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Old 08-20-2005   #1 (permalink)
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Talking How to get more HP out of my 1968 mustang's 302 engine?

I have a 1968 mustang coupe 302 i want to get it to at least 350 HP what can i do to get it there?
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Old 08-22-2005   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 1968 mustang coupe 302 i want to get it to at least 350 HP what can i do to get it there?
Jeez, man! How often are you going to ask the question?!
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Old 08-22-2005   #3 (permalink)
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Old 08-22-2005   #4 (permalink)
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why what does it matter to you how many times i ask that question?
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Old 08-22-2005   #5 (permalink)
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dang you would think a MUSTANG FORUM would know more about mustangs!!!!!!!
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Old 08-22-2005   #6 (permalink)
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supercharge it .
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Old 08-22-2005   #7 (permalink)
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slap a blower, turbo and a 3000 psi nitrous bottle to it.


All at once...............then pull the trigger.

Um, how long did you want the motor to last by the way? More or less than 10 feet down the road?
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Old 08-22-2005   #8 (permalink)
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slap a blower, turbo and a 3000 psi nitrous bottle to it.


All at once...............then pull the trigger.

Um, how long did you want the motor to last by the way? More or less than 10 feet down the road?
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Old 08-22-2005   #9 (permalink)
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Find a set of '68-'73 351w heads (they have bigger valves and smaller combustion chambers,) ream out the exhaust ports (there's a nasty little emissions hump that greatly impedes flow,) get a single plane 4bbl intake and 600cfm carb, get a Trick Flow cam rated for 2500-6000 rpm (be sure to buy the compatable lifters and valve springs.) If you're rebuilding the block, don't use TRW pistons; they will reduce the compression ratio. Buy the rebuild kit that doesn't include the pistons and buy Silvolite (Keith Black) pistons. They retain the original compression height and they are hypereutectic(sp) or in other words, they have more silicone content and do not expand as much as regular cast or forged units. Use an MSD ignition and headers. and that should about do it.
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Old 08-23-2005   #10 (permalink)
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Find a set of '68-'73 351w heads (they have bigger valves and smaller combustion chambers,) ream out the exhaust ports (there's a nasty little emissions hump that greatly impedes flow,) get a single plane 4bbl intake and 600cfm carb, get a Trick Flow cam rated for 2500-6000 rpm (be sure to buy the compatable lifters and valve springs.) If you're rebuilding the block, don't use TRW pistons; they will reduce the compression ratio. Buy the rebuild kit that doesn't include the pistons and buy Silvolite (Keith Black) pistons. They retain the original compression height and they are hypereutectic(sp) or in other words, they have more silicone content and do not expand as much as regular cast or forged units. Use an MSD ignition and headers. and that should about do it.

Psssht! if you're going factory, then go with a clevor combination.

Posting the same question over and over just takes up space ont he server, and serves no useful purpose. Just bump one of the previous q's.
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Old 08-23-2005   #11 (permalink)
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so, doesnt matter to me
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Old 08-23-2005   #12 (permalink)
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ya ill probably have my dad just buy a 351 for it.... thats the good thing i have no budget
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Old 08-24-2005   #13 (permalink)
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I am not 100% sure about this, but supposedly the mid 90's or late 90's Ford Explorer had the 5.0 with GT40 heads, and those heads are available from your local boneyard for a decent price. Being better heads that most Ford SB heads it seems like that would be a good deal. You can get a roller cam conversion kit and go with the SVO X303 cam, and then if you carburet the motor, go with the Edelbrock Torker and a 650 carb. I think that will put you over 300 but I am not sure if you're going to get 350 hp non-aspirated.
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