well i'm guessing you have a 68??? its not that bad..
i would highly suggest a T-5 i dropped one in my 67 and i love it.
but you will need to either fabricate or buy a tranny cross member and set up a clutch cable... they sell every thing you need at mustangsplus.com but i think they charge way way too much.. i made mine for $15. i think they want $170 for theirs... otherwise the trany pretty much drops right in... ohhh you had in auto... hmm i think you need to change the flywheel too...
well i know you have to change it... but i dont know what size you need to get... Let me look at home i think i have somting in a book on what you need to do for a swap... i'll scan it for ya if i can find it...
Best thing you can do is find a smashed up mustang that has a T5 i found one for 1G then you have everything you need right there... then just sell the rest of the car when you are done...
Your "68" engine needs a 28 ox imbalance weight. the late model engines use a 50 oz imbalance weight. Buy a flywheel for the early engine, I think the 152 tooth. Any of the modern clutches such as the Centerforce will bolt to the flywheel and work very well with a T5. Just remember to get a T5 Z, the so called "world class" transmission. The others are a bit weak. How are you handling the addition of a clutch pedal to your underdash area?
__________________
Mustang Chuck
Team Manager SCCA Mustang #05,
700HP, 310CID 5Spd Jerico, 97 body & my own 68 Stang Trans Am replica
There's two approaches to using the T5 with your 302 engine:
a. late model bell housing
b. early model bell housing.
Late model bell housing. In this approach you acquire a late model bell housing from an '80's salvage car or buy directly from someone like Windsor-Fox. The assumption here is if you use this approach, you'll likely want to use cable clutch linkage also. This approach is most reliable when used with cable clutch linkage. To do this, you'll also need a cable clutch conversion kit in addition to the clutch pedal and stuff needed to install it under dash. Can you use original z-bar clutch linkage with this approach? Yes, but it requires conversion parts and is generally not as satisfactory as cable clutch.
Early model bell housing. In this approach you use an adapter plate to the back of an early 3 or 4 speed bell housing. Adapter plates are made by California Pony Cars, Inc. Generally this approach is most satisfactory when using original z-bar clutch linkage.
Either approach requires: 28 oz-in imbalance 157 tooth flywheel, manual starter, conversion crossmember (each approach above uses different crossmember), clutch pedal and fasteners.
If you use z-bar clutch linkage then you need: pushrod, boot, z-bar, z-bar mounting kit, engine pivot, frame bracket, lower pushrod, return spring, overcenter spring.
If you use cable clutch linkage then you need: cable clutch linkage kit.
If you use T5, it may require shortening your driveshaft. After obtaining measurements, its best to let a professional driveshaft do the work and rebalance it.
If you use the late model approach, you'll be using the clutch section from the late model car. Hence, you use conversion flywheel, fork, throwout bearing, diaphragm clutch.
If you use the early model approach, you'l be using the clutch section from the early model car. Hence you use early flywheel, fork, throwout bearing, long-style clutch.
Note: late model flywheels are 50 oz-in and cannot be used with your early 302. Therefore you must use a 28 oz-in aftermarket flywheel that accepts diaphragm clutches. Ram Automotive makes these as do others.
Note: early model flywheels are 28 oz-in and are useable with your 302 but only accept long-style clutches.
Exceptions: aftermarket flywheels are almost always drilled to accept early or late clutches. You can also drill an early flywheel to accept a late clutch or drill a late flywheel to accept and early clutch. The main thing is to wind up with the correct imbalance and have a new surface for the clutch plate. Salvage or used flywheels should be resurfaced prior to re-use.
There is one other configuration possible: this uses the '69-'73 351w 164 tooth bell housing, flywheel and starter. This choice works well and supports 11" clutches. Generally, this approach is like the early bell housing approach in that its best used with z-bar clutch linkage.
This may seem confusing...fact is there are combinations among the above so many configurations are possible. These odd combinations take a bit of ingenuity to iron out difficulties. I've only outlined the situations I consider solid engineering.
Jeff has posted allot of great info! My family put a tremic into my bro's 67, we picked up a manual brake pedal and a clutch pedal, a 69 351W flywheel, a lakewood scatter shield and a hydrolic clutch kit from Widsor Fox
Great post Jeff65, and thanks for the correction on the 157 tooth flywheel. I would like to add that the hydraulic clutch conversion works really well and is available for either the early style or the late style bellhousing. My 68 has the hydraulic after trying to use the stock z-bar and an abortive attempt to use the cable clutch conversion. It is slightly more expensive than the cable conversion but a lot easier to install.
__________________
Mustang Chuck
Team Manager SCCA Mustang #05,
700HP, 310CID 5Spd Jerico, 97 body & my own 68 Stang Trans Am replica
The T5 on a 289 works the same as the 302. The differences between the two is the 302 has a slightly taller deck and a longer stroke. Bolt holes for the bell housing are the same.
__________________
Mustang Chuck
Team Manager SCCA Mustang #05,
700HP, 310CID 5Spd Jerico, 97 body & my own 68 Stang Trans Am replica
Several short additions to converting to a manual trans. I did this years ago by just swapping parts from an old 67 including the flywheel( automatics have a flex plate which will not work with a manual) and the pedals. there are better but more expensive options now. The way I just re-did it is the best. buy a ford motorsport t-5 or a tremec. if your engine is a late model it is externally balanced, if you are rebuilding it I would reccomend having it internally balanced with the flywheel and harmonic balancer. use the hydraulic clutch conversion from JMC and I would reccomend Perogie enterprises for the pedals they even have the pedal supports with the roller bearings in them. (wish I would have gotten that) then add an aluminum driveshaft from mustangs plus and everything will fit perfectly.
Originally posted by allmightythor hey, how about a T-5 on a 289 is it the same way? I plan on converting it to a 331 stroker, would the T-5 still be a good choice tranny?
I would say "no" its not the best choice. Why? T5-Z is the toughest of the T5 world class series BW-Tremec trannies. It is rated at 330 ft-lb torque capacity. For 289/302 engines (regardless of horsepower) torque is stroke limited to about 300 ft-lbs across the entire torque-hp curve. Adding a stroker kit to get 331 or 347 gives more torque (that's what you want when paying for a stroker kit). In adding stroke and torque you surpass the T5's handling capability. Thus, you need a stronger tranny. Tremec has what you need in a 3550 or TKO. This will require a bit of transmission tunnel rework but its worth it considering you will have a robust tranny behind your stroker 302. Bottom line here is pick the tranny that best suits your engine and not simply install anything because its convenient and cheap. Yes, 3550 or TKO is a few hundred more than the T5-Z. Note: if you break a T5, you've not saved a penny, rather you've spent more than what it would've cost to install the TKO in the first place.
Auto to manual conversion 
