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Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 08-19-2013   #1 (permalink)
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Default valve adjustment

Just replaced the lifters in my 64.5 with 260 engine the shop manual tells me to go two turns after zero lash but every thing I have read is one turn any input ???
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Unread 08-19-2013   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 64 pony View Post
Just replaced the lifters in my 64.5 with 260 engine the shop manual tells me to go two turns after zero lash but every thing I have read is one turn any input ???
Valve adjust I believe is the same as the 289 engine. I looked in the book and it's a process that takes some time and reading up on it. Your best bet is to follow your service manual instruction. You need a remote starter switch or turn the crankshaft by hand. You might find a video at You-Tube. I would go 3/4 turn on the rocker stud nut once you take up the clearance between the rocker arm and push rod.

Jeff
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Unread 08-19-2013   #3 (permalink)
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what I always do when I do valves and what I have found to work well where they don't run open nor do they have clatter is to slowly tighten the nut while spinning the push rod in my fingers. when I feel the slightest bit of drag I turn the nut one half turn. im sure you can find the pattern online that says whenever such and such intake lifter is at the dwell of its lift adjust this other such and such lifter. the same goes with the exhaust lobes.

iv done 3 engines for other individuals with hydraulics using this method and they always seem to come out perfect. ford and chevy alike.

I also soak the lifters for 24 hours before I install them, that way when you go to prime the oiling system they will pump up quickly, or if you don't prime the oiling system, they should pump up relatively quickly in the first minute or so of turning the motor over.

that's my .02
I believe this is the pattern
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Unread 08-19-2013   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadhick429 View Post
what I always do when I do valves and what I have found to work well where they don't run open nor do they have clatter is to slowly tighten the nut while spinning the push rod in my fingers. when I feel the slightest bit of drag I turn the nut one half turn. im sure you can find the pattern online that says whenever such and such intake lifter is at the dwell of its lift adjust this other such and such lifter. the same goes with the exhaust lobes.

iv done 3 engines for other individuals with hydraulics using this method and they always seem to come out perfect. ford and chevy alike.

I also soak the lifters for 24 hours before I install them, that way when you go to prime the oiling system they will pump up quickly, or if you don't prime the oiling system, they should pump up relatively quickly in the first minute or so of turning the motor over.

that's my .02
maybe someone can join in with the pattern as I am too lazy to find it at the moment.
I found the procedure but will take quite awhile to type the directions. I'm lazy and not that great of typist. With lifters I place one in a can of oil then place the push rod in the center and push down several times. You can see a bit of air coming from the side hole on the lifter. When no more air come out it's fill of oil and can be placed in it's bore. This procedure has worked numerous times for me.

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Unread 08-19-2013   #5 (permalink)
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if they are "pressurized" in that manner, I believe my method will not work.

I wish I could find the pattern for the fords I used to use. ever since the first motor I have run solids so its a bit different. too bad the chevy pattern isn't the same, I just got done with a vette 350 at the beginning of this month and have the pattern on hand.

hopefully someone chimes in with the pattern. if you have the pattern, then it is very easy to adjust the valves in the method that I have previously stated. definitely DO NOT go two full turns after you feel drag on the pushrod. you valves will be guaranteed to run open when the motor warms up and the metal components expand. 1/2 turn is plenty. many builders only go 1/4 after the drag as a safety so that their customers engines don't run open. I use 1/2
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Unread 08-19-2013   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gearheadhick429 View Post
if they are "pressurized" in that manner, I believe my method will not work.

I wish I could find the pattern for the fords I used to use. ever since the first motor I have run solids so its a bit different. too bad the chevy pattern isn't the same, I just got done with a vette 350 at the beginning of this month and have the pattern on hand.

hopefully someone chimes in with the pattern. if you have the pattern, then it is very easy to adjust the valves in the method that I have previously stated. definitely DO NOT go two full turns after you feel drag on the pushrod. you valves will be guaranteed to run open when the motor warms up and the metal components expand. 1/2 turn is plenty. many builders only go 1/4 after the drag as a safety so that their customers engines don't run open. I use 1/2

Maybe this will help the OP:

| Repair Guides | Engine Mechanical | Valve Lash | AutoZone.com

Jeff
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Unread 08-19-2013   #7 (permalink)
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my next question for you is why did you replace the lifters?

are you running zinc in your oil? the zinc levels are much too low in modern oil to support a flat tappet cam.
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Unread 08-19-2013   #8 (permalink)
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I adjust mine with the engine running.
Here is my write up:
Valves

Good Luck and be safe
Ron
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Unread 08-20-2013   #9 (permalink)
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First, the turn the push rod method does not work well with old parts that have polished contact points. I nearly trashed my engine that way because I ended up about 4 turns on most nuts. It ran, just barely. When I did the zero lash by moving the push rod up and down, plus the 3/4 turn, it work fine.

