Go Back   Ford Mustang Forums > Mustang > Classic Mustang > Classic Tech

Welcome to our Mustang forums where Mustangers come together to hang out, discuss and enjoy their favorite Mustang hobby with fellow Mustang enthusiasts. We invite everyone to read, post, and enjoy our Mustang forum as well as the many other sections of our site.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest. By joining our community you gain access to post topics, communicate with members, upload your photos and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and free so why wait, join our Mustang community today! If you have any problems with registration or your account login, please contact support.

Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

Classic Forums | Classic Talk | Classic Tech | Classic Pictures | Introductions | Mustang Tech | Mustang Lounge 


Reply   Post New Thread
Unread 06-30-2012   #1 (permalink)
gernblan is offline Rookie

Classic Member


Joined: May 2012
Posts: 10 Threads: 3
 gernblan's Country Flag
Utica   New York
gernblan is on a distinguished road
Question 1966 mustang engine rebuild gone bad?

Hi all,

I have a 1965 mustang that had a worn 6 cyl 200 cid engine in it. Over the winter I had another engine rebuilt by our local engine shop. The rebuilt engine has numbers showing it is a 1966 6 cyl 200. So, Ive been doing the engine swap over the last 2 weeks with a friend of mine. Finally got to the point of starting it up yesterday. It would turn over, but not start. We checked for a good spark and fuel. Spark was good, but fuel seemed not to be there. We decided to put starter fluid down carb to try to start again. It kinda started to try to start, but we had a backfire, so we stopped. We decided to recheck all hookups to see if we had done anything wrong.

Thats when we noticed that we had installed the distributor 180 degrees off. To make things worse we had the spark plug wires wrong too, so firing order was off. After fixing those 2 problems, we tried starting it again. It took a while, but started up rough, then smoothed out pretty good. We had the valve cover off so we could verify that oil was appearing, it was. But then we noticed this "clunking" noise towards the back of the engine, towards the rear of engine/bell housing area but couldnt really nail down where it was coming from. We shifted the transmission thru reverse and park, etc and it seemed fine. Thats when we shut it off.

So, here's my question: Could that backfire I mentioned above have "broken" something? What could be causing the clunk,clunk,clunk noise? Engine shop do something wrong?

BTW, The transmission was refurbished and checked out also just last week during the install.

Thanks in advance.
gernblan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Unread 06-30-2012   #2 (permalink)
kenash is offline GT Member


Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,750 Threads: 2
 kenash's Country Flag  View kenash's 14 photos
Severna Park, MD.   Maryland
kenash is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gernblan View Post
Hi all,

I have a 1965 mustang that had a worn 6 cyl 200 cid engine in it. Over the winter I had another engine rebuilt by our local engine shop. The rebuilt engine has numbers showing it is a 1966 6 cyl 200. So, Ive been doing the engine swap over the last 2 weeks with a friend of mine. Finally got to the point of starting it up yesterday. It would turn over, but not start. We checked for a good spark and fuel. Spark was good, but fuel seemed not to be there. We decided to put starter fluid down carb to try to start again. It kinda started to try to start, but we had a backfire, so we stopped. We decided to recheck all hookups to see if we had done anything wrong.

Thats when we noticed that we had installed the distributor 180 degrees off. To make things worse we had the spark plug wires wrong too, so firing order was off. After fixing those 2 problems, we tried starting it again. It took a while, but started up rough, then smoothed out pretty good. We had the valve cover off so we could verify that oil was appearing, it was. But then we noticed this "clunking" noise towards the back of the engine, towards the rear of engine/bell housing area but couldnt really nail down where it was coming from. We shifted the transmission thru reverse and park, etc and it seemed fine. Thats when we shut it off.

So, here's my question: Could that backfire I mentioned above have "broken" something? What could be causing the clunk,clunk,clunk noise? Engine shop do something wrong?

BTW, The transmission was refurbished and checked out also just last week during the install.

