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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 02-14-2012   #1 (permalink)
Gumbey75 is offline Rookie


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Default 1966 Mustang engine sputter

Just recently replaced my 200 motor because the bottom end blew. It has been running good for the past two weeks till today drive back from getting gas.(the fuel pump was replaced this morning cause it was leaking if that matters)

While driving out of nowhere it sputtered and die continuously. Pulled over and put the car in park and restarted it and it idled fine. Put it in drive and get back on the road and 10-15 seconds later it does it again... Then stops and was fine till i got to work(which was about a mile)This is the first time this has happened and I am stumped.

Parked it at work and checked the carburetor, its getting gas once with butterfly open. Choke open as hot. Getting spark from all cylinders(Took out each spark plug to make sure it would stumble)

I do have glass inline filter going to the filter of the carburetor and did see there was a small amount of brown mud like built up on the bottom so I took it out and cleaned it off with compressed air.

The only thing I can think of is the brown stuff got inside the carb and stalled it out or maybe "Bad" gas????

There are no vacuum leaks all new hoses,points, condenser, cap, rotor, plugs, spark plugs.
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Unread 02-14-2012   #2 (permalink)
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Default

On my old cars I'd rebuild the carbs every third oil change. The kits are cheap and proper adjustment is as essential part of a tune-up, in my opinion. Its also economical because a clean carb will net you better fuel economy.

When you mentioned the fuel pump going I immediately thought gunk from that clogged your fuel filter or got through it and into the carb. Re-build the carb and get a new filter.
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Unread 02-14-2012   #3 (permalink)
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That is probably from rust in the tank, it is not uncommon to introduce particles into the fuel system when changing a fuel component (fuel pump in this case), if you have very much rust in the tank the sock may be plugged. And that stuff may have gotten into the carb, also. Some fuel filters have a spring inside to push the filter away from its seat if it becomes plugged, I'm not sure if the clear ones are that way. I would do a fuel pump capacity test, disconnect the fuel line from the carb, put a piece of flexible fuel line on the end of the line and put the other end into a quart metal can, ground the coil hv wire to the block so you don't get a spark, and the motor won't start, then crank the engine for 20 seconds, you should have at least a pint of gas in the can, also look at the color of it, rusty, water, etc. Good Luck.
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Unread 02-15-2012   #4 (permalink)
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Cleaned out the filter and swapped the coil since that was the only thing I didn't replace when replacing motor. And has been running like normal again. Well see!
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