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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-30-2005   #1 (permalink)
65 Fastaback is offline Apprentice

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Default How to remove the body off frame of 1965 Fastback.

Hello,

I would like to know the steps needed in removing the body off of the frame of my 65 Fastback.
Just how involved is it? I want to replace the floors, gas tank and beef up the frame. In the event I do a GT350 clone, it seems it would be easier if the body was off. Also, any experience or blueprints on making a roll cage and correct placement?

Thanks.

Joe
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Unread 01-30-2005   #2 (permalink)
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um, a Mustang is a uni-body car, the frame is part of the body. The floors are very important, have a pro replace them. The gas tank is held in by bolts. As for the chassis, get Total Control sub frame connectors, an export brace, and a Monte Carlo bar
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Unread 01-31-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Are you an ex Chevy guy or somethin'. Classic Mustangs are unibody cars as pita said. The floors are very crucial. If you don't have the $$$ for a professional floor replacement, you need a rotisserie to mount the car on to do the frame and chassis work. If you can't get a rotisserie then make sure your shop floor is level!!! Then level out the car the best way you can w/o it falling off your stands. Then replace one floor at a time! I helped a guy do a '66 coupe one time and we screwed the whole car up.

That's why I did mine the right way. If you replace the fuel tank, you might want to look and your rear frame rails and the trunk lip that the trunk bolts to you never know what restructuring you might need.

Use pita's suggestion for a performance suspension system. As far as the roll cage goes... I haven't did that on a Mustang yet, just a rail buggy. It should be simple if you can find one of the people on here who have done it to tell you the weld points.

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"yeah though I walk through the valley of the shadow of rice, I will fear no turbo for torque art with me. Thy rods and thy crankshaft, they comfort me."

1965 Fastback 289 hi-po 3sp.
1973 coupe 302 4V auto. -SOLD
1965 coupe 200 I6 (bench seat option)
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Unread 02-01-2005   #4 (permalink)
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I have a friend who builds full-tube chassis and roll cages and pretty much anything high-performance. Anyway, he happens to have a 65 Fastback in his shop right now that be built a full-tube chassis for, but that differs from your situation since you're keeping the original chassis but adding a roll cage.

As far as building a roll cage, I wouldn't suggest you doing one unless you know how to weld well and are good with metal fabrication. You're going to want to weld to the frame though, not just the floor. So like you'd wanna put your new floors in, and then mark on the floors where the frame runs under it. Because the idea of a roll cage is to protect you if your car goes into a roll, and if you're just welding it to your floor sheet metal, it'll tear that up in a heartbeat with a 3000 pound car coming down on it. I plan to build a roll cage for my 67 Coupe sometime, but my next project is an engine hoist and engine stand all in one, and it will be able to fold up for easy storage to boot!

Anyway, places like Mustangs Plus sell premade roll cages. I'm not sure how good they are so I can't recommend them and I can't put them down either.

Lastly, MAKE SURE YOUR FRAME RAILS ARE GOOD!! If your rails are no good, then the finest roll cage in the world will do you no good, because it will just go right through the rails on impact. A good idea is to tear out any panels you know need replaced, then take the car to be sandblasted. The sandblasting will show you any other panels that may need to be replaced that you might not have saw earlier. Metal is a very tricky thing, and what looks strong is not always strong.

Any other questions, go ahead and shoot em by me.
 
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Unread 02-05-2005   #5 (permalink)
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Default Re: 65 Fastback restoration

Thanks for your responses.
I'm debating now as to how original I want to keep it.
Since its an Inline six (not original motor) then the thought of cloning a GT350 comes to mind.
The roll cage idea was being thought of if I were to pursue a correct clone. I will admit, prior to buying this mustang, I owned a 65 GTO and a 72 Corvette so I was a GM guy for about 10 years. I forgot the mustang had a unibody. I didn't do any work to my 69 or 71 Mach Is back in the day, just cleaned them up and drove em' hard. How can I get a good look at the frame rails condition without removing the gas tank or rear end? I will not be the one performing the work, just the one paying for it so I would like to know what I would be getting myself into. How expensive and would it be worth it to build a tubular frame as previously mentioned?

Thanks.

Joe
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Unread 02-05-2005   #6 (permalink)
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An all-tube frame is gonna be very expensive and unless you're going to be putting in a monster motor with lots of horsies and makin it a strip car, you don't need one. Just give it some added support such as subframe connectors, monte carlo bar, traction bars, etc. Also, the only way to get a good look at your frame rails and what not, is to jack the car up and get under to look. But this isn't 100%, because one you say take out your floor pans, you might notice that they're rotting from the inside towards the outside. But you really don't need a tubular frame. They're nice, but expensive and overkill for anything but a complete strip car.
 
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