I have also used both tightening sequence methods and found doing each cylinder at TDC works best. The other only uses 2 crank positions instead of 8, but you have to remember the intake and exhaust valves switch from side to side. You do a mixture of valves at each position. It just makes it to confusing for occasional use.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driveway View Post
First, the turn the push rod method does not work well with old parts that have polished contact points. I nearly trashed my engine that way because I ended up about 4 turns on most nuts. It ran, just barely. When I did the zero lash by moving the push rod up and down, plus the 3/4 turn, it work fine.

I have also used both tightening sequence methods and found doing each cylinder at TDC works best. The other only uses 2 crank positions instead of 8, but you have to remember the intake and exhaust valves switch from side to side. You do a mixture of valves at each position. It just makes it to confusing for occasional use.
I can see your point with the polished contact points. I have never set valves except for on a full rebuild so that is very good advice if that is truly the case.

if TDC works, then I would second that to the OP. that's how I have always set my solids.

I personally have always used the sequence method, though that's only on the 350s, it has worked flawlessly every time and is really rather simple. of course the ford sequence is different.

anywho, I choose to bow out of this one. way too many posters pointing in different directions. . .
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66 restomod View Post
I adjust mine with the engine running.
Here is my write up:
Valves

Good Luck and be safe
Ron
This would be useful when having a running engine. The op's engine hasn't yet fired up. I've adjusted valves in the past with the engine running. First time I didn't use rocker clips to deflect the oil that would shoot out the end of the push rod. Man, I had oil everywhere. I was smart enough to remove one valve cover/side at a time. LOL

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Originally Posted by 64 pony View Post
Just replaced the lifters in my 64.5 with 260 engine the shop manual tells me to go two turns after zero lash but every thing I have read is one turn any input ???
Got to ask.....Why did you change out the lifters? Did you also change out the camshaft as well? If the camshaft lobes are still good on the old cam you can use new lifters. I've done it before on a 289. Make sure to use plenty of break-in lube and run up the RPM's to about 2,000 for 15-20 minutes and you should be good to go.

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Unread 08-20-2013   #13 (permalink)
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I replaced the lifters because they were noisey two or three would clatter when you first started in the morning then after you drove five to ten miles it sounded like a soild lifter car badly in need of valve adjustment.two weeks ago I pulled the valve covers and adjusted the with the engine running that really don't help.it did make a nice mess. the cam looks to be fine the car is almost fifity years old I think the lifter are not staying pumped up when the engine gets fully warmed up . I just a bite confuzed the ford shop manual says two turns and everbody else says half to one and half.here is a tip I learned when removing old lifters get you a can of AC DELCO X66A this stuff melts the gum off the bottem making them come right out . Sorry about the long post and spelling I got to go adjust my valves and put on my new intake and carb I'll keep you posted thanks all
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Unread 08-20-2013   #14 (permalink)
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It depends upon what Ford shop manual you read. I didn't know any of them went as far as 2 turns but in earlier days the manual said use 1 1/2 turns. Then they decided 1 was better and then later yet they said to only use 3/4 turn. You should be getting the correct idea that its not an exact thing. Most people would now use 3/4 since it was the later spec. Is great precision required? Obviously not since cars ran with all those different adjustments at one time. You are only adjusting the lifter deep enough into the cylinder of oil that it will stay in the 'hydraulic mode', i.e. no lash, while the engine runs. As long as it operates in that mode the number of turns used in the adjustment means nothing.

Changing lifters is a fairly easy and cheap method that usually stops lifter clatter. Sure, it not as good as a new cam AND lifters but its also not nearly as expensive. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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Unread 08-20-2013   #15 (permalink)
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As far as the adjustment goes I went with one and half haven't started it yet still have fuel line to get adapted to the new carb and throttle linkage to adapt.as far as the lifter adjustments go all they are trying to do is center the plunger in the lifter bore .as far as my manual goes two turn just din't set well with me. The 15 years I turned wrenches for a living I never cranked rocker nuts down two turns I'll try 1.5
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