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Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 07-29-2002   #1 (permalink)
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Default Need help on 1972 mach 1 351 cj engine

I need help on a decision, see how the engine looks, it has been sitting out for 10 years last owner did not have time to fix it, untill I found it and plan to get it up and running all the parts are there like the intake manifold and carborator.
I have a few question and hope that some of you could help me.
1. Can the engine be used again without pulling it out?
2. Can the rust be taken off easy and engine could be used again?
3. Is it worth useing again or go for a new one?
4. Or take it to a mechanic?
As you can see i have many questions because i dont have much money but plan to fix it myselft.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #2 (permalink)
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heres a other picture. I really need to know if a backyard mechanic can fix this
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Unread 07-29-2002   #3 (permalink)
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Default Re: Need help on 1972 mach 1 351 cj engine

Quote:
Originally posted by antball
I need help on a decision, see how the engine looks, it has been sitting out for 10 years last owner did not have time to fix it
take the engine apart. I doubt that he properly oiled it down and he did not seal it.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #4 (permalink)
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do you think that all the rust would be eaisly taken off with wd 40 or some rust inhibitor or sand paper? and do you think that it can still be used? hopefully i can get this baby to run thanks
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Unread 07-29-2002   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by antball
do you think that all the rust would be eaisly taken off with wd 40 or some rust inhibitor or sand paper? and do you think that it can still be used? hopefully i can get this baby to run thanks
no and yes.
disasemble the engine and have it hot-tanked! I would also magna-flux it. Cleavelands have a poor oiling system, and that is why they were replaced with the 400M in 1974. If the car has not run in 10 years, I would say that the piston sleaves need to be bored out and that all of the seals are shot.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #6 (permalink)
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what is the highest octane gas in your area? when you rebuild it, you WILL need hardened valve seats. dont worry about porting, with today's gas, you will not max out those 4V heads, however you will need to use the stock carb, or find a spread bore Holley.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #7 (permalink)
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in my area its about 91 octane. Do you think that this would be a imposible job I know theres no way i can hot tank it myself, or should I take it to a mechanic to get it all done oh and if I do how much do you think it would cost? right now i probably have money for just gaskets and a good change of oil no money for a engine lift or stand yet but i got all the tools. Thanks, sorry for to many questions

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Unread 07-29-2002   #8 (permalink)
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to do a real cheap re-build, your looking at about a grand, for a good one, $2k
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Unread 07-29-2002   #9 (permalink)
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oh yeah, I forgot, with a 4V Cleavo, you most likly need to add an octane booster, California gas sucks
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Unread 07-29-2002   #10 (permalink)
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lets just say i get some of the rust off with some kind of rust cleaner and then add back all the parts with new gaskets, and reconnect all the holes and stuff, do you think that this will run, I mean right now im look to just get it to run.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by antball
lets just say i get some of the rust off with some kind of rust cleaner and then add back all the parts with new gaskets, and reconnect all the holes and stuff, do you think that this will run, I mean right now im look to just get it to run.
wrong attitude, why kill a good engine? but if you really want to get it to run, remove the plugs and the valve covers, poor oil all over the valves, and squirt allot into the plug holes, put new oil in the pan, and sipin the oil pump drive shaft (be sure to mark the location of the distributor), put the distributor back in, crank the engine over by hand until the oil stops coming out of the plug holes. put the plugs back in, use a garden hose to flush the engine, hook it all back up and fire the engine. it will run like crap, poor some ATF (little at a time, and it smokes like ****) into the carb until it smooths out
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Unread 07-29-2002   #12 (permalink)
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I know I would like to get it original condition, but by the looks of the engine it the body is the same way so I would like to do things cheap (I know what your thinking, insert words "this ____ gonna _____ up a piece of ______ while i could have done____ better myself, and how can i let this____ do that"). After i can get to run ok i will start to get rid of rust which is on the roof and the whole hood is one piece of rust, so as the interior. or until I get more money to spend ex:selling my brand new car (which i shouldnt got before this i got the mach 1) or selling all my possessions such as my computer, tv, setreo,dvd player,and dog.

Last edited by antball; 07-29-2002 at 03:36 PM.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #13 (permalink)
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I finally loaded that pic, I doubt the engine is any good, and WILL need to be hot-tanked and machined. it will need all new valve train.
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Unread 07-29-2002   #14 (permalink)
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not trying to be a jerk, but that car in perfect condition will bring $6500 tops, and a replacement hood is about $500, $2000-3000 for paint alone, $2000 for the engine, $500 for the tranny (FMX'es last 100,000 miles), $1500 for the interrior......ever thought of parting it out, a perfect used grille is worth $300-400....
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Unread 07-29-2002   #15 (permalink)
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aw man so there no much hope of me alone getting the engine to start, i guess i would have get it towed and rebuilt at a shop. thanks, you been very helpful.

wait are you sugesting me selling it, or selling it as parts or are you giving me a estimate of how much im willing to spend after selling everything.

Its starting to be a chat room in here

Last edited by antball; 07-29-2002 at 04:22 PM.
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