[skelwyth]

This site is really helpfull. I would like to ask if anyone knows how to paint a car. I am gettingh ready to paint my 67 mustang red. I bought some Valspar refinish. Apparently because it says on the can "For proffesional use only" There are no instructions. So it seems like a big secret. Anyway the guy in the store told me. After priming I mix the red paint 50/50 with the reducer then spay the car red. Then I take the clear coat and spray it over that within 12 hours of putting the red on. The part that sounds wrong to me is, he claims I shouldn't sand the red. I always hear about color sanding so I am a little confused. He also says I don't sand the clearcoat between coats. Do we have any professionals out there who could comfirm this is correct.
Thanks

[67coupe]

I have painted with the PPG 2 stage paints and the color coat is like spraying primer. Almost no overspray. Ten minutes after you spray it it is dry to the touch and it covers in one coat. I did put three coats on, but 1/2 a pint painted a hood, two fenders and a door.

I got one sag around an air scoop and wet sanded it with 600 before spraying clear. I couldn't tell where the sanding was done so I would think it made no difference. Just make sure the body is smooth before you paint because ever defect will show when you put on the color.

[BadlandsGhost]

I've never done it (to a car at least), but am going to eventually. At this point, the two best things I can advise would be first: research, and lots of it. Different paints and primers act differently together. Not to mention that painting itself is a bit of an art. Sounds kinda like (I'm guessing since I wasnt there) the guy was just trying to get you closed, and out of his shop. Make sure the primer synchs with the other coats, etc. This is why going with one particuar brand is important.
As far as wet sanding, I'm far from pro, hell, far from amateur , But unless its a special type of paint, i.e. candy, mystic or mica, I dont see why wet sanding would be so bad.
And secondly, like 67 said, prep is the most important step. Make sure everything ducky before even touching the spray gun.
Without getting too far into it, just my .02.
J

[goelze]

I just got done with my 65' Coupe, for the 2nd time. I will tell you like the others...make sure the car is ready by plenty of guide coat and block sanding prior to putting color on it. I thought those little dents would not be so bad...they are when you are done, hence the 2nd time. Anyway, as far as the mix, ask a different paint shop if your unsure of the mix ratio or go to the paint and body work tech page of this web site and ask that particular question. I have heard of sanding the paint prior to clear coating but did not do this myself so I am not sure of all the details. The color sand that I was taught to do and did on my car was done after I put all my coats of clear on it and it cured, not to sand between coats. If you need more details of what I did you can PM me or like I said earlier go to the paint and body tech section. Good luck.

[skelwyth]

Well I tried doing what he said on the inside of the hood. I suppose everything went fairly straight forward. My clear coat is rough in areas. It looks like it needs sanding down and another coat added. It is dry looking in parts and great in others. The Guy said one coat is all that is required. Well then either I am creating overspray with too much air pressure. Or am I supposed to wait 3 months and buff it out with rubbing compound or do I sand it with wet & dry and spray another coat in which case does that need to be done within 12 hours. In which case I will need more than the 1 gallon he sold me. Any thoughts?

[dlinebar]

I am glad you asked as I plan to pain my own car too. Is the guide coat what you use to take out the small little dings? I have some very small dings and saw where it looks like the car is skim coated and then sanded. Is that skim coat the guide coat, if so what is a good brand to get?

THANKS

[fastbck65]

As a guide coat, after you've finished all your blocking (before the color) apply a layer of primer opposite the color you just primed with. (i.e. rust oxide to gray or vice-versa)

Then block again. The guide coat will reveal all the high and low spots that need more attention. Then you know what areas to work on.

[67coupe]

You may have used to much air pressure. I always apply color or clear at about 25psi. You have to get a little close to lay it on good, but there is no overspray.

[skelwyth]

Yes but can the 1st coat of clear coat be sanded and a second one applied on top? The guy in the store told me just one coat applied within 12 hours of the color coat. When I told him I wanted to add a black stripe over the red he said mask the lines on top of the clearcoat, then paint the black, then add another clear coat. The clear coat does not seem to be dry enough in 12 hours to want to use masking tape on it, so I assume a second clear coat would need to be done several days later. This is where I am getting confused.
Thanks

[goelze]

When you said some areas looked dry and others looked good it sounds like it was not applied evenly. Also, make sure everything is clean prior to color or clear, use a tack or lint free clothe prior to spray or you will have rough areas in your finish that you mentioned. You can wet sand your clear and re-spray clear again on it. When you do, sand it enough so there is no shiny/glossy areas from you clear (scuff it up), but also don't go so far or hard and get down into your paint again. You essentially do the same thing when you get ready to color sand and buff to remove the orange peel, but you will go with a finer grit. One coat under your hood should be plenty unless your going for show. When you do wet sand be very, very careful of any edge (put tape on the edge if you have to) when you sand or you will burn through the clear down to your paint and that is not good. While putting clear on my car, I waited about 20 -25 minutes prior to the next coat, alternating sides of the car, so by the time I got done with the second side the first side was ready for the next. I am not sure about the stripe, I thought that went on prior to any clear, mine is just a solid color. Good luck.

[Stratdeath]

Hi, I have used Acrylic Enamel on my car, but I'm not totally satisfied with it. I am wondering if I want to go to something like urethane base/clear if anyone has any tips for this? Will any remnants of the enamel upset the urethane? Any thoughts are appreciated! Thanks