65 Mustang 289 Engine Mount - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006 Thread Starter
ZFX
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65 Mustang 289 Engine Mount

I have the older style 289 engine mount that has the stud through the rubber. And I find after a few months of driving, the passenger side engine mount pulls the rubber from the steel mounting plate that its attached to. I am looking to find some type of direct replacement aftermarket engine mount that will hold up to the torque of my almost stock motor.

I have done a lot of searches for motor mounts, and found that as of 11/65 Ford changed the mount to a different style. And this style is what the performance companies seem to make. I was hoping that someone would have a suggestion of either a place I can buy a better mount that will withstand the torque, or maybe a mod that I can do to the mount that will keep it from ripping apart. I have read about the mount stiffing mod, but I do not know if its going to fix my issue. ( http://www.erareplicas.com/fiaman/engine/mountmod.htm )

Thanks in advance for the help!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-21-2006
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Look at these motor mounts by Total Control.

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/motormounts.html

I have my 289 mounted with them. Very nice and solid.

You will get more vibration through the car though!
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-22-2006 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverblueBP
Look at these motor mounts by Total Control.

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/motormounts.html

I have my 289 mounted with them. Very nice and solid.

You will get more vibration through the car though!
Ya I looked at those (or ones like them) and was hoping to find a replacement that didnt cost so much (wife would love me better) and that would just go in like the OEM and still give me the dampening performance. If that exsists...
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2006
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Using the bolt trick on a set of stock units is the way to fly IMO...cheap and it WORKS!
PS: Add a torque strap too, to help limit engine movement and stress on the mounts...cheap to make...>$20 or so.

66 coupe 5.0/T5, home-brewed power 4 wheel disc setup, 350hp+, looks like it belongs in 1968
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-28-2006
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Why is it breaking the passenger side mount? The engine is going to lift the drivers side when accelerating, so I would expect that side to let loose first. Perhaps there is something else occuring?

1965 Mustang 351W 4bl AT(Older brothers-I built it)
1965 Mustang 289 4bl AT(Mom's joy-I fix/upgrade it!)
1966 F100 428FE 4bl 4sp and 3sp MT
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Putt
Why is it breaking the passenger side mount? The engine is going to lift the drivers side when accelerating, so I would expect that side to let loose first. Perhaps there is something else occuring?
No its the passenger side, and that is the side that lifts when accelerated... You made me think I posted it backwards and had to go and double check. But what I have decided to do is buy a 66 through 70 289, 302 or 351 used engine mount/stand and then upgrade to a polyurathane engine mount. I can get a 66 mount that has 2 metal pieces that keep it from traveling too far, but I figured that an aftermarket would hold up much better over time.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZFX
No its the passenger side, and that is the side that lifts when accelerated...
Uhh no. When accelerating the motor attempts to rotate counter clockwise (as facing it when standing at the front bumper looking at it) putting the lift strain on the driver side mount. This is why torque straps always anchor to the driver side of the motor.

As for ripping the passenger side mount repeatidly, I can't comment...I haven't ripped a mount and I use the same style on my 408c in my 65.

Nick
65FB 408c AOD D.T.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.0 in a 66 View Post
Using the bolt trick on a set of stock units is the way to fly IMO...cheap and it WORKS!
PS: Add a torque strap too, to help limit engine movement and stress on the mounts...cheap to make...>$20 or so.
broke motor mount last night! explain bolt trick on stock mounts
I have a 68 coupe with 450 hp 347 stroker It busted fan shroud
which then busted radiator. I don't want this to happen again
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-30-2010
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Quote:
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broke motor mount last night! explain bolt trick on stock mounts
I have a 68 coupe with 450 hp 347 stroker It busted fan shroud
which then busted radiator. I don't want this to happen again
This is part of the reason I am eliminating the fan on the motor and going with a nice little electric fan, so in the event i go through this, there will be about 6 inches of space to give.

1968, 302 .030 / Comp Cams Magnum 270h #31-414-3 501 lift @ .050 dur 224/224
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The fix for the engine mounts is to drill two holes through the new mount to fit 3/8" to 1/2" bolts through the mount.
Counter sink the bottom side (it is too close to the frame for the heads of a regular bolt) and install socket head countersunk bolts from the bottom. Put Nyloc nuts on the top side and cut the bolts flush with the top of the nut. (torque the nuts first to 35 foot pounds) Install the mounts as you normally do. No more broken mounts. The bolts allow the mounts to compress but they don't let the mounts pull - you get less vibration than with solid mounts but a bit more than with unmodified mounts.
This mod is a good choice for performance street cars.

1966 Coupe
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rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
Project in process
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Quote:
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The fix for the engine mounts is to drill two holes through the new mount to fit 3/8" to 1/2" bolts through the mount.
Counter sink the bottom side (it is too close to the frame for the heads of a regular bolt) and install socket head countersunk bolts from the bottom. Put Nyloc nuts on the top side and cut the bolts flush with the top of the nut. (torque the nuts first to 35 foot pounds) Install the mounts as you normally do. No more broken mounts. The bolts allow the mounts to compress but they don't let the mounts pull - you get less vibration than with solid mounts but a bit more than with unmodified mounts.
This mod is a good choice for performance street cars.
Thanks for the info.
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How thick is the bottom of the mount that enables you to counter sink for a socket head allen bolt?

Do you counter sink it far enough so that the top of the bolt head is flush witht he bottom mount surface?
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I do. It will take the countersink through the metal plate but not enough for the head to go through. The metal is about 3/16" thick. I use 2 grade 8 socket flat head 7/16" NF bolts and standard nuts welded on. The counter sink makes the bolt head flush with the bottom of the mount (or nearly so).

1966 Coupe
351W
Top Loader
rebuilt, rewired, modified for slalom and hill climb
No racing - just a fun car built by and for me.
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