Thanks in advance.
Hi,
I'd say, a typical carb back fire, would not, as you described it, cause a mechanical failure. You mentioned, you cycled the transmission through a couple of gears, "it seemed fine", you stopped. Why, if it seemed fine, did you stop and not proceed to fine tuning?
__________________
Ken
Severna Park, MD
1964 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt Resto-Mod
333 cu.in, dual Webers, CI cam, TW heads,TRI-Ys, 3.55 rear, T5z, TCP susp., real leather seating
kenash is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 06-30-2012   #3 (permalink)
gernblan is offline Rookie

Classic Member


Joined: May 2012
Posts: 10 Threads: 3
 gernblan's Country Flag
Utica   New York
gernblan is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenash View Post
Hi,
I'd say, a typical carb back fire, would not, as you described it, cause a mechanical failure. You mentioned, you cycled the transmission through a couple of gears, "it seemed fine", you stopped. Why, if it seemed fine, did you stop and not proceed to fine tuning?
Ken,

Thanks for the reply. By "it seemed fine", I meant that the transmission seemed to be ok by feeling it going into different gears. We stopped because the "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise was constant and I dont know what it is yet. Didnt want to do more damage by keeping it running.

Dave
gernblan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 06-30-2012   #4 (permalink)
cindys_sn95 is offline Banned


Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 7,991 Threads: 25
 cindys_sn95's Country Flag  View cindys_sn95's 7 photos
Gulfport   Mississippi
cindys_sn95 is on a distinguished road
Default

check the converter nuts.
cindys_sn95 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 06-30-2012   #5 (permalink)
kenash is offline GT Member


Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,750 Threads: 2
 kenash's Country Flag  View kenash's 14 photos
Severna Park, MD.   Maryland
kenash is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by gernblan View Post
Ken,

Thanks for the reply. By "it seemed fine", I meant that the transmission seemed to be ok by feeling it going into different gears. We stopped because the "clunk,clunk,clunk" noise was constant and I dont know what it is yet. Didnt want to do more damage by keeping it running.

Dave
OK, I understand that. With that valve cover off, did all of the rockers look like they were cycling correctly? Be absolutely sure you have the correct firing order in place. I know with some V8s, with a couple of wires switched the engine will start and run but will after fire through the exhaust and make what appears to be a clinking noise. So, re-visit. Do you have a vac gauge to connect and read the engine's breathing health? It can also be used to adjust your carb's curb idle quality.
Good Luck!
__________________
Ken
Severna Park, MD
1964 1/2 Poppy Red Cvt Resto-Mod
333 cu.in, dual Webers, CI cam, TW heads,TRI-Ys, 3.55 rear, T5z, TCP susp., real leather seating
kenash is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 06-30-2012   #6 (permalink)
thedrummer021 is offline Made Member

Classic Member
4.6L Member


Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 461 Threads: 29
 thedrummer021's Country Flag
Gardena   California
thedrummer021 is on a distinguished road
Default

I'm with cindys, The torque converter could be hitting something if it was not seated properly. A "clunk clunk" sounds like something hitting over and over as it's cycling. Can you try to narrow down where the sound is coming from?
thedrummer021 is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 06-30-2012   #7 (permalink)
pablito is offline Apprentice


Joined: May 2008
Posts: 59 Threads: 0
 pablito's Country Flag
LaVale   Maryland
pablito is on a distinguished road
Default

Any kind of clunking generally isn't a good thing, but it also doesn't mean that damage was done.
- Is the timing set correctly?
- are the valves adjusted correctly?
You said that it started rough then smoothened out. Did it smooth out on it's own or were you making adjustments to smoothen it out?
pablito is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-02-2012   #8 (permalink)
gernblan is offline Rookie

Classic Member


Joined: May 2012
Posts: 10 Threads: 3
 gernblan's Country Flag
Utica   New York
gernblan is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cindys_sn95 View Post
check the converter nuts.
While checking the converter I found the problem. It wasnt the converter. The crank is rubbing the oil pan. I havent determined why yet. Maybe the oil pan got dented during the rebuild or install. Time to crawl under again. :<(
gernblan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-02-2012   #9 (permalink)
Explorer is offline GT Member

