Discuss Duraspark II conversion- red and white wires on AllFordMustangs.com, the place for Mustang enthusiasts.
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I have a 68 i6 and was wondering exactly what to do with the red and white wires from the control module? I've seen diagrams but I'm still not exactly sure what to do and what to do with the pink wire.
I think that is correct and also you need to bypass the pink wire, so that the coil and duraspark gets battery voltage when the ignition key is in the run position, the diagram shows not using the pink wire at all and the other end which I believe is red/grn and running a new wire from the RUN side of the ignition switch to the coil pos terminal and the red wire of the Duraspark module. Also don't forget to disconnect the wire on the "I" terminal of the starter solonoid, otherwise you could back feed the electrical system. It also might not be a bad idea to install a fuse in series with the new power wire to the coil and duraspark module, maybe a 10 to 15 amp automotive spade fuse, they are more reliable than the glass fuse holders. I have never done this, however, I have had a car with the Duraspark Ignition, I think my car was too hot under the hood as I had to replace the ignition module almost every year, luckily they are cheap, I doubt if anyone else has had this problem. Good Luck.
Last edited by rex1965; 01-02-2013 at 11:11 PM.
Reason: more info
So I've gotten everything hooked up and when I went to start up the car I got 2 puffs of black smoke out of the carb and then a huge boom!! Like someone set off a bomb. Not sure what to do know or the cause.
Really appreciate any help...please :-)
FYI..I Cut the pink wire and ran the end of the pink wire that is connected to the ignition switch to a new red wire that runs to the coil and control module. I do not have the white wire hooked up but the brown wire at the solenoid is disconnected.
How did you time the engine, I would have turned the engine over until the rotor was at the no. 1 plug wire and check the timing marks on the harmonic balancer and turned the engine with a wrench until it was on the timing mark like 6btc on the old dist before I removed to install the new the same way, then you would have to put a timing light on it to set the timing. If you just pulled the old one out and didn't check and put the new one in, it could be timed anywhere. You need to get the engine on the compression stroke of No. 1 cylinder and turn it with a wrench until you get to the timing marks where it should be and check the position of the rotor, if it is on another cylinder, you will have to pull the dist and reposition it until it is on No. 1, then put the timing light on it to time it, as the timing could still be many degrees off. To time one initially, in the old days with points and cond, when you got the engine on the comp stroke No. 1 and timing marks lined up, we could turn the dist a little ccw and the with the key on and the coil hv wire next to the intake, rotate the dist cw slowly and when the points opened, you would get a spark, so you could tighten down the dist, and be with 2 degrees of where the timing should be, I am not sure if you can do that with the duraspark as it has a magnetic pickup. ALso check your firing order on the plug wires, 18.104.22.168.2.4 I think. Good Luck.
Last edited by rex1965; 01-05-2013 at 05:49 PM.
Reason: more info
You need to pull the No. 1 spark plug out, using a ratchet and socket to turn the engine over with the ignition off, turn it clockwise viewing it from the front of the car, with your thumb covering the spark plug hole, when the compression of the engine pushes your thumb out, No.1 is coming up on the compression stroke, then check the timing marks, you should need to turn it clockwise some more until your timing marks line up, then STOP turning, then note the position of the rotor, it should be pointing at the 1 on the dist cap, if not you need to pull the dist and get it inserted so that it is. Good Luck.
Anyone have any ideas why the distributor won't seat? I realized the distributor was not seated on the oil pump shaft. After hours and hours of wiggle, jam, and turning I am still unable to fit/seat the distributor onto the oil pump shaft.