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Classic Mustangs Tech Forum

Technical discussions specific to 1964-1967, 1968-1970, and 1971-1973 Classic Mustang. Discuss all tech related to in-line six cylinder and V8 powered Vintage Mustangs here.

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Unread 12-31-2013   #1 (permalink)
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Default Neutral safety switch

My back up lights dont work so i put new back up light housing and bulbs still wont turn on so i replaced all my fuses still no back up lights i put new neutral safety switch still no back up lights car turns on fine in park and neutral just no backup lights i also put car on accessory and put in reverse test lighted the plug on neutral safety switch no juice so is there a certain way to adjust new switch i installed even though car starts fine in park and neutral anybody have ideas on what else i can do.

1968 302 c-4 tranny
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Unread 01-01-2014   #2 (permalink)
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If you have no power at the switch, I'm wondering if the fuse is blown. It is not uncommon for someone to put the wrong bulb(s) in the sockets. I don't recall the bulb numbers, but the correct bulb has two terminals on the bottom. If you put one in that just has one terminal it will short across the two socket terminals and blow the fuse. I can get more info, but suspect other responders will supply it.
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Unread 01-01-2014   #3 (permalink)
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I checked the bulbs are new and correct and all my fuses are good is there suppose to b power at harness on firewall when car is in reverse because theres not can adjusting switch make power turn on, cuase car turns on in park and neutral just no power at harness when in reverse.
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Unread 01-01-2014   #4 (permalink)
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Question if 1 back up housing say is bad would that cause the other side to not work as well. Or are they independent .
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Unread 01-01-2014   #5 (permalink)
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Hello. The two back up light housings work independent of each other. You can unplug the neutral safety switch at the firewall and check with a volt meter to see if one of the black wires with a red stripe is showing power with the key in the 'On' position. If yes, and there are no obvious problems with wires going to the neutral safety switch, like maybe they are melted and stuck to the exhaust, then I would connect one of the black/red wires, turn the key on, put the car in reverse and see if the other black/red wire showed power. If no, you need a new switch. If yes, there is probably a short in the black/red wire that winds it's way back to the trunk area.
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Unread 01-01-2014   #6 (permalink)
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I put car on and in reverse no power at plug that connects to firewall this switch is brand new i literally recieved it monday and installed it yesterday car turns on fine.
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Unread 01-01-2014   #7 (permalink)
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Hi again. This means that your problem is behind the dash, which will require pulling the instrument cluster out. That is whole lot easier to do if you move the heater controls out enough to get your hand back there to disconnect the speedometer cable. If the fuse shows that it is in fact getting power and is not blown, then the problem is between the fuse and the firewall. You'll have to go point to point in steps until you find the break in the flow.
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Unread 01-01-2014   #8 (permalink)
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Any idea where wires go to from firewall to under dash?
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Unread 01-01-2014   #9 (permalink)
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Hi again. On your car there should be a red wire coming out of the back of the fuse box from the accessory fuse. If you follow that wire for about 16 inches or so, you'll see one of those big black splice thingies that Ford loved so dearly. Not counting the red wire, there should be 5 other wires coming out of that splice. One of those is black with a red stripe. That one goes through the firewall and is plugged into the neutral safety switch harness. Another black/red wire comes from the neutral safety switch harness, comes back through the firewall, returning to the underdash area, goes a pretty good ways and terminates at a clear plastic two-prong female connector. On the other prong there will be two wires going into it, but, the single wire at that connector is the black/red wire that then goes to the trunk area. Power goes from the accessory fuse to that splice thingy, through the firewall to the neutral safety switch, back through the firewall to the two prong connector, and then back to the lights.

Assuming once again that the fuse is getting power, and that it is not blown, so that power is actually leaving the fuse box along that red wire, my first guess at where the problem is would be that splice. The good news is that there is less than 3 feet of wire between the fuse box and the firewall connector, but, the bad news is that most of it is wrapped with a bunch of other stuff and you can't find it without unwrapping a little bit of the harness, and space is not exactly abundant in there.
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