of the excessive valve shrouding. It seems that Ford picked 1986 as a design/testing year. This head was dropped from use in 87 on Mustang's 5.0 HO, as Ford went back to a more traditional combustion chamber as could be found on the 85 and then 87 and up 5.0 HO.

I've personally done a 5.0 swap on a 67. Here's something else that may be of interest. The portions of the motor mounts that bolt each side of the engine to the chassis (Pedestals) may need to be swapped out with a set from a late year 66 or 68. The 1967 motor mounts and pedestals are a 67 only design. You may find that your new mounts are listed as being for a 67 plus several other years. That's wrong. The dimensions and angles of the mount make for about 1/4" of difference in the position of the hole for inserting the long through bolt into one or both sides of the engine. The solution is as said above. Change the pedestals and use the actual mount that is supposed to fit. Like that cheap set for a 68. To acquire an actual set of 67 mounts, as best I know, they'll have to be NOS and that means expensive.

If you fight the installation on your 67 and finally get the last through bolt installed by stretching the mount on one side as I did. You will experience a complete failure and separation of the rubber portion of the mount. The mount that failed for me was the driver's side. The engine lifted and the fan caused considerable damage.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #7 (permalink)
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Greek--I have a question on 1 point of clarification. On a say, 85 or 86 block, if you're using the 28 oz balancer then it is okay to use the original 28 oz flexplate, correct?

Regarding the motor mounts--I kept the mounts from the 289 that was mounted in my 67 (it was originally a 6 cyl car back in the day) and transferred them to my 302. It is kind of a paint to get it bolted in, but I only chalked that up to nothing being easy in this kind of work. Is this what you were talking about in regards to using the original mounts? I don't want to get any surprises like what you had.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you for the info Greek well put. I have gotten a pair of 68 mottor mouts from a wreked 68 in the salvage yard a few months back. now is their a way to take the balansing of a 28oz 157 tooth flex and put a 50oz on it and have it be right? The link that Couped up posted looks like the right part but for that price I can pick up an AOD from the salvage yard and get the over drive gear and better gas milege.( )
To Lizer I bolive if the internals of the engine are from a 85 or 86 you need to use the 50oz balansing as I think in 81 the balansing changed not an expert but thats how I understod it. I have reed a lot about the subject but every trans place I have gone to has no idea of what im talking about. Thanks to all that have posted on this topic
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Unread 11-30-2011   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Greek--I have a question on 1 point of clarification. On a say, 85 or 86 block, if you're using the 28 oz balancer then it is okay to use the original 28 oz flexplate, correct?
Both the balancer and flexplate have to match the balance of the motor. When Ford went to the 50 oz balance, that was because they changed the balance of the crankshaft, removed weigh and corrected by the balancer and flexplate/flywheel. All three have to match to prevent problems.
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Unread 11-30-2011   #10 (permalink)
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Here's a few more..... that should fit the bill.......

TCI Auto 529610 - TCI Flexplates - Application - SummitRacing.com

http://www.jegs.com/i/Hays/490/12-040/10002/-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Speedway...item1e6827a66b

B&M 50239 - B&M Flexplates - Overview - SummitRacing.com


Good luck with your choices, and Happy Holidays....
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Unread 11-30-2011   #11 (permalink)
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Thank you for all the help any one eals that whant to give their input ill apriciate it.:kooky:
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Unread 11-30-2011   #12 (permalink)
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Duing some more reserch on the parts an prices i came acrros this on a difren site. I also atached some pictures of the 164 tooth flexplate inside the bell housing. Will this work?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Pioneer-Flywheel-Automatic-Transmission/1980-Ford-Mustang/_/N-im32nZ6o22f?counter=0&itemIdentifier=55178_0_0_
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Unread 11-30-2011   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
Both the balancer and flexplate have to match the balance of the motor. When Ford went to the 50 oz balance, that was because they changed the balance of the crankshaft, removed weigh and corrected by the balancer and flexplate/flywheel. All three have to match to prevent problems.
Dave
I figured as much. In my case, my engine was balanced by the builder who put together the long block. In order for them to balance it, they had me send them my 28 oz balancer and flexplate that came off my 289. I'm therefore under the impression the internals were balanced to the 28 oz balancer though I don't know how this is done. They said it wouldn't be a problem as long as I balanced everything to the balancer and flexplate I'd be using, so that's what I've always stuck with.
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Unread 12-02-2011   #14 (permalink)
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any one with an imput on the pictures i posted. wondering if the 164 tooth flex plate will work with the ball housing i have
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Unread 12-03-2011   #15 (permalink)
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you need a different flex plate to work with your torque converter right? so what you need is to get one of the many conversion flexplates that have already been listed. that way everything will work together. it will have the correct balance, the correct torque converter bolt pattern and will mesh correctly with your starter drive. I am unclear why you are asking if the flex plate you have will work with your bell housing when it will not work with your torque converter. are you planning on getting a different torque converter instead? if you are I would not recommend that. I don't think they make a c-4 torque converter with the bolt pattern to bolt up to your flex plate and even if they did I think you would run into starter issues. I have not done that particular swap but I have always read that you need the 157 tooth flywheel I am assuming it is do to having the proper starter tooth mesh pattern. if you look at the picture you posted of your flexplate inside the bellhousing, and look at the starter bolt holes. the flexplate comes almost all the way to the line connecting the two bolts. it does not look like there is enough room for the starter drive to fit.
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