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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 05-01-2012   #1 (permalink)
Invaliduser is offline Rookie


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Default 1965 Coupe Leaf Springs

So I've searched and read about a few ways to remove the front bolt.

Mine is stuck and I can't seem to get it out. I want to get a 7inch angle grinder and lop the bolt off from both sides of the bushing.
Any thickness of a cut off wheel recommended?

My friend also pointed out if I do that, what about the rest of the bolt on the head side. is that in another sleeve or is that section of the frame just hollow?
Does that end of the bolt get stuck? How would you get it out?
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Unread 05-01-2012   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invaliduser View Post
So I've searched and read about a few ways to remove the front bolt.

Mine is stuck and I can't seem to get it out. I want to get a 7inch angle grinder and lop the bolt off from both sides of the bushing.
Any thickness of a cut off wheel recommended?

My friend also pointed out if I do that, what about the rest of the bolt on the head side. is that in another sleeve or is that section of the frame just hollow?
Does that end of the bolt get stuck? How would you get it out?
Hi,
I suppose you've squirted it with a penetrating fluid by now, let it soak, then try. little by little, to turn it in-place.
You might try torching both the head and nut side, then, let it cool and try to remove. However, be aware you may catch the bushing on fire. So, heat to the point, just before ignition. The idea of heating and cooling is to expand and contract the bolt so as to loosen it's rusty grip. Some guys have sprayed liquid nitrogen in an effort to shrink the bolt ever so slightly. I have always used heat.
I will, when the time comes to replace that bolt, smear a little anti-seize on it. Anti-seize should be in everyone's war chest.
Good Luck!
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Unread 05-01-2012   #3 (permalink)
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I've never used a torch on bolts before, a propane torch or map gas?

Would it damage the frame piece that the bolt goes through?
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Unread 05-01-2012   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invaliduser View Post
I've never used a torch on bolts before, a propane torch or map gas?

Would it damage the frame piece that the bolt goes through?
HI,
Heating nuts and bolts in a safe manner is one of the most effective ways of breaking the rust bond that exists in exposed tight locations. Using a penetrating oil can be used but needs to seep into the area where the bond exists and takes longer. If limited to a small propane tank, buy a small flame tip. I think, I got mine at Lowes. It will create a smaller flame and is better for concentrating the heat in a more specific area. If the nut is still on the bolt, work on this first.
The thought in torching a stuck nut is to heat it to a point, wherein, it will expand ever so slightly. This breaks the bond and the nut will easily un-thread.
Again, be aware that bolt passes through the frame and through the steel bushing of the leaf, the steel bushing is surrounded in rubber, if it gets too hot will begin to smolder, so, back off. Do all of this is a well ventilated area and have water near by on the chance there's undercoating or other flammables around the area. Work Safely!
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Unread 05-01-2012   #5 (permalink)
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The nut came off easy after a spray of PB blaster.
Should I still heat that end?

Car will be outside in my driveway next to the garden hose.
The head of the bolt might be difficult because rust has taken away most of the head so a very thin head, about 1/4 or so is left.
But it's not a twist off bolt since there's no thread there right? It just pops out if I can pull or push it out
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Unread 05-01-2012   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Invaliduser View Post
The nut came off easy after a spray of PB blaster.
Should I still heat that end?

Car will be outside in my driveway next to the garden hose.
The head of the bolt might be difficult because rust has taken away most of the head so a very thin head, about 1/4 or so is left.
But it's not a twist off bolt since there's no thread there right? It just pops out if I can pull or push it out
Hi,
OK. The bolt itself is probably rusted to the inner shell of the bushing. I'm thinking you are going to need a saws-all with a metal cutting blade to cut through the bolt on both ends between the bushing and the frame flange.
You might get lucky with heating the threaded end while turning the head may loosen it. But, In the end cutting may be your only answer.
Good Luck!
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Unread 05-01-2012   #7 (permalink)
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Done a few now and tried all the different tricks, cut off wheel, sawzall, heat, etc. Go with your orginla plan 7" cut off wheel on angle grinder. Quickest way to do it.
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Unread 05-01-2012   #8 (permalink)
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I try an air hammer on the tip of the bolt. 90% of the time that's enough. The other times, I cut the leaf spring of flush with the eye, spin the eye 180 and cut through the wrapped part of the leaf with a small cutoff wheel. The the wrapped spring eye removes from the bushing like halves of a clam, and just cut straight into the center of the bushing and bolt. It always falls apart after that.
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Unread 05-04-2012   #9 (permalink)
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I ran into this changing our rear springs. We used an air hammer grinders saw zaw and had to cut with the grinder the eye off the leaf. The car sat for 20 years and the rubber wouldn't let go! Be patient and have all the tools available.


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