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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 01-23-2013   #1 (permalink)
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Default '66 Axle bearing in wrong spot?

It seems to me that the axle bearing is almost an inch pushed over form where it should be. The axle sticks out a bit and the drum isn't in the correct location.

This makes sense considering for some reason that side of the car would rub and stick out some more than the other. (This is the passenger side axle)

Now, does this look right to you or is there something I'm not getting here..? Looks to me that it should have been in the shiny portion and sitting flush closer to the axle retaining plate.

I'm going to take it to the rear end shop and have them weld a tire stud since one of them is sheared off, may have them press on a new bearing?
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'66 Axle bearing in wrong spot?-45907_10151359360449231_383454720_n.jpg  
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Unread 01-23-2013   #2 (permalink)
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Yes, that bearing and retainer should be pressed down until it bottoms out. I would replace with new parts before you press together.
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Unread 01-23-2013   #3 (permalink)
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How much will that run me? I have the axle already out and sitting.
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Unread 01-24-2013   #4 (permalink)
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I would do both sides as they are just as old and likely to fail. If you have an 8" or 9" it should be the same bearing RW207CCA - $15 to $20 ea. and a new pair of seals. The last shop I had press off/on was ~$30 to do both.
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Unread 01-24-2013   #5 (permalink)
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Once its been incorrectly installed, i.e. screwed up, by not seating the bearing correctly you can't just push that bearing down. You can't push the bearing and collar at the same time. You have to remove the bearing and collar and press on a new one of both to the correct position. I am surprised that the axle splines engaged in the differential with that bearing - unless its the wrong shaft??
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Unread 01-24-2013   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happystang View Post
How much will that run me? I have the axle already out and sitting.
I paid around 75 for the new bearings and new seals.
The machine shop charged 45 to remove the old ones and press on the new ones. They also bead blasted the shafts and checked them out.
If you have the axles out be sure to replace the seals.

Pictures of the axle and rear end change out:
3.55 Trac Lok Rear

Good Luck and BE Safe
Ron
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Unread 01-24-2013   #7 (permalink)
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Maybe the bearing slid along the axle when you pulled it out, this could explain why it's not where it should be.
Was the bearing sliding on the axle?

The axle is bolted to the diff so the position of the bearing is really irrelevant.
You could have a longer axle in that the previous owner replaced with the wrong one.
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Unread 01-24-2013   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivy66GT View Post
Once its been incorrectly installed, i.e. screwed up, by not seating the bearing correctly you can't just push that bearing down. You can't push the bearing and collar at the same time. You have to remove the bearing and collar and press on a new one of both to the correct position. I am surprised that the axle splines engaged in the differential with that bearing - unless its the wrong shaft??

That's what's funny, they were engaged for a bit and I noticed that the tire on that side was sticking out some and rubbing, then the car just wouldn't move and was making an annoying grinding sound from the diff!

Pulled the axles and diff, diff bearings were toast along with what ever is inside those things so I have a 3.80 posi waiting for this axle to be done
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Unread 01-24-2013   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony 64 View Post
Maybe the bearing slid along the axle when you pulled it out, this could explain why it's not where it should be.
Was the bearing sliding on the axle?

The axle is bolted to the diff so the position of the bearing is really irrelevant.
You could have a longer axle in that the previous owner replaced with the wrong one.
This is not the case with this set up, the bearing and retainer are the only thing holding the axle in. The little sleeve behind the bearing is the tightest press fit and is there to prevent the bearing from sliding. It is unusual for those to move without cracking or bearing failure.
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Unread 01-25-2013   #10 (permalink)
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So my next question is... HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE?!
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Unread 01-25-2013   #11 (permalink)
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I would say it was installed incorrectly. The shaft outside the bearing is not bright and shiny so nothing has been riding there for a long time.

Its next to impossible to get those lock collars to move even with a press because there is no way to grip or get behind them. They are usually cut off with an air grinder and cold chisel.
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