First, the turn the push rod method does not work well with old parts that have polished contact points. I nearly trashed my engine that way because I ended up about 4 turns on most nuts. It ran, just barely. When I did the zero lash by moving the push rod up and down, plus the 3/4 turn, it work fine.
I have also used both tightening sequence methods and found doing each cylinder at TDC works best. The other only uses 2 crank positions instead of 8, but you have to remember the intake and exhaust valves switch from side to side. You do a mixture of valves at each position. It just makes it to confusing for occasional use.
1968, hardtop, 289, C4, seafoam green.
1966, hardtop, 289, original 3 speed, on the road and fun to drive.
1968, hardtop, 200, 3 speed, new project car, Nov 2015