Classic Member


Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,171 Threads: 12
 Explorer's Country Flag
Raphine   Virginia
Explorer is on a distinguished road
Default

That will do it!. Knew I had a dented pan, but it was clearing till tranny was removed and rebuilt. Must have gotten dented a little more. Attitude adjustment with hammer and all is well.
__________________
66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
Explorer is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-02-2012   #10 (permalink)
gernblan is offline Rookie

Classic Member


Joined: May 2012
Posts: 10 Threads: 3
 gernblan's Country Flag
Utica   New York
gernblan is on a distinguished road
Question oil pan dents photos

Attached are pictures of the oil pan and dents. Do the dents look "big" enough to cause this noise from rubbing the crank?
Attached Thumbnails
1966 mustang engine rebuild gone bad?-20120702_104316.jpg  1966 mustang engine rebuild gone bad?-20120702_104340.jpg  1966 mustang engine rebuild gone bad?-20120702_104355.jpg  
gernblan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-02-2012   #11 (permalink)
Explorer is offline GT Member

Classic Member


Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,171 Threads: 12
 Explorer's Country Flag
Raphine   Virginia
Explorer is on a distinguished road
Default

Yep, it'll be obvious when you pull the pan. Luckily, not a bad job on these.
__________________
66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
Explorer is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-03-2012   #12 (permalink)
Bryonl is offline PONY Member

Classic Member


Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 888 Threads: 18
 Bryonl's Country Flag
San Antonio   Texas
Bryonl is on a distinguished road
Default

Maybe I'm missing something, but isn't the oil pick-up more likely to be affected by dents in the bottom of the pan?
Bryonl is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-03-2012   #13 (permalink)
Explorer is offline GT Member

Classic Member


Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,171 Threads: 12
 Explorer's Country Flag
Raphine   Virginia
Explorer is on a distinguished road
Default

Sump portion of pan would affect pickup. The shallow portion of pan is close to crank.
__________________
66 Coupe 200ci I6 Stock
66 Bronco half cab 203ci I6, CI aluminum Head and intake, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header, Isky cam, KB pistons 9.7:1 comp, DSII ignition
Explorer is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Unread 07-04-2012   #14 (permalink)
gernblan is offline Rookie

Classic Member


Joined: May 2012
Posts: 10 Threads: 3
 gernblan's Country Flag
Utica   New York
gernblan is on a distinguished road
Smile 1966 mustang 200 6 cyl engine oil pan problem - solved

Thanks for everyones input on this problem. It turned out to be the dented oil pan causing the crank to hit it.

The fix was: Drain the oil pan. Jack up the front onto blocks. Remove front stabilizer bar. Disconnect 1 auto transmission line at the radiator. Remove the oil pan bolts and pan. I used a block of wood to rest the pan on (where the dent was) so I could use another piece of wood to hammer out the dent from the inside of the pan. The gasket was fine since it was a brand new engine rebuild, so I just added some oil resistant sealant onto the oil pan rim. Carefully place oil pan back in place and start all bolts to hand tight. Tighten to torque specs (7-9 for this engine) starting from center bolts working towards each end of the oil pan. reconnect the auto transmission line. Re-install the stabilizer bar. Lower the car off of the blocks. Add oil back in. Start the car and check for oil leaks and verify the clunk is gone. :<)
gernblan is offline  
Digg this Post!Add Post to del.icio.usBookmark Post in TechnoratiTweet this Post!
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply   Post New Thread

Tags
1966, 200 6 cylinder, clunk, noise



Thread Tools



Mustang Photos
Mustang Links    Top Sites    RSS    Link To Us    Add to Favorites    Archive    Terms of Use    Site Rules    Privacy    Contact    Sponsors    Advertise   
AllFordMustangs is not affiliated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company. ©Copyright 2002-2011 All Auto Enthusiasts Network

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162