[Splank6]

So im just wondering any tips fro removing paint off the interior of the the metal, im not media blasting or acid dipping. Chemicals work? and waht grit sandpaper. And when sanding how much do i need to get off???

[65 Fastaback]

Hi,

I'm about to tackle the same thing. In July, my car will be dismantled and
restoration on the underbody will begin. The guy doing the work -
(local guy who has been restoring classic Mustangs for over 35 years) said I could save some money doing a few things myself - such as stripping the areas of concern within the interior - dash board and A pillars.

Dash board: Hand sand only using no more than 180 grit sand paper.
A pillars: A wire wheel on an electric drill - this will remove the rusty scale.

I'm having the floors replaced so I can't suggest what to use there.

Good Luck.

[omario_101]

when i restored my interior i tried using a wire wheel and chemical stripper on the doors. i went light on the wire wheel, as i didn't want to lose the texture of the panels. the chemical stripper works good but you have to be patient as it does take awhile and it is hard to get the paint out of the grooves, which is where the wire wheel comes in. for the dash, and all the other pieces (glovebox, ashtry, etc.) i simply sanded them down to the factory paint (it was painted red in the past) until it was smooth, primered, and repainted and it looks great. Obviously it looks best if you take the time to remove all the pieces from the car rather than painting in place like the previous owner did to my car.

[Knightnsd]

I used a paint stripper that came in a can from Kragen or Pep boys. It worked great but mask off anything you do not want to strip and wear gloves/glasses stuff burns.

[dostres90806]

i also want to do this my 68 i wanna repaint the dash the metal part how do i do it and what kind of primer and paint do i use so i sand it down or just paint stripper do i have to add a clearcoat any help would be appreciated

[68coupe&06GT]

I bought an adjustable speed orbital sander from Home Depot. Get a real fine grit, 220 or so to start, and set it on a low speed and took my time. I took mine down to the bare metal, primed it and then wet sanded by hand with 400 grit. Then I painted. I liiiike!

[Veronica]

Hello. I've done this to certainly dozens, and possibly a couple hundred, cars and here's what I've found to work best. First, you definitely do NOT want to do any sanding on the doors. It will wipe out the grain of the metal. On the dash, go ahead and remove the instrument bezel, glove box door, lighter and all of the switches. It really doesn't take very long and the results will be sooooo much better than if you mask around the stuff. Remove the dash pad. On this, you must be very, very careful or you will end up having to buy a new dash pad. Remove all of the attaching screws and trim pieces holding it on and slowly start wiggling it around until you feel it pop loose.If you are careful and take your time, and don't get in a hurry this isn't that difficult to do successfuly. Remove the door panels, roll the windows down, cover the holes in the door so that the paint doesn't get on the glass and be sure to cover the outside of the door with something so that the overspray mist won't settle down and stick to the outside paint. On the dash you can use an orbital sander with some fine grit paper. I started out with 600 to knock the worst of it off and finished it with 1000 grit. On the doors and rear quarter trim panels, depending on the year model and body style, I would start out by scraping the worst of it off with a putty knife. Don't get all 'manly' on it. Start at one corner of the door and progress around it gently scraping the stuff off, not trying to get it all off, just the heaviest part of it, so you don't scratch up the metal of the door. Then come back with some paper towels and lacquer thinner and wipe the door clean. You will probably be wanting to get some heavy rubber gloves, since most peolple's hands aren't really used to that stuff and it will kind of sting and burn and stuff. Don't use those cheap surgical type gloves because the lacquer thinner will dissolve them very quickly. After you get all of the paint off like that, very carefully spray down the door with carb cleaner, starting at the top and working your way downward. Again, be very, very careful because if the tiniest of speckles of the carb cleaner gets on the exterior paint, you won't have any paint on that spot. If you take your time and bear in mind that this is your car and it's something that you only have to get right once, it isn't really a big deal at all to get very good results. Here's what my car looks like. The door might look black, but it's actually the same color as the dash. Interior code 82.

[dostres90806]

What kind of paint did you use and did u use any primer

[Veronica]

Hi again. Yes, I did prime it. The paint that I used was a semi gloss acrylic enamel with an air compressor and the trusty Binks #7. If you are just doing your car, you probably won't be wanting to spend the money needed to get all of the equipment necessary for painting a car. For a black interior, a Krylon semi-gloss black will be just fine. Prime it with a krylon red oxide and then use the semi-gloss. You should be able to get a very nice finish. This also has the advantage of being something that's easy to match up if it gets scratched or something. For the other colors, most venders of vintage mustang parts carry rattle can paints for the different colors. Hope that helps.

[dostres90806]

ok I got the primer and the krylon black do I need to use any clear coat and do I need to do any wet sanding thanks for the help

[dostres90806]

man I just primered it and painted it black but stuff got in it dust feel on it is there a way to remove it

[jlp66stang]

Scuff pads work good too, especially if you are just trying to get the loose paint off. Wipe it down with lacquer thinner and tack rag before you paint. Don't try to do it in one coat. It's not supposed to be a high gloss finish on the interior.

[Veronica]

Hi again. Sounds like you need to remove the paint and try again. Try to determine the source of the crud that got in the paint and take steps to avoid having that happen again. When you get the paint to lay down right, you don't want to do any wet sanding on it and you definitely don't want to clear coat it. As has already been stated, it isn't supposed to be super glossy, and, even though one might think the shinier, the better, gloss actually looks quite lame on the interior.

[Cobra6]

I have done a few of these.........

As far as removing the paint from the doors, it is a pain any way you go about it. I have had the best results using a paint stripper (aircraft stripper, zip-n-strip or something similar).
As far as removing the paint from the grooves in the patterns on the doors, I use very fine steel wool (0 - 000) with the stripper to get all the paint out of the grooves. It usually cleans up pretty well on the second coat of stripper - unless your door panels have been painted several times.

Also, I never use primer on the door panels with the lacquer interior paint, unless I have a particulary nasty area where someone has rested a sweaty arm there for 100,000 miles or so. In that case I use a self etching primer (gray) to cover the surface before I paint it. This prevents the lacquer from peeling if their is oil or something in the panel that would othewise prevent the paint from adhering well.

[dostres90806]

I just did my glove box door but not satisfied I use the krylon primer and the krylon black but the glovebox has tons of scratches already and I haven't installed. Any help I'm scared that paint is just scatch up to easy