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Old 06-11-2006   #1 (permalink)
OpheliasWings is offline Rookie

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Red face Help with 1966 ford mustang automatic transmission

Hi, I am new to the forum and I have a few quick questions regarding rebuilding an automatic transmission on a 1966 Ford Mustang. We purchased the car about a year or so ago and at that time it had had the transmission rebuilt and adjusted. We think that the transmission was adjusted wrong due to trouble with it slamming when shifting gears and it's now burning tranmission fluid as well as leaking from the pan. We plan to rebuild the tranmission ourselves since we can't afford to pay an expensive shop to do it. So I need to know how we find out what type of tranmission we have and whether we should purchase a rebuild kit or a complete overhaul kit with the plates not just the gaskets. Also can anyone suggest a good manual to use to help in the rebuild process? Thanks so much for the help.

Sonseria
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Old 06-11-2006   #2 (permalink)
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Hmm....I think all these issues have a perfectly good explanation, I dont think theres anything much wrong with it.

It's impossible for the transmission itself to be burning fluid. I'd suspect either the pan is leaking on the exhaust or the vaccuum modulator is bad and sucking up ATF and blowing it out the exhaust. Fixing the pan leak may kill 2 birds with one stone but if it doesnt the modulator is only $15 at Pepboys/Kragen/Autozone and bolts on.

Vaccum modulator problems could explain the hard shifting as well. Also it could have a shift kit in it to firm up the shifts, if its not a modulator problem.

I always check the cheap stuff first, it'd be a shame if it got rebuilt for no reason.
HTH
--Kyle
PS: The tin trans pans usually get bent out of shape by people overtighening the bolts. You can USUALLY straighten them out, but its a pain and theres no gaurntees.

A sure fix is a cast aluminum pan, they wont distort $100 form summit racing
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Old 06-12-2006   #3 (permalink)
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Maybe he means the fluid in the trans is burned?

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Old 06-13-2006   #4 (permalink)
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Red face transmission problems

Hi, actually I'm a she, just to let you know The problem that we're having with the transmission is that it's leaking a ton of fluid from underneath from the pan so we've gotten a new rubber gasket to fit around the pan, but we haven't installed it yet. As far as the fluid burning when we check the fluid it's really dark almost black and we can smell it burning when the car is running. This may be from it leaking underneath the car. I am by no means a mechanic so we're just trying to find out what may be going on with the tranny before we rip it out and rebuild it. It has shifted hard since we've had the car, mainly in reverse and putting it into drive makes the transmission slam likes it's really tight and it's having a hard time shifting. So if anyone has any advice I'd love to hear from you. Thanks so much.

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Old 06-15-2006   #5 (permalink)
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I have to agree with 5.0 in a 66.
Does the transmission slip while shifting between gears? Does the RPM or engine rev up at all between gear changes while your going down the road?
The only way the transmission fluid is going to get almost black and smell like is burnt (the fluid on the dipstick, smell that. NOT the odder your smelling while the engine is running) is if the clutch packs are slipping and/or its been over heated really bad.
I wonder if this slamming your hearing while going into reverse and drive is a broken motor mount, transmission mount, a universal joint, or even something as simple as the idle being adjusted to high causing it to clunk while coming out of park and into a gear. Check that stuff out to before you tear out the transmission.
Get someone to help you check the engine mounts. Have the car running with the hood open. Have someone stand next to the car (not in front of). While you hold the brake pedal down, put it into drive and gently give it some gas. If you see the motor climb upwards on one side you have a broken mount. Do the same thing with reverse gear. The pressure will be on the opposite mount. Turn off the car now. You will have to crawl under the car to check the u joints, and trans mount. Try to wiggle or twist the joints. Use something to give yourself some leverage if you have to. You shouldn't have any movement.
The car should idle around 700rpms while in gear and the brakes being applied. Much higher and you can start having problems.
How does the transmission act while going down the road just driving it normally? Under full throttle through a couple shifts?
Don't tear the transmission out yet! Get the leaks taken care of first. You might as well replace the filter since you are going to have the pan off it.
Let us know what you find out.
I can find you the exact specs for adjusting the bands in the trans, and the kick down linkage. If you need it
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Old 07-09-2006   #6 (permalink)
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Hi, sorry for not getting back sooner. We tried changing out the gasket and the filter on the pan to no avail. After trying 3 gaskets with the leak coming from the same area each time we tried replacing the transmission pan. Instead of it leaking from the front left corner now it's leaking from the bolt holes and towards the middle of the front of the pan. As far as the shifting goes, it tends to slam hard when you're putting it into reverse and into drive from neutral. When you're driving it seems like the gears are sticking and it doesn't want to shift up until you get to about 45-50 miles then it shifts, sometimes hard, sometimes not, but it makes it sound as though you're over rev'ing it because it doesn't want to shift. As far as the smell and the dark fluid we haven't noticed it lately, but then again we haven't been driving the car much lately either. We've been losing a lot of fluid with it leaking and can't seem to get the leak to stop. We tried some stop leak and it seemed to slow it down slightly, but it's still leaking. If there is a way to repair it without ripping out the tranny we're all for that. I'm looking for any advice we can get. Thanks so much.

Sonseria
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Old 07-10-2006   #7 (permalink)
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If it's shifting late, the modulator is bad, or disconnected from vacuum.
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Old 07-11-2006   #8 (permalink)
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When you purchased the gasket did the parts store tell what thransmission you have, C4? I suggest purchasing a service manual for what transmission you have and Eastwoodco.com has videos on rebuilding transmission, this might help you understand the auto transmission so you can figure out what is wrong. As for the leak are you over tighning the pan bolts? They should be about 15lbs of torque. You don't want to squeeze the gasket out. Fel-pro gaskets have metal washers that keep you from over tighning.
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