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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 02-16-2012   #1 (permalink)
66ponySJ is offline Rookie


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Default 1966 mustang starter problems

Hello everyone, I have a problem with the starter sometimes. The starter cranks over then makes a click noise after it stop cranking it then turns on out of nowhere, Last time my car had this problem was because the power cable to starter was lil loose. I turned on the car couple days ago without a problem, Ive been having this crazy problems since i relocated the battery to the trunk. I checked all the grounds and power cables, Battery good,new solenoid and new starter.
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Unread 02-16-2012   #2 (permalink)
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If you're positive that all of the wiring and components that you mentioned are OK, then about all that's left is the ignition switch. The switch portion, not the lock portion.
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Unread 02-16-2012   #3 (permalink)
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I think you have a bad connection, even though you've checked the grounds and battery connections, the heavy power cables should be ran directly to the engine ground included, with the starter solonoid in series with the positive power lead. Another possibility is the starter is not engaging the flywheel, either due to worn teeth or the starter drive gear, there is a set of switch contacts inside the hump on the starter that starts it spinning when it is engaged, and the starter solonoid could also have a problem. Since it is intermittent, it is hard to find, it would be ideal if you had a second person to try to start the car when the problem is occurring and you could use a volt meter to find where the voltage is either missing (electrical problem) or it the voltage is getting to the starter, then it's a mechanical problem I described above. Also if the wire gauges are too small in the batter relocate, it will have too much voltage drop, and be more susceptible to this problem. Post your results. Good Luck.
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Unread 02-16-2012   #4 (permalink)
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The power cable I'm using from trunk to solenoid is a 4 gauge from car audio.
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Unread 02-16-2012   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rex1965 View Post
I think you have a bad connection, even though you've checked the grounds and battery connections, the heavy power cables should be ran directly to the engine ground included, with the starter solonoid in series with the positive power lead. Another possibility is the starter is not engaging the flywheel, either due to worn teeth or the starter drive gear, there is a set of switch contacts inside the hump on the starter that starts it spinning when it is engaged, and the starter solonoid could also have a problem. Since it is intermittent, it is hard to find, it would be ideal if you had a second person to try to start the car when the problem is occurring and you could use a volt meter to find where the voltage is either missing (electrical problem) or it the voltage is getting to the starter, then it's a mechanical problem I described above. Also if the wire gauges are too small in the batter relocate, it will have too much voltage drop, and be more susceptible to this problem. Post your results. Good Luck.
If you didn't run a new ground wire back to engine this can be an issue. The body sheet metal is not a good conductor with all the spot welds etc.
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Unread 02-16-2012   #6 (permalink)
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It's not so much the body is not a good ground, it is the simple fact that the ground wire from the firewall to the engine block is not large enough gauge, plus you would have connections to the body to corrode, so the simple solution is to run a ground wire from the battery to the block. Starters can draw near 200-400 amps so don't go too small in doing this wiring, also the wire needs to be flexible near the engine side, due to the engine moving. Good Luck.
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Unread 02-17-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Wow! All great advice! Wire size, a good ground to the block, no loose connection and you should be on your way to happy driving. Good luck!
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